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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Hendricks433

    Hendricks433 Member

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    I've been looking for a cheaper first suit for a while(wear one maybe 2 times a year). I was browsing a Jcrew Factory store yesterday to kill time and some how found a navy suit and they had one pair of pants in a 30/30 that fit me(Felt like a miracle, need to get them slim'd down though). I got it for $153 with discounts. How does this fit? Its a 38S and the body of the jacket seems on the short side but they didnt have a 38R. Also I see an issue with my left should and I have that with virtually every jacket I've tried on in my search for a suit. If I keep it what I should I get done?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
  2. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    The second one is too short, and I don't like the closed quarters. The first one looks nice though.
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  3. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    Hendrick's433, that looks pretty good to me for OTR. The sleeves look like they need to be shortened a bit. My only criticism of it would be stylistic: the lapels are skinny and the length looks a little short. But you may like those details, which are trendy now.
    Sorry I missed this earlier, S. JD and CD know much, much, much, more about tailoring than I do. The only thing I know about your question is that generally it's more time-consuming to do it with the side seam than the center seam, since it involves twice the cutting and sewing. In fact, some places charge twice the amount to do the alteration w/ the side seams. I'm not sure which is best. Variables in one's physique and the jacket's cut may determine that. It could even be that at times it's best to have all three done.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  4. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    thanks for the reply, m.

    interesting stuff. i learned that with waist suppression you should go side seam or you throw off the vents. i have a jacket i need to take out, and there is no extra fabric in the side, only the back, and i am hoping that doing it that way will be ok. my tailor seemed fine with it, but i was looking for any and all opinions. also, if i dont like how it looks/feels, i can always have her take it back to the way it was.
     
  5. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Fat tends to accumulate toward the sides of the waist , not in the middle of your back, so that is where adjustments for girth should really be done. Alteration tailors who mess with the center back seam to adjust the waist are generally being lazy, except in the case of sway back.
     
    2 people like this.
  6. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    thanks, jeffery! that is a great point.

    this tailor has done adjustments from the side for me before, and i was hoping to that again. but in this case it turns out there is just no extra fabric there, only about and inch of excess fabric in the center back seam. any reason to think this wont at all be effective or that it would mess up the jacket?
     
  7. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Depends on the original shape of the CB seam. Will it be effective in increasing the girth? Yes. Is it ideal? Not really, but it is better than the opposite, that is to say, suppressing the waist at CB which tends to create a mess. It's also better than not being able to wear it at all.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If I may contribute here. If you need more across the front to comfortably button the jacket, letting out the center back is as far from where you need the cloth as you can get. If the center back seam is the only cloth available, you don't have much choice. Sometimes I will square the front shoulder at the neck to pull the cloth over the stomach and only if it doesn't effect the balance.
    It helps move the cloth where you need it but doesn't always work since if you have a belly you need more length over the fronts.
     
    2 people like this.
  9. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    you guys are awesome. seriously. its stuff like this that makes SF so great. i really appreciate the answers, JD and CD. thank you both very much.
     
  10. iLLmAtiCiAn

    iLLmAtiCiAn Senior member

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    Wondering if it is possible to make a dress shirt slightly larger in the body? Maybe like half an inch or maybe an inch?
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^
    Nope. No outlet of extra cloth to work from in shirts
     
  12. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

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    If you have darts, you can let them out.

    Otherwise, no.
     
  13. iLLmAtiCiAn

    iLLmAtiCiAn Senior member

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    would moving the buttons a small amount work?
     
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Depends where you need the extra room and how much extra room you need. Try, nothing to lose


    moving the buttons on the front will create an awkward looking shirt as everything is centered.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2014
  15. hombreingwar

    hombreingwar Member

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    Happy New Year!
    My winter coat flares out at the bottom, I guess it's not normal? but fixable?
    Size smaller still flares out but in a less pronounced way. Thanks!
    [​IMG]
    http://i.imgur.com/IHCcspd.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2014
  16. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not much to go on from one side view that doesn't reveal much. Most often flaring of the skirt is related to balance issues but I think this one would improve by reducing the hip area of the coat. Coat balance looks like it has both a short front and back balance. Not 100% certain from the one picture provided
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2014
  17. hombreingwar

    hombreingwar Member

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    Thank you, I updated the photo (added frontal and the other side photo)
     
  18. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    What does the jacket do when it's unbuttoned? Can you get pics of that?
     
  19. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Very short front balance. Proper fix is to open side seams, drop the back (shortening it) about 1 1/2" (maybe more). Reducing the front only at the side seams to take out excess cloth. If you only reduce the fronts and not shift the side seams the front will fly away more than it does already. You have a very low right shoulder that is contributing to the flare. That's why the left flares more than the right side.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2014
  20. aspasp

    aspasp Senior member

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    anyone know a good tailor in NYC for a peacoat. Billy reid Bond Peacoat
     

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