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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. edwardneale

    edwardneale New Member

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    Hoping some of you experts and aficionados can shine more light on the 'curved yoke' conundrum (dare I revisit it!). I recall some posts from years ago by Mr Kabbaz mentioning them.

    Does a slightly curved yoke actually improve fit for somebody with rounded/hunched shoulders? A majority of shoulders I come across tend to be somewhat rounded so I wanted to know what the consensus was. Furthermore, is it possible to produce a curved one-piece yoke? For arguments sake, if i assume I will produce my yoke out of a plain fabric (not striped) and so don't have to deal with the aesthetic issue of matching up stripes etc, will the curve in the bottom seam of the yoke (or back panel) aid rounded/hunched shoulders?

    In the aforementioned Kabbaz post, he mentions one-piece yokes 'CANNOT' be made to curve although split yokes could.

    However, I have read another excellent tutorial post suggesting one can curve both the yoke and the back panel (with minor adjustments to the sleeve) to produce the desired shirt. There is further evidence in this Frittolini post. Perhaps this is only relevant to a split yoke.

    Would love to hear your words of wisdom.

    Thanks

    Ed
     


  2. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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    @gabrijel: I think that if you are in a bulking stage and then you are going to cut, you should keep it. Just fix the sleeves and the pants. [​IMG]
     


  3. digga

    digga Senior Member

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    Looking for fit advice on a jacket. I may need to take better pics outside when the sun is out, but I'm hoping these two are good enough to at least determine if the jacket is worth keeping. This is a cotton twill LBM jacket. I recently moved up from a 38 to a 40. Not sure if I got fat or if my shoulders grew somehow, but it's really bumming me out.

    Anyway, the back/neck roll is the only thing that really bothers me on this coat. It's a pretty casual jacket, but I feel this part needs some sort of correction. Any suggestions are welcome, I will post better pics tomorrow evening.

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  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Nope. Not good enough to judge.
     


  5. digga

    digga Senior Member

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    Yea, the pics look even worse this morning than they did last night. Sorry about that. I will put some decent ones up today.
     


  6. jbcohen

    jbcohen Well-Known Member

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    Personally I do not think its a bad photo. The thing I would be most worried about here is the pulling towards the shoulder blades. If you look at the back of the coat you can see the outlines of the shoulder blades. I am by no means an expert on this subject, however I have think this means that the coat is too small if the blades are pulling the back.
     


  7. digga

    digga Senior Member

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    Here are some better photos. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.



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  8. jbcohen

    jbcohen Well-Known Member

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    You are too far away in these photos, however my earlier remarks stand there are some pulling in the lower back towards the shoulder blades, indicates that the coat may be too small.
     


  9. chrispy650

    chrispy650 Senior Member

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    Hi all. Been lurking for a little. I was at the mall earlier decided to try on J Crew's Ludlow suit. I know it's not the best picture and sorry I didn't get to take a back/side picture but just wanted to see what you guys thought about the fitment. For references, I am 5'9", 36 chest and 30 waist. The suit I tried on was a 36R and 30/30.

    [​IMG]
     


  10. nautikal

    nautikal Well-Known Member

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    Thoughts on my Black Lapel jacket?

    Things I noticed:
    1. The way the shoulders are constructed/padded is causing bulges where my trapezius muscles are (I have prominent traps). It's more apparent on the back view. I'm not sure if they can fix this on the next one, but I'll ask.
    2. Back needs to be cleaned up. Looks like it can just be taken in at the center seam?
    3. Front/back balance needs to be adjusted... needs to be longer in the back?
    4. The vents are gaping a bit on the right side, although pressing the suit to remove creases at the bottom in the back (from shipping) would help alleviate this. Suggestions? Let out in the waist at the back slightly? Of course I am aware that the prominent seat is the cause though.

    Thanks!

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    Last edited: Jun 2, 2013


  11. Jake103

    Jake103 New Member

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    Hi so I just bought my first suit for a wedding and i wanted something slim. I bought an extra slim Bar III suit from macys. The wedding is in less than a week so i had to purchase something fast but when i wore it at home it didnt seem to fit as well as i thought. Any suggestions on altercations or thoughts?



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  12. quuz

    quuz Senior Member

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    I bought a really nice suit from Rose & Born 3 years ago, however I've recently gained some weight, the jacket fits fine but the trousers fit painfully tight over the thighs and especially over my butt but fine at the waist. Approximately how much can you let the trousers out over the thighs/seat?
     


  13. 1up

    1up Distinguished Member

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    Hey all. Was wondering if I could get some feedback for a suit I just purchased. I had some alterations, and had the jacket waist suppressed a bit, not sure if it's too snug now though (chest pulls a little forward when I button it and have my hands in my pockets). Should I look into getting the pants a little more tapered down the leg and the opening? (opening is 8" right now, my other suit is 7.5")

    Any other advice? thanks!

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  14. nautikal

    nautikal Well-Known Member

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    From my experience, there is usually some fabric to let out at the seat but rarely any to let out at the thighs unless you specifically requested extra fabric on the side seams (on a bespoke or MTM garment). Best way to tell is just look inside the pants and see if there is any extra fabric.
     


  15. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior Member

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    This is probably a little late but if that suit isn't too big, then it looks like it needs to have the back balance shortened and the waist area suppressed to preference. The trousers can probably use some work too.
     


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