The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. scottcw

    scottcw Senior member

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    I can't get a good fit picture of this jacket, but hopefully this shows the issue... I took this Poole jacket to my tailor to have the shoulders narrowed and slim the overall fit. It seemed fine when I picked it up until I got home and buttoned it to discover that the left side of the jacket is pulling to the left. In the picture, you can see that the back seam runs to the left of the buttons, the pinstripes are all slanted on the left side (your right in the picture) and the pocket is even an inch further around the back of the jacket than the right side, which ends just at the edge of the jacket. I measure that the left side is off-center by about 2.5".

    A couple of questions. Any idea how this went so wrong? Can it be fixed? Would you trust this tailor to take in the chest, waist and hip on other jackets?

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    Last edited: Apr 22, 2013
  2. louloufafa

    louloufafa Senior member

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    Hi gents! I just got my first MTM suit from black lapel. Please critique the fit. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks!


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    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  3. radchad3

    radchad3 Active Member

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    Hello all! Looking for suggestions on this Kent Wang trial suit. I am thinking something has to be done in the armpit area but not sure what? Chest needs a little but more room. Lower the button stance 1.5 to 2 cm. Shorten the sleeves slightly. Thank you all for your input!!
     
  4. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Sounds like you got those issues fixed but as pictured, I'd work on cleaning up the back a little, perhaps adjusting the sleeve pitch. The sleeves look short. I'd reduce the stride, slim the trouser leg, and adjust the hem accordingly as it'd be too long with a narrower leg. These latter suggestions are a little bit based on preference.
     
  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    1.5" is standard. Anything less than that looks a little skimpy. Anything higher and you're pushing the style boundaries for your height, but are you confident enough to wear it? If you like it and you're confident, get it done.
    Regarding the alteration, the answer is not really much you can do. It's tight across the back and there's probably very little outlet at the CB seam to change that. You can have your tailor check, though. Tough with prominent blades.
     
  6. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Even if the chest were a little big as you say, the protrusion would generally occur outward, not sink downward which is what causes the vertical creasing. Since the cloth is collapsing downward, it's really indicated of a sloping shoulder issue or prominent chest/blades collapsing the armhole and forcing the material downward. Have someone stand behind you and pull up and back on the very edge of the shoulder seam area. You should see those creases go away.
    Reducing the chest isn't very easy because no seams easily bisect the chest area. The nearest seam is the underarm dart which when taken in also decreases the armhole circumference. You can't do that without not good results. The chest shape is more or less fixed.
     
  7. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    I think you need jackets with wider point to point because it looks like the narrowness of the shoulder spread is forcing a long front balance. Sleeves are also way too short.
     
  8. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Get the jacket suppressed at the side seams to clean up the back and hem the trousers. They're too long. Have you tailor check out the back balance. It looks long but it may be fine especially post-suppression
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    PM me and give me more details/pics please
     
  10. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    It looks pretty good to me overall. The armpit area may be tight from prominent chest. I think there's a balance issue like you need a longer front balance. Will echo the chest room issue and button stance is preference. Right sleeve is the only on that looks a bit long.
     
  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    This looks pretty good. Only flaws look to be a bit of tightness across the upper back and an issue near the seat of the trousers. Overall, not bad.
     
  12. bodhizero

    bodhizero New Member

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    I'm planning on shortening the sleeves an inch or two and bringing in the waist. I'm mainly concerned about what, if anything, needs to be done with the back, the pucker at the button, and the gap at the chest. Note that the pants aren't hemmed -- the odd break is from all the extra length hiding underneath. I can get better quality photos if needed.


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  13. blc456

    blc456 Senior member

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    Hello Tailors,

    Thanks for all the help and feedback in this thread, Just reading through it helps me learn about various issues/fixes :)

    I feel like this jacket fits me pretty well, but I seem to have some collar gap at the back of the neck that is fairly noticeable most of the time. It also feels like it is sitting low on my collar. Do you see anything that could be causing the collar gap? Any other suggestions?

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  14. jboy718727

    jboy718727 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the help OTCtailor. Unfortunately those jackets were already bought and I'm a poor college grad... Is there any way to save them or make it look a little better to the basic eye?
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2013
  15. guyute82

    guyute82 Member

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    OTC Tailor - any thoughts on my grey Black Lapel suit? Pictures one or two pages back... (EDIT: Page 209]

    Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2013

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