The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Naf Nasitra

    Naf Nasitra Senior member

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    I recently got a MTM shirt that has the following problem around the chest (FYI: This is n't my picture. I'm without a camera at the mome,t but this picture illustrates exactly what's going on). There seems to be extra fabric at the armpits & there's this unsightly fold on the chest. Is this becasue the armholes are too low? The chest too wide?

    [​IMG]
     


  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why do some check jackets have unaligned checks at the sides while some are aligned ?

    Mr.Despos explained some time back why these unaligned checks were acceptable when I posted the pics of this SC which my tailor made me and some of this would happen in all jackets and the degree to which it happens depends on several factors one of which is the tailor's skill.

    But, in this second SC, the checks are (nearly) perfectly aligned. So, whats the difference in cutting ? what do I need to tell my tailor if I want to have aligned checks ? Or is this a SF thing which is no big deal IRL and I should just forget it ?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG][
    /quote]

    The mismatch is caused by the tailor cutting a wedge shaped "dart" running parallel to the hem of the jacket, under the patch pocket. It is done on almost every jacket to give a little form/shape over the stomach, make the front long and the side short, (tailor speak). It also helps to pull the fronts down over your stomach and make the fronts fall closer to the body and not flare out. The other jacket matches because this dart was not cut out. If you don't cut the dart you have to balance the jacket differently to compensate for not cutting the dart. I wouldn't compromise a better fir for pattern matching in this case. When you have a big stomach or erect posture it is beneficial to cut this dart. Stooped posture with flat stomach there is less need for this.
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Some or most of the pulling is related to your low shoulder. Un button the jacket and the right front will hang lower than the left and you will see the buttonhole and the button are at different heights to each other. Move the button for a quick fix. If you pad the shoulder you will have to adjust again.
     


  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This shirt is very trim, don't see what the problem is and showing a picture of someone else won't help to answer your question.
     


  5. rsuhandy

    rsuhandy Senior member

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    Hello,

    Just got a new 3-piece and was wondering how to alter it to make it fit better.
    I would especially like feedback on how to clean up the back and the back of the sleeves (if possible)
    Thanks in advance :D

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     


  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Jacket requires major surgery and this type of work needs to be done by an experienced tailor. Experienced in cutting, fitting and sewing. The shoulder needs to be remade to accommodate your blades, this gets rid of the roll of cloth under the collar on the back. The back blades need to be reduced and the shoulder narrowed. Sleeves need to be recut to fit the shape of the armhole to clean up all the wrinkles. You have a low right shoulder and if you are having all this done they can cut for the low shoulder but you also need the right chest reduced on the front. Very common to be a bit smaller on the low shoulder side. Sleeves are too short. Trouser has the ubiquitous long back and needs to be recut. I would look for other brands that fit you better. This is too much work to do and the success of altering is totally dependent on the skill of the tailor.
     


  7. gt215

    gt215 New Member

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    I recently purchased three jackets for fairly decent deals from others. I am fairly new to how they should fit, so any help is much appreciated. Sorry for the random combos, also any critique on the trouser fit, if necessary, is welcome. After looking at all of these form the pictures, it's clear my shirt sleeve length is too short.

    1. Has been tailored before I got it. Is the bunching on the arms fixable? Other issues?
    [​IMG]

    2. Tailored for someone else as well, same issue on the arms.
    [​IMG]

    3. This one doesn't appear to have much, but what I didn't notice prior to the pictures was that the lining appears to be peaking through at the back, is this an easy fix? Other critiques?
    [​IMG]

    Thanks so much for this thread, I've started to notice things I didn't know were problems!
     


  8. GradSchooler

    GradSchooler Senior member

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    Hoping I can get some advice on tailoring a Tom Ford suit. In order to get the right fit in the shoulders, I need to go up to a 58/48 R. However, my chest is a 42 and this leaves quite a bit of extra space. If the shoulders fit right, can the rest of the suit be tailored to fit or is that just too much of a difference?
     


  9. snowboardpunk

    snowboardpunk Senior member

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    hey guys im trying to upload pictures of my hugo suit. ive had it for about half a year now but i want to get more of a professional to look at it, but i cant get a good picture with good lighting... so im wondering does anyone know a good tailor i can go to in the portland, oregon metro area that i can take it too? the pants just dont look right.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2011


  10. Stich That

    Stich That New Member

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    Your left shoulder is slightly lower than right. In order to fix that you would have to have your tailor add a small amount of shoulder pad. Just by looking at the photo, the number one thing that I would suggest is for you to have a raise back to get rid of all that extra material under your collar.
     


  11. Stich That

    Stich That New Member

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    The most important is the shoulder fit. The rest can be taken in, however, I would suggest that you try a different cut.
     


  12. harryk387

    harryk387 Member

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  13. miketcooper

    miketcooper Active Member

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    Hello

    Would adding a button hole mid roll to a 2 button sports coat to make it a 3 roll 2.5 (to add some visual interest to a nice but slightly pedestrian coat) be inherently wrong or stupid? Anything in the construction of a half fused jacket to make this not advisable?

    (obviously the button hole facing in the opposite direction to the other 2 and the corresponding button not sewn all the way through)

    Thanks and sorry in advance if this has been raised and shot down several times over, but a search turned out nothing.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2011


  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    if the lapel naturally rolls higher , it could work.
    but matching the buttonhole to the others is chancy.
     


  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The top buttonhole requires a buttonhole be made on both sides of the facing. You make one buttonhole on one side and another on the other side.

    And what atailor said. You will probably have to take out the existing buttonholes and have them made with the same thread so all the buttonholes match.

    The lapel won't roll as nicely as before as the buttonhole is a bit stiff.
     


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