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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Odradek

    Odradek Senior member

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    Location:
    Currently rural England
    I recently bought a Brooks Brothers Milano jacket, and need to have the sleeves shortened slightly.
    This brings up a bit of a dilemma, as my usual alterations tailor tells me that my right arm is 3/8" longer than my left, and this jacket has a very noticeable check pattern.
    If I shorten the sleeves by slightly different lengths, won't the pattern look different on each sleeve?
    Is it better with a bold pattern like this, to fudge it a little and shorten the sleeves by the same length, in between the ideal length for each arm?

    After all, I've been going round for years not knowing my arms were different lengths until last year. Apparently it's very common.

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    Last edited: Mar 25, 2014
  2. SilverBB

    SilverBB New Member

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    Hi all - I'm new here so not sure if this is an appropriate post for this thread. Please redirect me if I'm missing the mark. I've been in the market for a suit and have been feeling very uncomfortable with my lack of knowledge of fit, so I poked around on the internet for advice and found this forum, which is really terrific. So I've been lurking awhile, but this is my first real post. I'm looking at two summer suits for an upcoming big event and hoping to get some advice as to which might be the better starting point (or neither?). I apologize for the poor picture quality (in-store iPhone), and I realize you can't comment on the unhemmed pants that don't hang correctly in the pictures, but I'm hoping I can get some guidance on how the jackets fit? Both suits are straight off the peg. Thanks in advance.[​IMG]

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  3. eilay

    eilay Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014
  4. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    If you're in a store trying on OTR RLPL and Canali and they fit like that and you're postig pics in this thread, I'd consider a quality MTM suit. THe reason being these OTR suits are not built to your posture. THe other is do you see those diagonal drags/folds of cloth running from your neck down your sides? And the crushing fronts next to the buttoning point in the front? Those are symptoms of very sloped shoulders. The only fix for that is to either pack out the shoulders with pads or recut the shoulder line.
    No one should go buy a corvette and chop the top off to make it soft top. No, you just buy the soft top in the first place.
    MTM should be able to price around the same as Canali or RLPL. For you, it's head forward posture, perhaps prominent blades, and very sloped shoulders.
    Or, if $$ is not really an issue, consider bespoke.
     
  6. SilverBB

    SilverBB New Member

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    Mar 25, 2014
    Thank you. Your comments make sense to me. Fit seemed good in the store, but looking at the pictures I knew something was wrong here. Thank you for identifying the issue and giving me a direction.
     
  7. eilay

    eilay Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014
  8. Marc Voorhees

    Marc Voorhees Senior member

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    Thought I would post this here... What do we think is causing this and what is the fix? this is a new shirt from Propercloth
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  9. bdothunt

    bdothunt Member

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    Dec 5, 2013
    Not sure if this is appropriate forum for this question--please let me know if that is the case.

    I am looking at buying a suit on eBay from a well-respected buyer and have checked all the measurements against well-fitting clothing I currently own, and it checks out. The only potential issue is that the pants are a 31 and I am a 32, though the seller says there is an extra 1" to be let out. Great!

    The issue I am really concerned about, however, is that even 32 pants often are too tight through the hip and upper thigh for me (typically with more modern cuts I buy a 34 and have the waist taken in). I asked the seller to measure the half-hip for me and he graciously obliged. It's 19", whereas the pants I wear right now vary from 20-21". Will letting out the waist of the pants 1" affect the fit through the hip at all, or will it be too tight regardless? I suppose I can ask the seller to measure the thigh width of the pants, but I have asked him several questions already and kind of feel like I am being a pain in the ass. Any advice or thoughts would be appreciated.
     
  10. Enthusiasm

    Enthusiasm Well-Known Member

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    Jun 19, 2011
    Location:
    The North
    Evening gents! I just received my first pair of Luxire pants. They have an outstanding fit for being the first try in my opinion, but none the less I'd appreciate any tips and pointers to bring up to the tailor tomorrow! The pant leg is currently only rolled up, I intend to cuff then at the length they are at in the picture. Thanks! [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2014
  11. Daigneault

    Daigneault Member

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    Mar 18, 2014
    Just got a Benjamin suit and like so much about it, but am not sure if the shoulder fits. It feels a bit tight. I like the way it looks but it's definitely snug. I'm a well built dude, not sure if folks think it's good enough, or should be altered, or if I should pursue MTM at Paul Stuart which was my next stop.

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  12. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    Vancouver, BC
    Shoulders are definitely too small. The sleeve shouldn't have that dimple; going up a shoulder size will let the sleeve hang straight down from the shoulder. Looks like you haven't had any alterations yet, from the pants. I'd take it back, and size up.
     
  13. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    I might get them a little looser in the seat... that's a touch too much butt camel toe for me.
     
  14. Daigneault

    Daigneault Member

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    Mar 18, 2014
    Thank you! If I sized up, the pants are just going to be SO huge in the waist. They are already several inches too big. I'm going to email eHaberdasher and see what they think.
     
  15. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    I hate having that problem. I wish some brands/stores would be free-er about treatng their suits as separates. I know it's an inventory nightmare, it's just frustrating when it keeps you from getting a suit you like.
     
  16. Enthusiasm

    Enthusiasm Well-Known Member

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    Jun 19, 2011
    Location:
    The North
    

    Ehehe, dear lord. Thanks for the reply sir! I must admit, they don't... Feel tight when I wear them. And certainly not in the front. I do quite wonder what's causing the bunching of the fabric though in the front though. The cut, the fit, or the cloth? How would one attack it? I'm not too fond of the idea of slimming down the leg to be honest, I quite like the room, but if need be...

    Edit: I do see what you mean however, and I wonder if that might just not be wrinkles from the shipping. I will have to check it out later today after I've given them a wash. Thank you!
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2014
  17. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    Vancouver, BC
    

    If it's not actually caused by your butt cheeks, I am out of my depth in what the cause could be. Anyone else?
     
  18. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    May 4, 2011
    

    Hey, Im(I'm)TheGroom--aka SF's latest post whore--you seem to be posting an awful lot in this thread. How about we leave the advice giving to the tailors, hm? :violin:
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2014
  19. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    Vancouver, BC
    

    I posted twice on pretty obvious things, and when someone asked me something I didn't know, I straight up said I didn't know. If I annoy you that much, there's a block button.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. clb89

    clb89 Member

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    Mar 17, 2014
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    I suppose tailors are not participating in this thread anymore. They must be super busy
     

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