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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, have had a tailor take in the sides so less blousy. Did a good job and fits me better. Don't know about the chest though.
     
  2. bbob2013

    bbob2013 Senior member

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    Here are two top down photos that might illustrate the issue better. One has the side seam high lighted as it's hard to see on the original photo:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. atoms

    atoms Senior member

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    bbob2013, Google "jeans twisting" and you'll run into all kinds of stuff.
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is the way almost every trouser leg is cut. The width of the back part is 1 to 1 1/2" bigger than the front panel and this difference increases at the upper part of the leg. It's normal. A few times I have cut the front and back the same width at the knee and bottom but to achieve a certain effect
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It can be. Have known alteration shops in big stores like Neiman Marcus to have the same machines used to make sweaters to keep the seams as original. Without the specific machine I would think you need to use a serger with a lock stitch. Sweaters stretch and the seam needs elasticity. Haven't done this and I don't want to learn to do this but I think that is how it could be done. Know someone who had sweaters altered at the women's store St Johns. They made ladies knitwear and knew how to work on knit materials. Not sure if they are still around.
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Those aren't divots on top of the shoulder. Those bumps are very hard to adjust for and create a clean shoulder line. Sizing probably won't make a difference.
     
  7. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    What @Despos said is correct. I have a 4 thread household serger that I use for exactly this reason. The better option would be the machine that naturally seams up the sweater in the first place, the 4 thread serger (it's technically 3 thread with the 4th being a mock safety stitch). I thrifted a few old cashmere sweaters so I could do my work in the not so warm part of the building where my shop area is. They were super blousy. Since they were just for working around in, I just sent em on through the serger and it worked out just fine.
     
  8. sean anon

    sean anon Senior member

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    I am looking at a Sportcoat to thrift that is listed a 20" across the shoulders. It is a lightly padded Samuelsohn.

    I measure 19.5" by a tailor and in trendier cuts I have SCs which measure 19" across the shoulders

    Will this be a problem for the fit?
     
  9. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

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    Pull out a tape measure and look at 1/4 inch. This is the difference at each shoulder. If the length is good, you should have no problem. If you are a hipster and wear things really snug, you might worry. :)
     
  10. bbob2013

    bbob2013 Senior member

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    Wow you weren't kidding I ran into all kinds of info about leg twist! Apparently it's a hot topic around with the denim crowd, and a desirable feature for some. Here is a great technical definition that is exactly what I am experiencing:

    "Twisted leg(s) occur when the fabric moves more than 2.54 centimeters (1 inch) out of alignment in the leg of a garment from the knee to the garment hem. This garment condition occurs in garment finishing and most often not observed until the final pressing stage. There are numerous causes for leg twist, including improper cutting and sewing practices and incorrect skew control in fabric finishing "

    My issue is, I had a pair of pants made based on a pair of jeans that had leg twist. Love the fit and want to order more (Luxire). How can I best communicate this to prevent and/or correct the pattern? Think It would just be easier to give measurements from this pair for fit and have a scratch pair made?

    (I have put an email out to them for feedback, still awaiting reply)

    Thanks!
     
  11. sean anon

    sean anon Senior member

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    Right, thanks! Maybe I am concerned I am actually a 19" or that I do have a bit of hipster in me still. I guess it is impossible to answer without trying it. I just hate to buy and return. I it hard for me to imagine how it will look.
     
  12. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Depending on where you're buying it, that measurement is speculative. Is it an MTM from a previous client? Is it RTW?
    If you actually measure 19.5 by a tailor, your chest is probably between 43 and 45 (a guess). A 20" p2p is usually seen on a 44 off the rack. Sometimes 44's have 19.5" shoulders but usually 20 to 20.5 even in the case of a canali or similar cut. If it was mtm and the p2p is 20", you need to ask some questions to see what the chest was, as well.
     
  13. sean anon

    sean anon Senior member

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    Thanks for the reply

    I assume it was not MTM but I don't know. I am thrifting it off EBAY for cheap

    The seller has it listed as Chest 44", sleeves 25", Shoulder 20" and Length 32" from bottom of collar

    I have been measured at 42" Chest, 25" sleeves, 19.5 shoulders and other jackets I have are between 30" and 32" (this is more on the suit side for me). I am 6'1 and 190 pounds

    Some of my trendier sportcoats seem to be more like 19" and shorter but I want something basic for (rare for me) conservative occasions.

    I am a bit worried about the shoulders having me swimming and less so that it is a bit long. Also wonder if this will have low and large armholes. I do like the very classic and not out-of-date lapel look and the potential to change the buttons to horn and have it tailored a bit

    Listed as Super 110's wool Samuelsohn. Thoughts?

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2014
  14. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Would just about guarantee it has a large and low armhole. Based on description, it sounds like a 44L with shortened sleeves. No matter what you're looking for, this jacket is meant to come off as classic and probably wouldn't work well trying to make it "trendy" as far as fit is concerned. Also, the true chest measure is likely not a 44 but more like 46-48. If it's a 44 jacket, the over chest measure is greater. If it is smaller than a 44, the point to point is probably less than listed. If you don't measure it right you get different numbers. It had to be measured up and over the neck seam to Seam. Straight across is in accurate. Does it have a size tag?
     
  15. sean anon

    sean anon Senior member

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    Oddly it is tagged 40 L. This is in a photo.

    The measurments don't seem to make sense. Assuming they are correct I am still wondering if this will fit me well with the construction. I am not looking for trendy and want something conservative but also workout and don't want to look bad.

    It is only $40 but I'd rather not waste my time
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2014
  16. TJhambone09

    TJhambone09 Senior member

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    Tailors - help! I effed up! Not quite an alteration question, more like a repair. I posted this in the quick question thread and only got one responder, so I'd like a few more opinions.

    So because I was in a rush, I used scissors to open a package. You all can see where this is going...

    [​IMG]

    The slice measures exactly 1/8" long, on the back of the collar right near the top where the collar folds over. The hole is through-and-through so I can't just flip the collar (as someone else suggested since this is an OCBD). I don't care about the bottom hole as that will always be covered, I'll just stitch it up so it doesn't fray, but I'm concerned about the top one that will be visible. Is a reweave necessary, or is this small enough that can be discreetly stitched up?

    I don't care about it being completely invisible, because if someone is staring at your neck close enough to notice a 1/8" slice, that's kind of weird. But, I'd like it to not be noticeable from a reasonable distance.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2014
  17. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    A 40 L would have about a 44" chest. The measurement for the p2p is probably not taken correctly. The off the rack standard range for most brands in a 40L 'classic fit' is going to be 18.75" and 19.25"
     
  18. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Reweaving will cost more than the shirt. You could either try to have machine darned but that may make it more obvious than it already is.
    The other option is to use something like fray check to coat the hole so that it doesn't fray anymore. Trim away any tiny fuzzies and apply the fray check to the edge of the hole. You could even go just a bit farther by attaching a piece of shirting fabric on the underside of the collar where the hole is using some fusible fabric fusion type glue. The whole idea is to use something that will completely prevent further fraying. Then, thru the normal washing lifespan, the cotton will shrink and be pressed often enough to generally make the hole unnoticeable.

    My other piece of advise is to not watch Edward Scissorhands before opening your new shirts...
     
  19. TJhambone09

    TJhambone09 Senior member

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    Much appreciated, I will try that. I assume I can get the fray check at any general fabric store?

    And, your advise is duly noted! It came in one of those supposedly untearable shipping bags so I had to break out the scissors. The bag was barely big enough to fit the shirt so the collar was pressed right up against the edge. Coupled with it being my first RLPL bought for myself, it was a sitting duck.
     
  20. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Any fabric store or wawak.com

     

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