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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,925
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    Apr 17, 2013
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    What I meant was that, if you shorten it from the bottom, to move everything up (pockets, etc.) in proportion, you would have to, then, disassemble most, or all, the jacket anyway, if it's possible at all. It's the combination of both shortening from the bottom, and attempting to raise the jacket's features, that I meant to say would not be worth the effort.

    I can see that my post did not really make that clear.
     
  2. AdamWill

    AdamWill Well-Known Member

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    Mar 7, 2012
    and the other bit that makes it unclear is that 'shortening from the top' involves doing pretty much all the same stuff anyway :) I can see what you meant, but I can also see why despos thought it was garbage.
     
  3. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,925
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2013
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    Yes - fortunately Despos was here to give a correct response to the question.
     
  4. markfjh

    markfjh Well-Known Member

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    79
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    Mar 30, 2014
    Location:
    Singapore
    Hi guys,

    My first MTM suit from CYC Custom Shop in Singapore.

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    My apologies for the not-so-straight tie clip!

    I've made a couple of shirts from CYC before and always enjoy the shirts that they make for me. This is my first suit form them, and I have to say that I think they are better at shirt making than suit making. Just a feeling I get.
     
  5. AdamWill

    AdamWill Well-Known Member

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    Mar 7, 2012
    tailors won't be able to judge the pants correctly with you in bare feet, you need to wear some (appropriate) shoes.
     
  6. Jeff Nguyen

    Jeff Nguyen Member

    Messages:
    5
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    Feb 13, 2012
    I bought a Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald suit on ebay based on listed measurements. I know the trousers and jacket sleeves need to be shortened, but I am unsure about the rest of the fit. What do you all think? Also, excuse the oxford shirt and loafers, as I am traveling for work, and don't have anything else to wear with the suit right now. https://imgur.com/a/LCV8Z

    Thanks!
     
  7. ALange

    ALange Active Member

    Messages:
    42
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    Apr 3, 2014
    Took a shot at my first MTM suit and feel that things look off. Im going to bring it back to the shop for alterations but was hoping to get some feedback as to what I should request. In my (unexperienced) opinion the button stance and arm holes are too high and the shoulders are too wide. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.[​IMG]
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  8. ShawnBC

    ShawnBC Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,504
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2014
    Location:
    Québec, Canada
    Hi guys!

    I have received my Suit Supply tuxedo(s) this afternoon (BTW excellent turnaround time, I ordered from Suit Supply on Wednesday April 2nd and received my order this afternoon - Friday April 4th) and would like your input.

    Now, keep in mind that I am not your average lean/fit #menswear enthusiast, therefore I am a little harder to fit, be it in office clothing or casual attire. For the record, I'm 6' and currently 245lbs and trying to lose some, with a 47" chest. I lost 23lbs since January 1st and plan on losing 10lbs more until my wedding which is planned on July 12th of this year.

    This is my first order with Suit Supply, so I used both their Size Advisor and Measurement page to guide my purchase. I order the tuxedo in 46R and 48R.

    This is the 48R:

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    Obviously, I would need to alter the trouser length, so please excuse the messy trouser cuff/bad drape. Please note that this is the only white shirt I had and not the tuxedo shirt I'll wear for the wedding, I haven't received it yet. Also note that this is the first time I'm wearing a self-tied bow tie (also from Suit Supply) so give me chance to improve!

    What I think is good:

    - Shoulder width seems fine, there is no (or minimal) shoulder divots, which I usually something I have problems with;
    - Sleeve pitch seems adequate from the side;
    - No collar/chest gap;
    - Quarters are closed enough that it doesn't show some shirt below the button;
    - Trousers feel great and sit at the correct height;
    - Good range of motion without the feeling of pulling;
    - Jacket is long enough (maybe 0,5" short but I can live with it).

    What I'm not so sure about or I don't appreciate:

    - There is some pulling between the shoulder blades and there's sometimes a crease going over the back of the lapel/collar (which I get with all of my jackets - posture related?);
    - Back looks a little bit messy (might be less apparent if the vents were let open?);
    - There are some crumpling on the sleeves in the front and upper back;
    - Jacket looks boxy (but I think this is inevitable given my proportions);
    - Trousers are a little bit tight below the seat which leads to some visual pulling (although I feel great in them);

    Given that I should (there's always a possibility I won't, but chances are I will) be 10-15lbs lighter on my wedding day, the 48R should show less pulling in some places, notably under the seat (back thighs) and lower back/love handles region. I might even be able to have a tailor take the waist in a little bit, therefore diminishing the boxy appearance.

    As opposed to the 46R:

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    Although I like the fact that is looks less boxy and the shoulders look great, it is noticeably too snug almost everywhere. I'm going to return this one. Please excuse the OCBD, I didn't think of putting on a proper shirt for the tryout.

    Please excuse my ugly mug and let me know what you think.

    P.S.: I'm going to post a duplicate of this post in the Suit Supply thread to receive further comments and critics.
     
  9. GloStiX

    GloStiX Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    199
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2008
    Very specific question for the experts here:

    Jacket has too much skirt flare.
    Red = problem area, gap between hip width and jacket hip.
    Green = the contour I want to achieve.
    It looks much more severe in person, because this picture is taken from top-down angle so it enhances chest width and gives the illusion that the hips aren't as wide as they are. In real life it looks like a tutu! [​IMG]
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    My question is: how do I fix this? Which seam should I (or my tailor, assuming I can find a competent one around here) take in? Pinning the center back seam didn't help, it maintained the hip flare shape. I think the jacket needs to be taken in from the side vent seams, kind of "rotating" the front quarters of the jacket. Any advice?
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  10. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,902
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2002
    Location:
    Northern VA, USA
    guys--

    Can you give me your impressions on this one? the side vents and other basting stitching still in, but the store didn't want to touch anything but stitch the buttonholes on this one. I can't tell if the middle is X-ing at the button or not? they are happy to do more alterations if need be, but hard to trust the sales reps all the time.

    thoughts on fit? thank you!
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  11. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    426
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    Feb 12, 2012
    Hope the tailors can comment. I always like your stuff. Seems bit tight in the waist.
     
  12. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Chest is too small
     
  13. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,902
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2002
    Location:
    Northern VA, USA
    Thanks for the look! Yep, I guess it is a trade off for me with most brands these days-- to get the nice trim fit under the arms, waist, etc i lose a bit in the chest fit. Other brands have a bit more room sometimes but when I size up to 40, stuff requires too many alterations and still doesn't look as good on sides and under arms
     
  14. othertravel

    othertravel Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,420
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    Feb 9, 2011
    Hi tailors, @Despos

    The chest and shoulders on this suit fit well, but there's wrinkling in the sleeves. Can that be fixed? Does it require rotating the sleeves?

    Thanks!

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  15. DjangoV

    DjangoV Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
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    Nov 16, 2013
    Location:
    The Netherlands
    
    I am not a tailor nor a fit expert, but it seems you also have an issue with the waist fit. Notice the wrinkle running from the closed button below the pockets (and also the lower button flaring out a bit)? Seems a bit tight to me (could be wrong though).
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2014
  16. Dipty

    Dipty Member

    Messages:
    7
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    Sep 26, 2013
    Hey guys.

    Sorry if the photos aren't to the best standard, but I had this thought running through my mind this evening when I had run out of things to do and thought I should get the thoughts of this great forum on it. :)

    Recently, I purchased a suit which I believe fits me quite well (apart from the pants). Anyway, I'll cut to the chase - I am not satisfied with the way the trousers are fitting me, and was wondering what I can do to reduce the break and make them flow better so I can perfect these pants as best I can. Willing to listen to any recommendations, and it would be strongly appreciated.
    Just to be clear, this was an OTR suit I purchased from Country Road (http://www.countryroad.com.au/shop/man/the-suit-store/the-modern-tailored-suit) and I haven't tailored it one bit so far.
    I've also included an extra photo of the full suit, but please note that the pants look a lot more crinkled in that photo because at that point they weren't fully ironed and my mother really wanted to get a photo at that point, lol.
    Oh! I should add that I wear the pants fairly high to try and reduce this wrinkled look, obviously only as a temporary resort.

    Cheers,
    Sky

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    Last edited: Apr 10, 2014
  17. AdamWill

    AdamWill Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    255
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    Mar 7, 2012
    amateur opinion (not tailor): They just need hemming (shortening). Any alterations tailor you can find will do it for like ten bucks. They look a little tight in the top half to me, but workable. edit: it's also super-easy to see how hemming will look - just roll up the legs of the pants (to the inside).

    Also, learn to do your own damn ironing, but you don't iron suit cloth (unless it's really cheap or 'washable' stuff, which you shouldn't buy anyway). Take it to the dry cleaners to have it pressed.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2014
  18. Dipty

    Dipty Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2013
    Thanks for your reply.

    I figured they probably needed to be hemmed.
    As for the ironing part, it is honestly a small area of wrinkles (lower legs) and an iron on cool over a medium sized cloth covering the fabric does not damage wool.
    If it needs to be done, it is safe to iron suit pants this way, if not, pressing is needed.

    But a trip to the dry cleaners on its first day? Nope.
    Enough of that, I'll take it in tomorrow to see what my local tailor thinks.
    Sky
     
  19. Cotton Dockers

    Cotton Dockers Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,745
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2011
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Hello all, first post in this thread. Got my first pair of pants from Luxire for which I used measurements of another pair of pants. I have about a 35 waist, but much bigger hips/thighs/butt, so RTW can be difficult for me which is why I am hoping that MTO can be the answer..

    Looking for what I can ask for next time to get a better fit. Any thoughts are appreciated, thanks in advance:

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  20. NeedForTweed123

    NeedForTweed123 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    152
    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2013
    Do suit/jacket shoulder seams need to be the exact measurement of your actual shoulder? If I bought a suit with an 18.5 inch shoulder to shoulder measurement, would it be too large for my 18 inch shoulders?
     

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