The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. adric10

    adric10 Member

    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2011
    Location:
    State College, PA
    Hi gents,

    Total noob here and just getting into buying

    better clothing, so please pardon my ignorance on some of these matters.

    I'm starting a new job in the autumn as a professor, so I'm trying to create a more professorly wardrobe. I've never bought from Brooks Brothers before, but I got their email about their big sale last week, so I ordered a few items from them -- but since I'm about a 3 hour drive from the nearest BB location, I couldn't go in and try on any of their clothes before ordering, so I did my best guess at what might be my size in their wares. I ordered a 41R Fitzgerald fit sportcoat (corduroy, since that's what professors wear when they don't wear tweed, I understand) and a 16/33 shirt.

    For the sportcoat, I *think* it looks like it fits correctly in the shoulders, but I could use some expert eyes on it. Also, it seem a tad long to me, and maybe a bit full in the chest (I understood that Fitzgerald was one of their slimmer fitting cuts, so I went with 41 instead of 40 to be on the safe side) -- can anyone tell me how the shoulders are working here, and if this is indeed a bit long, or if it's my imagination? Also, sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.

    [​IMG]

    Next, I got a shirt, which I think is awesome looking -- but it looks like the shoulder seam droops past where they should (see arrow). Am I right on this?
    [​IMG]

    If I wanted correct the shoulder issue on my next shirt, which measurement should I bring in -- the neck or sleeve length? The 16 neck fit nearly perfectly (2 fingers went in) and the sleeves were maybe a *hair* too long, but might not be after shrinkage.

    Any (constructive) advice is helpful!
     
  2. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

    Messages:
    4,542
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    
    Probably slight collar gap - fixable. The upper back needs work. It seems to need a slightly lower button stance. Too short (slightly), as often happens with SuitSupply. Sleeves are too long. It would look good if all those problems were fixed.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2013
  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,897
    Likes Received:
    4,745
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    Thank you for the feedback, just what I thought! How would the upper back be fixed?
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2013
  4. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

    Messages:
    4,542
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Let a tailor figure that out.

    Also, one shoulder looks lower than the other, which requires a jacket alteration.
     
  5. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

    Messages:
    4,542
    Likes Received:
    104
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    
    Yes, those are valid issues. Also, the jacket collar arguably is too high. Frankly, the suit looks bad. The stomach protrusion is highlighted - some of that might be a fit issue. Also, the lapels are disproportionately narrow, and if a patterned suit would have been situationally appropriate. dark gray or navy blue with pinstripes would have camouflaged the weight better. Adding to the poor impression is the excess shirt sleeve length.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2013
  6. hoodog

    hoodog Senior member

    Messages:
    1,456
    Likes Received:
    705
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2012
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Esteemed tailors and gents. This is my first fit post in this thread and I'd really like you to comment this SC i just picked up today. I will be taking it to my tailor next week and I'd like to know what you guys think I should have done to it? Obviously, the sleeves will be shortened, but other than that, what do you think? Do you think the coat is too short for a SC? What about the button stance?

    Thanks so much for all your help in advance! I really appreciate any feedback that you can take your time to give me.

    Cheers


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2013
  7. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Likes Received:
    68
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    
    Sleeves shortened and call it a day. Everything else looks fine. Couldn't go any shorter that's for sure.
     
  8. hoodog

    hoodog Senior member

    Messages:
    1,456
    Likes Received:
    705
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2012
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Awesome. Thanks so much for your feedback!
     
  9. ZirconiumZephyr

    ZirconiumZephyr Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    69
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2012
    Just posting up my kent wang trial suit for feedback. It is going to be totally remade as a midnight blue, one button, shawl tuxedo so certain parts may change fitwise but hopefully I can get good enough idea from the trial suit.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Pants are obviously way to tight around the seat, is anyone able to give some advise on exactly what measurements to increase? The waist is fine but I have rather large thighs and find pants are very tight when I sit down. Would pleats fix this?

    As far as the jacket, it feels a little baggy in the chest area but I am wary of making it too tight. As my suit will be one button only, I am aiming to move it around midway between the two on this trial suit which would make it level with my umbilicus.

    Really appreciate any comments :)
     
  10. scottcw

    scottcw Senior member

    Messages:
    1,092
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2009
    Location:
    Supportland
    I have an alteration question. I took some sportcoats to my local tailor for hand sewn buttonholes on the sleeve. Two of them came out great, but I think a different person did this one. The holes are not cut parallel to each other, the button spacing is off, the cuts don't start and end evenly and even the stitching is different (some have a keyhole, some have a sideways "p" and some are just gashes).

    My tailor says to bring it in for him to fix, but I would like confirmation that these can even be fixed. Thanks in advance.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2013
  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Likes Received:
    68
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    

    I don't know how someone can fix those holes.
     
  12. scottcw

    scottcw Senior member

    Messages:
    1,092
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2009
    Location:
    Supportland
    

    I can only think they are going to reweave the holes shut and start over. I am not sure how that would look, though I have seen some amazing reweaving.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2013
  13. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

    Messages:
    1,108
    Likes Received:
    244
    Joined:
    May 4, 2011
    Can I get some feedback on which of these vests fits best? These are trial vests for an MTM suit. One is a 42, one is a 44. My chest measures 43 inches. I could probably get away with either vest, but as I've never owned a three-piece suit, I'm not entirely sure how a vest should fit. The 42 is snug but not tight, but I think it's a bit short. The 44 is noticeably looser around the torso and would probably need some adjustments. However, it fits fine in the chest and I like the length of it better than the 42.

    42:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    44:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Shoeluv

    Shoeluv Senior member

    Messages:
    1,803
    Likes Received:
    1,612
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2013
    Location:
    Music City
    So questioning everything here, I went to BB and tried on a few jackets. The salesman told me I was a 44R, so of course I went out and purchased 5 jackets from EBay that were 44R. I learned my lesson when 1 came in with sleeves 4 inches to short...

    Anyway, I am now unsure if I am even a 44R and if I should bother getting anything fixed. So I will post one of the jackets. This is a Burberry, I would not be crushed if it doesn't work out, I paid $30 for it and am just building up my wardrobe and seeing what I like. So my thought was it seems to fit except it needs taken in at the waist a bit.

    [​IMG]

    Is it worth tailoring, or should I just re-sell it on EBay and get a different size?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Shoeluv

    Shoeluv Senior member

    Messages:
    1,803
    Likes Received:
    1,612
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2013
    Location:
    Music City
    In the first picture of Hoodog's, the jacket seems to be open a lot where the second button is and you can see the shirt below the top button. Is this normal? I ask because I have a navy blue blazer that does this, and it makes me a little paranoid when my tie pokes out of it sometimes. Most of the problem is I am just starting to dress in coats and ties so not used to them. I just wanted to be sure that it was fitting properly.

    Thank you.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2013

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by