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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. jebarne

    jebarne Distinguished Member

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    Hi Brandon. First of all, I don't feel that I'm expert enough to critique the suit, but mensimageconsultant seems right on. For a guy your size, it might be helpful to look at some other heavy guys who are well dressed. I used to weigh in at 280 so I have had my own challenges trying to find things to wear that presented me the best. I've pulled a couple of pictures of guys who are heavier but who look great in suits.

    At any rate, take a look at these and apply them to your re-make. Look at the Horatio Sanz photo from GQ. His suit covers the butt and doesn't pull across the chest. Note that even though it is a modern cut suit, the legs are wide enough to cover his girth in a way that makes him look slimmer. My guess is, these photos make you actually look heavier than you are because of the options you've chosen. In others, you can see that the belt area doesn't have a body crease the way yours does in the photo. you might be better off adopting a larger waist and adding suspenders.


    [​IMG]

    So from this, I'd say 2 button stance, suit that covers the rear, pants that are wide enough to drape really well, and since he has a cuff, they are probably pleated, which some suggest for those of us with larger waists. Also, note that the sleeves on his suit are longer than yours and the shirt sleeve shows about an inch.

    Now in the Following photo, we have Cedric the Entertainer, a bigger guy who always looks great.

    [​IMG]

    This is a casual look, jeans, open collared shirt with a jacket. Note that the jacket is 3 button, same as yours, but it is longer (just below the crotch of the jeans). The button stance is lower (note that the lowest button is at his belt, and only the middle is buttoned). In your case, if you added a 4th button to your jacket, it would still be a couple inches above your belt. Also in this photo, you can see that there is a more structured shoulder that adds width that creates more of a taper at the waist. In your photo, the shoulder is the narrowest part, and then the bottom of the suit cuts around your widest part. That is, no waist...

    also in the two photos above, there isn't a back shot, but I guarantee you the jacket camouflages any love handles they may have. In your suit, because it pulls there, your love handles are accentuated.

    One more of Cedric, and I'm not sure you want the white shoes.

    [​IMG]


    Again, this is a very stylish man who obviously loves looking good. Now in this case, I'm not sure you want your pants that long (hector's seem great), but again, note his jacket comes below the end of his zipper by at least 1-2 inches. More width at the shoulder, tapered to the waist. Also check out the lapels. it buttons easily with no visible pulls. Note his lowest button is at the belt line.


    I take from these pictures that great looking heavier guys, should wear the jacket longer than indochino suggests. This is one of those questions of Fashion vs Style.

    Cover the butt, or have someone measure you from the bottom of the collar to the floor, and then make your jacket half that distance for the right proportion. I would consider a more padded shoulder and bring the lapels wider. Some have suggested that you take the distance from your shoulder seam to the lapel and that a lapel should be about 40% of of that distance. So all of these photos seem to have a lapel in the 3 to 3 1/2" range. Where you can define the line from the photos, they all come to just under half the width. More fabric in the chest and waist would also make the jacket drape better. Lower the button stance so that the bottom button is at your belt.

    As to the pants, I would go to a store an try pants till I got to the size that would button without creating a muffin top, which you've created with the ones you're wearing. Then I would add pleats and wear suspenders. I would also widen the leg of your pants somewhat to drape in a straight line from top to bottom, without any pulls behind the knee or the thigh. That will mean adding an inch or two or four to your thigh and knee measurement.

    I hope this isn't offensive to you, but you're a nice looking young man and the suit, as is, makes you look dumpy, rumpled etc, when what I think you were after is the look of the Horatio Sanz photo.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2013


  2. Tardis

    Tardis New Member

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    The tailor I use has fixed a lot of things. A smoking jacket purchased several months ago looks great
    after a trip to him.

    Developing a relationship with a tailor who understand what you want, how you dress, and the style you
    which to achieve is key. He doesn't care if it's Brioni, Brooks Brothers, or something inexpensive, His
    goal is to make it look the best it can on your specific frame.
     


  3. johnvw

    johnvw Distinguished Member

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    Well-said.
     


  4. p14nd4

    p14nd4 New Member

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    Hi guys! I've been an off-and-on lurker for a while, but finally bit the bullet and registered, and have come here as my first stop to seek your expert advice! After being fairly pleased with my Indochino suit a couple years ago, and reading generally positive things about BlackLapel, I recently pulled the trigger on a tux from them that arrived yesterday. It's still pretty wrinkly from shipping, and I've only tried on the jacket so far, but I'd like your opinion (and any feedback on more photos/poses, etc. I should provide).

    Here are the photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/114384581488769231525/Tux#

    (I intentionally cranked up the exposure on several of the photos in order to make the details of the black fabric more visible, so I'm sorry the material and colors look a bit funky.)

    I'm really not an expert at this, but here are a few things that caught my eye:
    1. My biggest concern is the sleeve length; I grant that this shirt's sleeves may be slightly too long(?), but I'm worried that even with "proper" shirt sleeve length there will still be too much shirt cuff shown. I did opt for non-functional sleeve buttons, which I understand makes adjusting the sleeve length easier, but is it possible to lengthen the sleeves [at all/enough]? Should I take a photo without any sleeve visible, so you can see where it hits relative to my wrist?
    2. Next, it seems that the back dimples a bit awkwardly at the small of my back, and doesn't quite lay flat across my shoulder blades. Are those things A. improper, and if so, B. fixable?
    3. Continuing on, it seems like there's some dimpling on the roped shoulder on my right side, and there might be more of a rope on the right shoulder than left (visible from the front and back). Am I making things up/making a big deal out of something tiny, or is that a legitimate concern, and if so, is it reasonably fixable?
    4. Lastly, what other things am I missing?

    If any aspects of are clearly irreparable (within roughly $125 of tailoring, let's say), BlackLapel says they'll do a remake at no charge, but I'd like to have very clear guidance to give them to increase my chance of success. I need to wear the tux for an event in early July, so while I do have time for one round of remake and tailoring if necessary, there's not a wide margin for error or recourse if that goes wrong.

    Thanks in advance, everyone! (Also, please bear with me me if I made any newbie mistakes.)
     


  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    The sleeves are definitely too short.
     


  6. michaelyork

    michaelyork Senior Member

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    I was planning on wearing this tuxedo tonight and getting the pants altered this afternoon.
    Can you experts please advise me--is the fit alright on this? Or is it too large?
    Any advice gratefully appreciated! Please excuse the lack of wingtip shirt, bowtie, proper tux shoes, etc.


    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]





    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]





    [​IMG][​IMG]



    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     


  7. johnvw

    johnvw Distinguished Member

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    ^Judging by the way the pics appear on my computer screen, there don't seem to me to be any egregious fit issues that would indicate that the tuxedo is too large for you. The shirt, however, looks too large for you, and the shirtsleeves seem to me to be too long. Is this the shirt you plan to wear with it?

    When you have the pants altered, you may want to have the single vent in the jacket closed. Center vents in tuxedo jackets really upset tuxedo "traditionalists"! :)
     


  8. johnvw

    johnvw Distinguished Member

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    +1. The jacket looks too tight, too, judging by the stress marks around the buttoning point.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2013


  9. michaelyork

    michaelyork Senior Member

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    Thank you for your reply. I am relatively new here. I take it you are the tailor?

    No, I am getting a proper wing-tip collar shirt to wear with the tux, along with proper tuxedo shoes, black silk bowtie, etc. This photo was just to see if the tux fit.

    Thank you for the tip about closing the center vent. I did not know that. I am trying to be a "traditionalist" actually when it comes to tuxes. I was raised that with black tie, one either follows the rules, or just avoids it. No half-hearted half-way point, in other words.


    also, here is the same tux on a mannequin, if that helps to determine if it is too big or not.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     


  10. johnvw

    johnvw Distinguished Member

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    Thank you for your response. No, I am not a tailor, just a regular SF member who has tried to absorb at least some of the guidelines for determining proper fit. Maybe one or more of the tailors on the forum will weigh in with expert opinions on the fit. If you have not already done so, you may want to consult www.blacktieguide.com for advice on black tie wear. Enjoy the event!
     


  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior Member

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    The pants look too long. Sleeves on the jacket appear short but that's probably because of the long shirt sleeves. I'd close the vent if you're looking for trad. I'd also wear a spread collar with french cuff pleated front shirt and cummerbund/vest. No wingtip collar. That's for white tie.
     


  12. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior Member

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    when you entered the order, did they allow you to account for erect posture?

    Yes, the sleeves are too short. Jacket is possibly short as well. High exposure on pics is not necessary.
    Otherwise, you just may have very flat back erect posture. There could be too much fullness of fabric across the back. Next time, get it pressed before taking photos. You'd be amazed at the difference pressing makes in total fit.
     


  13. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior Member

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    IMHO, you need an entirely different pattern. This suit started life as some "fashion" slim-fit thing and that just will not work on your body type. I would work with the tailor to see if they have a conservative pattern to work from. That means the jacket, when buttoned, hovers around the top of the inseam and is not multiple inches above it. I'd also go with a 2 button with wider lapels. The pants should have a wider leg and, while it isn't popular around these parts, given your body type, you should probably have a least a single pleat to give you more room in the seat and give the pants a nice drape. Lastly, I'd go to a local tailor and get your measurements taken again and cross-check them against what the on-line tailor is using because something isn't right.

    I am glad they are giving you a remake, because that is one of the worst looking suits I have seen in quite a while (and badly made - give them hell about the mismatched pseudo roped shoulder seem on one side versus the bald one on the right - really amateur tailoring if you ask me).
     


  14. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Distinguished Member

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    Can someone explain the approximate cost and jacket surgery involved with rotating sleeves at the shoulder? I've sorta come to terms with the fact that my arms hang at a forward angel from the shoulder, rather than straight down like most folks. causes constant ripples/ wrinkles on the upper sleeves on many jackets/ suits, not sure how to remedy. thanks!
     


  15. Tanager

    Tanager New Member

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    I purchased the following suit on impulse from the J.C. Penney clearance rack. Any feedback regarding the fit is greatly appreciated. The sleeves are clearly too long, and there is some asymmetry in the shoulders. The jacket is a 36S; I was wondering if I may have been better off with a 34 (which didn't appear to be available).

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     


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