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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. chris45

    chris45 Senior member

    Messages:
    186
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2013
    Location:
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Just picked up a pair of Ralph Lauren Black Label Anthony Wool Pants (solid navy)

    They are tagged 28 in the waist and fit great -- some pictures I see have cuffs, some don't. I'm just curious on thoughts of cuff with my height.

    I, along with another opinion I've got, say to do a 1.75" cuff .. My height is 5'6" so just making sure that is the right direction.

    I don't mind breaking rules as long as it looks good -- and I'm young =]
     
  2. aglose

    aglose Senior member

    Messages:
    858
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2013
    Location:
    Colorado, USA
    
    Noob here to chime in on this. I'm nineteen and I love cuffed pants. Not huge cuffs but an inch and a half or so adds a certain level of class to a fit IMO.
     
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    No right or wrong regarding cuffs. Go with your own preference to cuff or not and how wide of cuffs you like.

    Consider how you like the trouser opening to fall on your shoe. It is easier to slant plain bottom hems to lay over the shoe in a nicer way than most tailors can when making cuffs.
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006

    All depends on who you now that is capable and willing to alter it. hard to tell if it's worth it only seeing one picture of the back.
     
  5. Stevey6404

    Stevey6404 Member

    Messages:
    12
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2012
    Hey guys!

    Just wondering if anyone could quickly help me solve this small problem.
    Bought a new suit and the sleeves and cuffs were a little too wide for my liking so I had a tailor reduce the width using one of my better suit as guide. Realised after I came home that there's a lot of bunching around the places she cut/altered (even after steaming it). Just wondering if anyone could offer some advice as to how I can fix it and can it easily be fixed at a tailor? Is it because the way she stitched it up is wrong or something?

    By the way, Both suits are from the same MTM online company.

    Thanks so much in advance!

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    Last edited: Jun 21, 2014
  6. olseno

    olseno Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    54
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2009
    Just purchased this unstructured cotton sport coat and as expected, the sleeves need shortening. Even though the buttons on the sleeves are non-functioning, I'm concerned that if the sleeves are hemmed to a proper length (see pic #2), I'll be left with an awkwardly placed single button on each sleeve

    Any comments/suggestions would be much appreciated.


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  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
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    Mar 16, 2006
    Do you think she tapered the sleeve on the inseam ? YOU NEVER DO THAT! The sleeve is only adjusted on the out seam which means they should remake the sleeve vent and also taper the lining.
    If it is taken in on the inseam and the extra cloth is cut out, you have very limited options. Only thing to do then is to open the seam and properly stretch the top sleeve and fit it to the under sleeve. There is some technique required to get the sleeve inseam to hang well

    Steaming made it worse.YOU SHOULD NEVER DO THAT! That area is very sensitive to steaming due to the sewing in of fullness on the top sleeve.

    Best idea is to use a someone, if you can, who knows how a garment is made or at the very least understands altering men's garments. Assuming this person is more familiar with sewing for women, comparing sewing for women and sewing for men, it's apples and oranges.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2014
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    There is no good way around this unless you remove the sleeves and shorten them from the top. The sleeve buttonholes are imitation and not cut thru so the stitching can be removed but the old stitch marks where the buttonholes are sewn will probably remain due to the nature of cotton and the tightness of the stitching. If you go this route you will still have to accept that the placket will be very short and look odd. They will be different lengths if the sleeves need to be shortened different amounts. Shortening from the top will cost more but not compromise the styling details. Will cost more and require a tailor wiling to do the extra work. There is a limit to how much can be shortened at the top of the sleeve related to how tapered the sleeve is
     
  9. Stevey6404

    Stevey6404 Member

    Messages:
    12
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2012
    Quote:Thanks for the quick reply Despos.

    Just had a look inside and it does seem she tapered it on the inseam.
    I felt around underneath the white cloth and it seems the original sleeve is still there - as if she just cut the sleeve, folded it in and sewed. I guess I still might have some luck with it?



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    Last edited: Jun 21, 2014
  10. NeedStyleHelp

    NeedStyleHelp Senior member

    Messages:
    208
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto
    What are your thoughts on the hole (first button from the top)? Easily fixed, or not worth the trouble?

    [​IMG]
     
  11. danne888

    danne888 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    61
    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2012
    I have an oppurtunity to buy an Belvest suit at a great price, its second hand and i have a few questions about the fit. Im wondering if the shoulders are too wide, what do you guys think? The arms also are too short and need to be lenghtended and it has to be taken in over the shoulderblades.

    Thank you for your help!

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    Last edited: Jun 23, 2014
  12. bbob2013

    bbob2013 Senior member

    Messages:
    102
    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Hey folks,

    Could really use some advice on optimizing my fit. I am sending this shirt and chino out for replication with some modifications. The areas I'm not happy with are highlighted, mainly arms front and back. Also, my biggest gripe, the back (particularly lower back).

    The pants, need to be longer and bigger lower leg openings, my biggest area of concern is the seat.

    My plan of attack:
    Shirt: adjust for sloping shoulders (not accounted for in pics below). Decrease back waist by 1.0''

    Pants: besides increase inseam and leg openings I have no idea what to do about the seat. It feel like the back rise might be too much, but I fear that might induce the wedge...

    Any and all thoughts are welcomed and MUCH appreciated.

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  13. suchdoge

    suchdoge Member

    Messages:
    18
    Joined:
    May 4, 2014
    Hi,

    Would very much like some suggestions with a jacket.

    I recently tried a PRL jacket in 40R/50R (pics). Which I thought was a little too short, looked good with jeans but not with chinos.
    Anyway, PRL released the (as far as I can see) same jacket but with a different name, and the ability to order it in Long (yay!).

    So, judging by these pictures and the measurements of the jacket in the pictures, and the measurements of the long version, would you please estimate if the Long jacket would fit well? (be long enough and so on), I do not necessarily require the jacket to fulfill all classic fit requirements (such as overall length of jacket to reach the knuckle and so on), whats important is just that it will look good.

    This post will be quite long, but I would really really appreciate if someone (preferably more than one) would do their best to give some suggestions on this.

    Jacket in 40R/50R:
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    With jeans and oxford shirt:
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    Measurements of the jacket in the pics (measured like the drawing below):
    A Sleeve: 17.3"
    B Chest around: 40.9" (~20.5")
    C Waist around: 37.8" (~19")
    D Length: 29.1"
    E Shoulders: 18.5"
    [​IMG]

    The New PRL jacket in Long have the following measurements (the sleeve is obviously not measured the exact same way):

    • Chest: (40 Long) 20.5 inches (42 Long) 21.5 inches (44 Long) 21.5 inches

    • Shoulder to Shoulder: (40 Long) 18 inches (42 Long) 18.5 inches (44 Long) 19 inches

    • Collar to Hem: (40 Long) 30 inches (42 Long) 30.5 inches (44 Long) 31 inches

    • Sleeve Length: (40 Long) 25.5 inches (42 Long) 25.5 inches (44 Long) 26 inches

    • Waist: (40 Long) 18.5 inches (42 Long) 19.5 inches (44 Long) 20 inches

    So, do you believe the new version in Long will work? If so what size? I thought that maybe I could take the 42 Long and take in a little on the waist, to gain as much length on the jacket as possible?

    So basically what size should I take and how will it look and fit?


    Terribly sorry for the long post. My biggest thanks to the ones who take their time to help me out!

    Thank you!
     
  14. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

    Messages:
    4,536
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    A Long should do. A 41L might fit better than an even size. The natural cut of the pictured jacket is so unflattering on the shoulders that PRL probably should be ruled out.
     
  15. suchdoge

    suchdoge Member

    Messages:
    18
    Joined:
    May 4, 2014
    

    Thank you for your answer. It doesnt come in uneven sizes, such as 41, but im leaning towards picking the 42L and if the chest or waist is a little too big I will let a tailor take that in.




    "The natural cut of the pictured jacket is so unflattering on the shoulders that PRL probably should be ruled out."

    I didnt understand this last part, what do you mean?
     
  16. tfrey

    tfrey New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    Hi,

    it would be terrific if someone could critique my shirt I received from Proper Cloth.

    Here are my thoughts on it:

    • I always seem to have this problem that the shirt billows out above the waistband instead of laying flat - how would you correct that?
    • Waist size - thinking about going slightly wider so the seat opens a bit more as well?
    • Sleeve seems ok but forearm is slightly tight - thinking about increasing sleeve by 0.5"
    • I feel like there's a little much excess fabric in the mid-section back - how would one correct that?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thanks a lot for any feedback!
     
  17. NickCarraway

    NickCarraway Senior member

    Messages:
    1,053
    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2014
    Hello all! My brother of very similar build to myself is gifting/thrifting me a fair amount of tailored goodness. I'd appreciate any feedback on how I might be able to tweak this blue dress shirt, grey dress trousers, and sportcoat:

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

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    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  18. Macs

    Macs Senior member

    Messages:
    297
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2013
    Location:
    Switzerland
    Hallo, I have a general question on pant fit:

    I have a quite prominent seat (don't know if it is a tilt issue or just the way my gluteus are), the pants fit me well but i have some sort of "waves" of fabric just below the waistband on the back.
    How will I reduce this?

    Another question is, if I increase the total length of the pant, keeping the inseam as it is and keeping the front and back rise as they are, what will I get?
     
  19. ScottMC

    ScottMC Senior member

    Messages:
    650
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2013
    Is this jacket too small? I see the pulling at the front button, but it seems minimal and correctable. Any input would be appreciated.
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  20. bklyndoc12

    bklyndoc12 Active Member

    Messages:
    29
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2013
    Hello everyone. I was hoping for some feedback on this OTR cotton blazer I picked up for a steal. It seems to fit my shoulders better than most OTR jackets, with minimal dimpling. I think it may be a tad too tight in the waist area. Do you think it is worth working with?

    [​IMG]

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