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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. oolongtea

    oolongtea Member

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    Sep 30, 2012
    Hey resident tailors,

    I was hoping to get your assessment as to the 2 shirts attached, in particular:
    - which one fits best between the two for future MTM orders (going to send one to Luxire to copy and adjust);
    - based on which one fits best, how I can improve fit (e.g. adjusting more for forward shoulders, which is fairly evident in this case).

    Thanks in advance!

    Untucked:
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  2. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Hello! First time posting to this thread. I have been recommended to seek out the great Despos over on the WAYWRN thread.
    Questions: What needs to be done on this suit?
    The shoulders look narrow and I wonder if the suit is not for my body type or if I should do something like add some pads to the shoulders or should I work out a bit (j/k).
    Let me know whatever stands out and what needs work. I am bummed out about paying full retail at NM on this suit and just would like to make it right by tweaking some things.
    Thank you

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  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not much to tell from this picture, no apparent issues. If you think the shoulder is narrow you want to look for a different silhouette. Adding a pad will add vertical height but not width. You cannot make these shoulders wider. You cannot just add pads unless there is space to accommodate them and you need the pad to fill in that space.
     
  4. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Hmmm...interesting. I am glad that there really isn't that stands out. Thanks for the feedback. Here's another pic just in case. Thanks again.
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  5. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Looks fine.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Didn't comment about the front button on the first picture but it has to moved. I think they did once because the vertical line of the pattern doesn't line up. It's off from your low shoulder.
    Left jacket sleeve is shorter than right. Trouser has ubiquitous long back rise issue, wrinkling under seat phenomenon.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Thank you. I guess the WAYWRN guys are really nitpicking.
     
  8. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Thank you again @Despos
     
  9. dohare

    dohare Senior member

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    Oct 19, 2013
    Hope someone can answer this-

    I recently had the first case of a shirt shrinking after a dry cleaning. About an entire inch in the chest (talking just the front measurement) and a half an inch in the waist. Is there a way to request your cleaning to be done without the possibility of shrinking?

    Can I just steam my shirts at home and iron? I mean, as long as I'm not sweating like crazy, it's still clean. Is this reasonable?

    Thanks
     
  10. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Your shirt, if made of cotton, isn't dry cleaned but just machine washed and pressed. If it wasn't pre-shrunk (I highly doubt) then it will drink a bit.
    I wear an undershirt underneath my dress shirts so I can wear them again. I only steam the back and where the arms bend.
    I would not iron it...to many reasons not to iron it.
     
  11. dohare

    dohare Senior member

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    so steam, gotcha. yeah i order shirts from an MTM site, and while all are cotton, this one shrank significantly more than others...so idk what the cause was.
     
  12. cbfn

    cbfn Senior member

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    I have been having trouble with my pants for the last six months or so; after intensifying my workouts and putting extra focus into bottom half strength, my pants' back rise has started to rise up into my behind. This resulted in me throwing away some of my now overly tight pants, but the ones I have which even has excess fabric around the thigh and hip area have lately been doing the sam thing. Having the pants sit lower on my waist does not remedy the problem. I have lately wondered if this is fixable or if I need to buy new pants. Basically, the problem quite equal to the figure A here (but not as bad as in the picture) - would it be possible to have it explained more in depth on what alterations must be done?

    I have also attached some photos, and even thought there is no strictly NSFW with these, I would not recommend looking at them at work.

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  13. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    They need to have the back fork released all the way from the top of the fork tapering down to the knee (back part of the inseam only). Taking in the seat only a little in conjunction with releasing the back fork should also help reduce excess fabric width wise.
    That's about all you can do.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. AwfullyNiceGuy

    AwfullyNiceGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Denmark, Jutland
    I do realize that this thread calls for pictures to identify a problem, but I hope that you will be so kind as to provide assistance anyhow: I am considering buying a coat on the interwebs, and therefore I do not have the luxury of trying on said coat beforehand.
    Since I do not currently own a proper mens coat I was wondering how much ''bigger'' a coat should be compared to my jackets? Is there a general rule of thumb?

    My biggest concern is that my jackets meaures approx. 18.5 inches between the shoulders, and the coat measures 20. I assume the waist/chest can more readily be altered like on a jacket?
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2014
  15. Membking

    Membking Member

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    Feb 2, 2014
    Thanks a lot for the comments. Very helpful.

    Before the jacket collar was shortened, it rest perfectly on the shirt collar without any collar gap. After I had my tailor shorten the jacket collar, however, I noticed a small gap between the shirt and jacket collar. I had to slightly pull my lapels forward to make the collars lie closely to each other, which probably created the "unbalanced" look you pointed out.

    Does shortening the jacket collar usually create the collar gap problem? Would you suggest me to ask my tailor to re-do her job and fix the created collar gap?

    Thanks again.
     
  16. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    If the shoulders were squared at the backpart only, it will naturally shorten the back. That will caused the jacket to fall down in the back because it requires that extra length. This is where you're getting the unbalanced look and feel.
    Properly squaring the shoulders from the front and back would not change the balance point. As Despos said before, that would've worked better BUT it's a major job that involves recutting the neckhole and possibly the collar as well. Not for most alterations tailors (even a big job for myself).
    When there is a roll below the collar, it has to be carefully diagnosed. It could be too much incline for the posture or it could be the shoulders are too square but the incline is fine.
    The problem with reversing what was already done is that there's a good chance the fabric was cut off at the top of the neck in order to square the back part of the shoulder. If it wasn't, it can be reversed but only your tailor would know that.

    Side note: when thrifting or ebay'ing jackets, it's always wise to have a look at the back of the collar where the felt was attached (or ask the ebay seller) to see whether that stitching is done by machine or by hand or if the stitching isn't completely uniform all around. This is a good sign that the collar was either lowered or that the shoulder/s wear squared from the back part only.
     
  17. oolongtea

    oolongtea Member

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  18. cbfn

    cbfn Senior member

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    Thank you! How would you describe this problem if I were to order MTM pants from the existing pattern?
     
  19. azwildcat

    azwildcat Active Member

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    Feb 5, 2014
    Okay, here goes.

    Two Signature Gold suits from Jos A Bank...bought separately on clearance for less than the tailoring.

    The weird lighting/coloring is from photoshop...the pictures were very dark and so I had to lighten them substantially. The first suit is dark gray and the second is navy pinstripe.

    Looking for help with all the problems (e.g., what's up with the backs of the sleeves?), but also specifically wondering: (a) should I have the pants tapered and/or lengthened?...I hate the way they rest on the shoes; and (b) are the sleeves too long?...to me they don't look obviously too long in these pics, but they look too long in the mirror and I'm wearing a dress shirt that I think fits in the sleeves and it's no where to be seen here.

    Fire away. Thanks in advance.











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    Last edited: Feb 5, 2014
  20. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Made a visual aid for you. You want to have the crotch let out but the seat curve made deeper also. The broken lines are the correction to make on the finished trouser.

    If the crotch has no outlet, deepening/reshaping the seat curve may help enough. You can see from the arrows it makes the space wider from the crotch seam to the seat line. Making the curve deeper picks up and cleans out some of the wrinkles you see on the leg under the seat

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    1 person likes this.

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