The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

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    It's just an epidemic of too short and too tight. Suit after suit of clothes that look like they were shrunk in the wash. When will this end?
     
  2. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    It will end when people are honest with themselves.
     
  3. aussiedoggie

    aussiedoggie New Member

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    Greetings!

    This is my first post, and like a bad houseguest, I start with a request instead of a gift.

    Could someone with tailoring expertise advise me on this Indochino suit? I am a few remakes into the process, with improvement each time. Here, I see the problem with the collar in the front of the suit, but do not know the remedy. That's the only problem that my untrained eye recognizes. If you see others, by all means advise me.

    I took the pictures standing the way I normally stand. The suit and shirt actually feel comfortable, but I've lost a mountain of weight over the past two years after being "of size" for decades. Because of that, I think I know how a suit should look, but how a properly-fitted suit should feel is somewhat new to me. I work in a conservative industry in the Midwest United States.

    Best regards, and thank you for any comments you could make.

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  4. pnin22

    pnin22 Senior member

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    aussiedoggie: My main observation is that this suit would benefit from wider lapels and lower button stance. I suppose the buckling of the lapel could be remedied by letting the suit out a little at the waist. For the pants, I would widen the seat, taper the leg a bit and hem them.
     
  5. aussiedoggie

    aussiedoggie New Member

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  6. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    A lot of things wrong with the suit:

    1. The neck doesn't fit. It is way too big
    2. Pulling in the mid section
    3. Jacket is too short
    4. Lapels too skinny
    5. Quarters too closed
    6. Buttoning point too high
    7. Back needs a little cleanup
    8. Pants too long
    9. Too much fabric at the back of the pants

    Experts can point out other technical issues. These are the obvious ones to me and I am a novice.
     
  7. aussiedoggie

    aussiedoggie New Member

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    Thank you, kulata. That helps, and thanks to the search function, I now know what "quarters" are on a jacket . . .
     
  8. blarthyblar

    blarthyblar Member

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    Awesome. Thanks so much for the feedback!!
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    The "quarters" are actually just fine but the illusion of them being too closed is what's happening here. The button point is acting as a kindof fulcrum. Despite the fact that you've lost weight, you're still a very prominent barrel chested stout gentleman in the front. Don't know if this was a custom suit or not, but if it is and it is new, whoever took the measurement may not have considered the relationship between p2p and chest fit. You've also got some shoulder slope and forward hanging arms. You can see how that's creating tension across the upper back. The collar gap is created because the jacket is fighting the natural form of your body. The pressure of your chest expanding inside the garment combined with a too short front balance is causing the quarters to invert into each other thus the closed quarters.
    The pants are more fixable than the jacket. Things like lapel width, button stance, etc aren't fixable on this garment, obviously. If it was made for you recently, my recommendation is check out the remake process if there is one to see if certain of your posture/fit attributes can actually be accounted for. If they can't, see if you can get a refund because I don't think this can be fixed from being a finished garment.
    If this garment is RTW, start taking a look around at some good MTM because the only way to fix this is to probably size up or look around forever until you find a good cut...if there is one.
     
  10. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Relating to post above...
    This gentleman is a client of mine (pics posted with permision). There are major differences between his and your body, but also a lot of similarity. He's very broad with high and square shoulders also with strong erect posture. He's very barrel chested with a forward stomach. He simply need more front length than back. He needs A LOT of width in the chest which generally must correspond to a lot of width in the shoulders, as well. This was the first suit for him off of which we will create adjustments as we go along but this is what you should expect from a better MTM provider when you're dealing with a figure that is pretty difficult to fit. This suit isn't perfect. He's also wearing the trousers with a belt though they were made to wear with braces. They are not too long unless worn with a belt. See how from the front the suit makes him look generally slimmer? Obviously it's not going to make him look like a beanpole but you get the drift. This is called flattery and it is the goal.
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  11. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

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  12. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    HA! If you suggest no belt loops on trousers in lieu of susp buttons and side straps, people get scared....almost like you're selling them a car without tires.
     
  13. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

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    I can only imagine the difficulty in convincing people to dump the loops. That said, braces with trousers that still have belt loops is one of my biggest pet peeves (unless obscured by a waistcoat). The only thing worse is droopy suit pants caused by people who should be wearing braces. [​IMG]
     
  14. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    I try not to argue with them. This mans pants actually have loops, side straps, and susp buttons....it's a bit overkill but he wanted them that way
     
  15. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    loops AND sude straps yea talking about overkill...
     

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