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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not too busy for SF!
    To properly diagnose, best to see the fit without the braces attached. That may be contributing to some of the distortion in the seat area. You will probably need the crotch let out and the seat shaped.
     
  2. NeedForTweed123

    NeedForTweed123 Senior member

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    I thrifted these two Brooksgate jackets, both fit comfortably, but I have issues with the center vent pulling open on both of them even though I feel no straining anywhere in the jacket. The backs also seem to be messy, especially on the navy blazer. Any advice on what needs to be altered and by how much?[​IMG]
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    Last edited: Mar 28, 2014
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Last edited: Mar 29, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  4. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    @Despos I need your help! I have a plaguing problem with my shoulders on my jackets. There is something wrong with my right shoulder that always causes a divot, even when the left shoulder is fairly clean. My right shoulder is the one that is the major problem every time and can be illustrated in some of the following jackets. The first is a new suit I recently purchased and I believe is accentuated by the fact that the shoulders are a bit too big to begin with. I have typically tried to compensate for this issue by buying jackets that are more narrow in the shoulders. They seem to look a little cleaner to me.

    I also have trouble finding jackets that fit in the hip area due to my prominent seat, but I feel the shoulders issue is much more important. Am I doomed to being unable to wear RTW? Are there easy fixes to the new suit I have or any of these jackets? I have many jackets and am dissatisfied with the fit on nearly all of them. Jackets that are slim enough in the shoulders to accommodate my slope(?) are too short for my prominent seat. Jackets that are long enough aren't typically as flattering and have too wide shoulders. I'll keep looking, but this is so discouraging. I don't think I can afford bespoke, or I would drive down to your shop and get this solved! Thank you for any feedback you can provide.

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  5. eilay

    eilay Well-Known Member

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    @Despos, Could you please help me with the cause of wrinkling in my sleeves? Is the shoulder too big, or is it a sleeve pitch problem? Thanks!

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    Last edited: Mar 29, 2014
  6. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    It's a little too hard to tell. Better pics are needed.
     
  7. NeedForTweed123

    NeedForTweed123 Senior member

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  8. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    Check out Beyond Bespoke in Manhattan, they are known for more complex alterations. Most Dry Cleaners wouldn't attempt an alteration like this as its time consuming. The sleeves will need to be removed, the collar off, rip the shoulders or side seams. Few alteration tailors would see the value of taking on such a task. Shortening sleeves and hems is easier to make a quick buck.
    If one charged $20 to let out a pair of trousers and this alteration took 15 minutes what do you charge for an alteration that takes over an hour or two with a greater chance of something going wrong and having to repeat the alteration to please the client. Better for them to let out trouser waists all day than shorten back balances.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2014
  9. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    Can we get a shot of the back and side of sleeve? Better if a friend could take them.
     
  10. Rory Duffy

    Rory Duffy Well-Known Member

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    If you have wrinkles in the sleeve and want to check for pitching issue, rotate your arm forward. If the wrinkles disappear then a high pitch is the issue and the sleeves should be rotated back.
     
  11. thebuster

    thebuster New Member

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    Hi,

    got my first luxire shirt last week. I'm not completely satisfied with the fit, but its ok for the first order.
    But see for yourself:

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    For the next shirts I would modify the measures as follows:
    • Shoulders seem a bit too wide, so decrease the shoulder width by ~ 1,00
    • Especially in the back of the shirt there is too much fabric imo, so remove some fabric by reducing waist & lower back measure (same effect that you get when adding darts to this shirt), maybe by 0,50 - 1,00
    • The arms are too wide, especially the upper arm / biceps measure I would reduce by 0,50 - 1,00 inch (diameter)
    • Maybe increase the chest width by 0,25 (not sure about that)

    Do you think my observations are reasonable?

    What do you think about the fit? What other suggestions do you have? What about shirt / sleeve length?


    Thanks in advance,
    thebuster
     
  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sleeve resolution with bonus visual aid

    Solid lines are the original sleeve, broken lines are the adjustment to fix the issue. The amount needed to reduce the crown on the sleeve will vary on each jacket. Some need to be reduced at the top of the sleeve more than others. This fixes the wrinkles on most sleeves, it's not always about rotating the sleeve.
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    2 people like this.
  13. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior member

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    Thank you so much! So shoulder width is not the primary issue at play here, but rather shoulder shape? Can these issues be easily altered or is an excellent tailor needed? Do I need to go bespoke? Thanks!!!
     
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Same answer as the diagram above
     
  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's not the shoulder, it's the sleeve


     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here are before and after pictures of an open vent and the effect from shortening the back. This was pinned to show the result.

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    After pinning up the back by 1" to shorten the back balance

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    Last edited: Mar 29, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  17. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Quiet weekend Chris?
     
  18. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No, I'm tired and feel like goofing off, You?
     
  19. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Busy day for me. Columbia got in touch this week for the screening so I'm in.
     
  20. flboy96

    flboy96 Member

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    Edit: resolved
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014

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