The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Senior member

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    Wondering if someone can answer this. On the back of my jackets, just a few inches below the collar, I get a 6-8 inch horizontal line. I am sure this is a fit issue. Any feedback appreciated. I can post a pic when I get home potentially if an answer doesn't come immediately to mind. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Senior member

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    As a visual reference to the above inquiry:

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  3. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    I sometimes have that same issue with jackets. I believe it's caused by prominent shoulder blades. On my recent Kent Wang MTM suit, Kent corrected the problem by "lowering the collar" by a half cm. From what I understand, it simply eliminates some of the excess fabric causing the horizontal rippling, but doesn't change how the jacket collar sits on your neck. You have more wrinkling than I did, though, so probably would need more than 0.5 cm. Of course, I'm no tailor so I could be totally wrong on all that. :laugh: I'm sure OTCtailor will offer his opinion. That guy has been putting in serious work in this thread, and my hat is off to him. I read this thread from time to time because I find it all interesting and I've learned a lot. I usually try to refrain from proffering my own thoughts, though. ;)
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2013
  4. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Definitely want to have a tailor get a look at that in person. Sometimes lowering the collar or squaring the shoulders can fix that but those two operations aren't for fixing tightness across the upper back/shoulders. They're for squaring up the balance/shoulder line. If your head is forward, you will just lower the collar or square the shoulders but still have that problem thereby wasting your money.
     
  5. gringodaddy

    gringodaddy Senior member

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    Thanks for your response. Am I buying the wrong size jackets?
     
  6. gabrijel

    gabrijel New Member

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    Hi All
    What a great forum you've got here!!Congrats..I could go the whole day through your threads.
    I've bought my first Tom Ford suit on ehaberdasher.co.uk and the suit came today.
    Usually I wear Hackett Mayfair suits and they fit me pretty good without alterations.
    Now the Tom Ford suit doesn't fit me at all and I wonder if alteration would help anything?
    I have a pretty good tailor which worked for Lanvin but I have also the possibility to return the suit so now I dont know what would be the better choice,,
    The trousers and the sleeves havent been altered yet so dont pay attention to that.
    Do you think a good tailor can get me the Tom Ford look? As for now even my cheap 1k Hackett suits are looking better
    than this one. I wouldnt mind paying 1k for the alterations if the result would be a perfect fitting/looking suit..but I fear that the result wouldnt be good and that I have wasted a lot of money.
    Usually I have aprox. 10 pounds less and I'll be back on my normal weight in a few weeks..
    I hope you can give me some advice and thanks
    in advance for your help!!
    Regards from Switzerland
    Gabriel


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  7. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    No alterations are going to make you appear as fab in your suit as you should for whatever you paid.
    Return
     
  8. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    A little too much tightness all over. I wouldn't go buy a Tom Ford suit for the Tom Ford look if you know what I mean. Good MTM can build to Tom Ford specs...and probably much cheaper.
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Possibly..I'd need to see from other angles.
     
  10. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    Alright, back with the pants question. Ignore the shirt, it's a casual cut shirt (short) and didn't stay tucked in. What's with the giant folds behind my knees?

    These are 33's, untailored. I have a pair of 34's with the same style cut that had the rear rise taken in and they don't have the crease NEAR as bad. Can it be fixed at all? (ETA: I'm pretty sure it's because I don't have an ass. And I can't fix that.) (ETA 2: No comments on the missed belt loop..)

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    Last edited: May 29, 2013
  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    not exactly fixable on a completely finished trouser without stupid amounts of labor but you could have the same operation done on them that you had on the others...that is lowering the back rise...maybe changing the seat angle a bit by scooping it.
     
  12. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    So I've got good reason to go bespoke or MTM? That sucks. Those are some unsightly creases.
     
  13. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I think you need some larger loudspeakers.
     
  14. gabrijel

    gabrijel New Member

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    Thanks for your help! Besides that there is too much tightness all over..what are the main problems with the fit? Because as I have mentioned above I go back to my normal weight which is about 10-14 pounds less. So then the tightness shouldnt be a problem anymore..for example in my opinion there is to much textile in the upper arm area..is this something a tailor can alternate?
    Thanks again for helping me!
    Gabriel
     
  15. gabrijel

    gabrijel New Member

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    I thought so too, unfortunately these are the biggest Naim Audio offers ;-)
     

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