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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. azwildcat

    azwildcat Active Member

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    Feb 5, 2014
    Thank you!

    Re "build"...polite reference to belly? Makes sense. Hadn't thought of suspenders, but the sagging waistline is def. an annoyance...I shall try them (or crunches!).

    I don't know a tailor here (Phoenix) that I trust with sleeves. There's a reputable one in Chandler I haven't tried...maybe these sleeves on these inexpensive suits represent a good opportunity to try him out.

    Thanks again.
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you do get the sleeves worked on. It would be worth the additional cost to have the right shoulder adjusted. That's your low side.

    There are several causes and several cures for the sleeves. Getting the correct diagnosis is the first step and someone who can execute the changes is next.

    Front, side and back pictures with your arms relaxed are necessary
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Jean cuts will fit/look like this on you. No way around it.
     
  4. Chopper88

    Chopper88 Senior member

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    Thank you for taking the time Despos, appreciate it!

    Do you have any recommendations on what type of cuts to look for with my type of stance/legs?
    And judging by the determination of your post, probably nothing can be done about this type of OTR cuts? I don't mind if its a lot of work and costs relatively much compared to the price of the jeans, I just want great pants when I'm not wearing a suit as well.
     
  5. michaelyork

    michaelyork Senior member

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    Nov 6, 2012
    I am eyeing a 3-piece suit, nice cut, good price, my size 52.
    There has been a mixup.  This last one they have seems to have a size 50 vest, 52 everything else.

    52 usually fits me loose (pants definitely need a belt to stay put in place), but I prefer the look/shape of 52.  50 fits me albeit tightly.

    My question:  Is it true vests need to fit perfectly?  Will the 50 be uncomfortable for me?  more importantly, when just wearing pants and vest, will the 50 vest and 52 pants look not right together?


    Any advice gratefully appreciated.
     
  6. Terpo

    Terpo Senior member

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    Oct 6, 2013
    Location:
    Europe
    I agree the drape is sloppy. Apart from letting out the crotch, what measurements would I be looking to change on my next order to improve the fit (it's Luxire MTM)? Does the crotch refer to the rise, the thigh or the hip measurement?

    Also, in order to judge the rise more accurately I took some more holistic pics. I am wearing the trousers at my natural waist, which I heard was advised for the tall slim as myself. Would you agree with this or should I think about lowering the waistband in the future?

    And finally and comments on the fit of this MTM shirt would be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks a lot in advance!
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  7. yankeegooner

    yankeegooner Well-Known Member

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    Jul 22, 2010
    Thanks Despos and Co. for your taking the time to provide expert advise. Good work!

    I got a 42L OTR suit and had a tailor make significant adjustments. I have a 9 - 10 inch drop and long arms. I wear 16.5-38.

    Looks like the jacket needs more work.

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  8. daxnjan

    daxnjan Member

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    I just received my first redo from Proper Cloth, and I'd like some critiques of the fit for this MTM dress shirt. I'm not too impressed with the fit, but I might have unrealistic expectations of how a dress shirt should fit.

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  9. EEWithoutStyle

    EEWithoutStyle Senior member

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    Sep 24, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Hello Tailors. It was suggested by a fellow member for me to post these pics here for feedback. I got these from SuitSupply and have a hard time finding something that fits me well OTR. Are these sleeves salvageable (note SS has functioning button holes on the sleeves). Yes the sleeves are short but wondering if they could be lengthened. They are both 34R. The 36R fits much more roomier in the chest and shoulders.

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  10. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tailors I was interested in EEs jacket length and how you might adjust. I feel the torso leg ratio isn't bad (when I cover his arms in photo) but it's short relative to the rule of thumbs. I don't know how tall EE is and if he is shorter would want a shorter jacket relative to someone taller to emphasize a sense if height via a longer leg line?

    Anyway curious how you would balance all the relevant factors to come up with a tasteful jacket length
     
  11. EEWithoutStyle

    EEWithoutStyle Senior member

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    Sep 24, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    
    I am 5'10". Wear a 14.5-32/33 shirts and 31x32 pants (depending on the brand). Hope this info helps the tailors.
     
  12. hoxuantu

    hoxuantu Well-Known Member

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    Please give me some comments and suggestions on my suit fitting.
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  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You will always have issues around the upper back from very, very prominent shoulder blades. What is going on is minimized by the jacket being a size too big. It is covering you rather than fitting you.
     
  14. hoxuantu

    hoxuantu Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jun 10, 2012
    I'm still in need of some advices :)
     
  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Back needs extensive work to clean up the blades and roll under the collar. Your posture is erect but you need more length on the fronts. Cannot shorten the back balance here because you need extra length over your shoulder blades. The fronts have no outlet to do this, Trouser length is too long. Back rise is too long on trouser creating the wrinkles on the the back
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2014
  16. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Very erect posture causing the fronts to scissor (cross over each other below the front buttons) You need more front length from the shoulder, The balance issue makes the back fall in on your hips and creates all the wrinkles on the back. Front chest is narrow and makes the chest/break line of the lapels look like ( ) instead of V. All this is very hard if at all possible to correct from a finished garment
     
  17. JMartinEsq

    JMartinEsq Member

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    Dec 3, 2013
    I have a question about shoulder measurements. How much variation can I expect in shoulder width? I have a MTM suit with 19.5 inch shoulders. Would it be possible for a suit with 17.5 inch shoulders to fit me properly, depending on the cut of the suit? I am eyeballing a suit on ebay, so I obviously cannot try it on.
     
  18. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Have seen this disparity of shoulder widths work on some. Depends on the way the shoulder is cut and construction. You are taking a chance. Will be a big difference in shoulder expression and I have no idea if such a narrow shoulder will be comfortable.
     
  19. Alexander Scriabin

    Alexander Scriabin Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Mar 13, 2005
    Location:
    Australia
    Hi there,

    I've just recently received my first MTM from Kent Wang and there are some pretty serious fit issues with the jacket. Because of the nature of some of these problems, I doubt alterations are much of a possibility but I was wondering if anyone might be able to suggest how to improve the fit for next time. I'm happy to write this one off as a loss if it leads me closer to what I want in the future.

    The main problems are the adjustment for head forward being too severe (collar too high) and the buckling tightness around the shoulders. We sloped the shoulders fairly aggressively but it seems that they didn't assume to increase the width to accommodate the increased slope. The shoulders feel very tight and "pinch" on the front. The shoulder line is very buckled too but I assume that this to do with the height of the collar.

    The back is still something of a mess too. I've noted on the image areas that I'm most concerned with.

    I'd really appreciate any thoughts. Especially on how to best communicate to KW what ought to be done.

    Best regards

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  20. yankeegooner

    yankeegooner Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 22, 2010
    Thanks Despos for your observations. I appreciate them. I'll probably just endure this for now and try to commission a MTM from a proper tailor soon.
     

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