The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. nautikal

    nautikal Well-Known Member

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    WAY too big. You may need to go the made to measure or bespoke route.
     


  2. robbrechter

    robbrechter Well-Known Member

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    New suit. MTM fitted in person, but non-local tailor. Here are my concerns:

    Jacket:
    1. Shoulders-- The shoulders have slight bumps on each sid. Does it look okay or should shoulder be reduced 1-2 cm or is something else the cause?
    2. Pulling across upper back-- I have very broad shoulders for my size and when I was fitted, we discussed adjusting the fit to make sure there was little to not collar gap, but was told there would most likely always be at least a small amount of pulling behind my neck due to my frame. Is this definitely true? Can alterations fix that or am I risking other/greater problems?
    3. Chest-- Chest feels okay to me, but I'm used to Indochino's too-tight to walk fashion slim fit (which I want to get away from), so I guess I just need someone to tell me that the chest is fine and doesn't need to be reduced.
    4. Jacket Length-- Similar to the above, my other suit jackets are fashion short and this one I wanted to to be a more traditional length. Should the jacket be slightly longer or is it okay?

    Trousers:
    5. Seat/thigh-- IMO Way too much fabric in the seat/thigh area. Easy fix? What do I tell the tailor to make sure the right alterations are made and nothing excessive.
    6. Waist-- It's about 1.5" too big. Is this easily fixable even though I have side adjusters? These trousers don't have buttons for braces but I'm going to add them, so I'm reluctant to get things too slim as I know the trousers shouldn't be too tight so they hang better.
    7. Length-- I wanted trousers to sit at my natural waist and still have a very slight break (not a fan of the trendy look where the pants don't come anywhere near the top of shoe). So if that's what I'm going for, the waist band should be right below my navel, correct?

    Those are my concerns. I'm thinking I may need to ask for a trousers remake because I think they should be lengthened and while the other issues can be fixed with alterations, there isn't much excess fabric on the inside of the hem.

    Please let me know what you think should be changed both in the context of alterations for this garment as well as future suits. I really want to provide good feedback to my tailor to dial things in better for my next suit. Overall, I think the suit is pretty good, but if that's not the case, I'm interested in learning why so I can get it better next go 'round.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013


  3. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Why?
     


  4. robbrechter

    robbrechter Well-Known Member

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    probably because of your small size. If 36 is too big, you'll likely have great difficulty finding well made suits OTR.
     


  5. blinks112

    blinks112 Member

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    Suit Supply navy wool Havana in 38r... Ordered in both 36 and 38 as 36 is my usual size, but the 36 was just too tight all around. I really don't know much about fit, though I can tell that the back looks off... maybe needs to be let out right above the vents. Do the shoulders look ok? Thanks
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    Also, apologies for the choice of pants, which are likely giving you a headache about now.
     


  6. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    If it actually can be let out at the back without disturbing the drape, that's what it needs. Then, that suppression should be shifted to the front or left as is. The prominent chest is making the lapels gape. Nothing you can really do about that. I think the shoulders look fine.
    All in all, the jacket could take a few tweaks here and there to improve the overall fit, but the major strain areas such as the chest and lower back are so fixable with this finished garment. That being said, if those things bother you that much, then let them bother you enough to save up the change to find a decent MTM supplier that can properly notate and adjust for those particular fit attributes.
     


  7. docka

    docka Senior member

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    I lost about 10 pounds, but I wanted to see whether this bespoke suit will still fit me properly. Inputs are appreciated it....Also, how do I rotate these pictures correctly? I rotated correctly via power point but these files reverted back to their initial picture taking angle after posting them online...I apologize for the inconvenience.

    I'm thinking about slimming the pants up a bit...any other thoughts?




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  8. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Docka, the pictures are too dark (and sideways) to be of much use in evaluating the fit. Also, you should stand naturally with your feet no more than shoulder-width apart.
     


  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    yeah try that
     


  10. blinks112

    blinks112 Member

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    Thanks for your feedback. Do you think the sleeves are a bit long as well? Is there enough room to fix that without moving the buttons? (working buttonholes...)
     


  11. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Sleeve length looks fine though you might like it higher since your shirt cuff is too loose. You really should have the courtesy to rotate the pictures if you want others to assess your fit.
     


  12. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    They look a tad too long. They may be finished in a way that will allow for adjusting up or down. Look at the inside edge just under the last buttonhole. You should see a diagonal seam there. If it looks folded and hand tacked, they can be adjusted. If its a cleanly sewn seam, then no adjusting unless from the shoulder but they're hardly too long to warrant that.
     


  13. docka

    docka Senior member

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    I found a way to rotate my pictures. Here is what I wrote from my last post.

    "I lost about 10 pounds, but I wanted to see whether this bespoke suit will still fit me properly. Inputs are appreciated it" I'm thinking about slimming up the pants a bit.

    I also just picked up my tailored dress shirt. Is it too tight? Let me know you think. Thanks. I apologize for the belt loops. I guess I rushed it a bit too much.



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    Last edited: May 23, 2013


  14. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Please read very first post in the thread then look at your pics and ask yourself what's different. Don't mean to be an SF hyper elite jerk but a tailor can't tell what's going on when you're In a pose. Yes, the suit obviously needs work but an accurate description of what it needs is distorted when your pics are not in line with what is in the first post. Thanks for understanding.
     


  15. docka

    docka Senior member

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    I apologize for not taking the correct pictures. I hope these work out better for the critique. I'm hoping to get a critique on the dress shirt as well as the suit. Thanks.

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    Last edited: May 23, 2013


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