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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Last edited: Nov 8, 2013
  2. ss4vegeta786

    ss4vegeta786 New Member

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    Hey guys, I just bought this suit online. Any comments/critique on the fit would be very helpful as well as any tailoring/alteration advice. Thank you so much!

    Edit: If the pictures aren't very helpful, please let me know and I'll try my best taking a few better ones.
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    Last edited: Nov 10, 2013
  3. Leader12

    Leader12 Member

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    Hello All,

    I need some suggestions on how to fix this suit. Overall im happy with the results and I cant complain since i paid 160 bucks to have it made here in my country (Tailoring is really cheap here). Its a navy blue MTM suit, but I need to mostly fix the side sleeve creasing/wrinkles. When i move my arm forward they go away, so assume that the sleeve must be taken off and have it rotated (sleeve pitch). Also, what do you think about trimming the sides a little bit? to have is look more like a )( shape, would it mess up the back somehow?.

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  4. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Apologies of this has been asked before, but please see the necklines of the suits of the two gentlemen below. The neckline of the suit on the right seems to be going up higher. Is that just a matter of that gentlemen having a more developed traps or can that be created by a tailor?


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  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    the guy on the right has shoulders that are more sloped which is what you're referring to. A tailor can have something like that made, but if your shoulders are more square than sloped it's not something you can or should do.
    What you can do is have a jacket made with little to no construction in the shoulder or perhaps a pagoda shoulder to create the illusion of slope for flattery but it's not an operation every tailor has the skill to accomplish.
     
  6. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Here's my latest MTM coat. I think it's pretty good, specially from the front, but the back seems a little short, and as a result, the bottom is being pulled away from my seat. For a next commission, besides making the jacket a bit longer overall, I would maybe slightly drop the fronts from the top (making the coat shorter from the bottom the same amount so the hem stays parallel to the ground), but what do I need to ask for to fix the back?


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    Keep in mind the extra room in the chest is there on purpose, coat was made to allow good range of movement.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2013
  7. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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    Diaz that looks pretty good! I agree that the length is a bit short for my taste but a great look in the shoulder, chest, and arm. Great jacket!
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes you need more length on the back over the blades. Notice the horizontal line of the plaid over your left blade has more curve than the right. Your left blade is much more prominent than the right. The large blade is what makes the wrinkles under your arm on the left side. Would lengthen the back 1/2" or so straight across the top of the back shoulder, Add 1/4" on the front shoulder at the neck point only, not the shoulder point. Some hand/iron work to work the back skye short. Don't add anything to the right shoulder. well just maybe 1/4" at the neck point on the back of the right shoulder.
    If your tailor thinks he should slope the left shoulder to clean up the blade, he's wrong.


    Not sure how this will effect the front/back balance. You are borderline on having a short front. This may or may not be easy to translate to your maker.
     
  9. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Thank you Despos. Yeah, I know the coat borders on having a short front, so I was thinking of dropping it a tiny wee bit to allow some leeway for posture changes throughout the day. I like the hem to be parallel to the ground but I could ask to shorten from the bottom as much as it's dropped from the top. It looks like I'm one of those people who need both a longer front and back to achieve proper balance.

    I'm not sure your suggestions can be carried out to the MTM maker, but I'll try. I think the form has spaces for indicating amount of "stoop-edness" and dropping fronts/back, but I don't think they can do anything with the front shoulder at the neck point. Will ask the tailor, though.

    The prominent blade explanation makes sense, as the vent looks a bit better from the other side of the coat, actually!

    Thank you very much.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2013
  10. SteveSamson51

    SteveSamson51 Member

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    Hi Matt, congrats 90%!
    Just trim up the leg and maybe show pix again with the arms down and more light. One of the back please.
    surely you must have an assistant to take a pix in your den?
     
  11. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Oh by the way, I'd like to ask if there's a way to minimize the effects of a short back without opening up the entire top of the coat, to fix this garment. I'd feel like I'm bothering my tailor because after all it was my fault for not standing correctly at the "fitting". I'd be happy if the bottom kicked out a bit less. Can it be corrected at the side seams somehow?
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2013
  12. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    As you know, the back kicks out because of the back balance being a bit short. So, even if you take it in at the side seams or any other seam, it will still kick out....it'll just be tighter.
    The kick out is caused by tension starting at the top of the CB seam trying to travel over your blades with not enough total length. Despos' recommended fix of opening up the top, moving the back neckpoint etc is the best fix. Somehow, additional length has to find its way over your blades from the top. The shortness of the jacket itself has much less to do with the kickout than insufficient length at the top.

    I do all MTM myself when it comes to 'custom' clothing. The rest of my business is alterations. I don't cut and sew bespoke like Despos. The importance of that is that there may or may not be a way to communicate what is needed to your tailor or whoever provided the MTM jacket to fix the balance issue in future garments. Even if there is a way, it might have to be communicated differently from one MTM maker to the other.

    In other words, no one can exactly advise you as to what to tell your tailor to tell his MTM maker to do in order to fix future commissions.
     
  13. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    The advanced fixes Despos has proposed are probably not doable (though I will try to communicate it), but there are options to drop both the fronts and the back from the shoulder when ordering. I guess that would at least provide some more fabric over the blades for a better result.

    I think I will also try to get this jacket fixed even if it involves opening up the whole top. I like it way too much! My tailor would probably want to do it free of charge (he usually does that for his MTM), but since it was mostly my fault, I'll pay for it, I don't care. I just hope there's enough allowance at the shoulder seams to drop the back a little...

    He does bespoke, so I think he's competent enough to do it, more so if I pay extra for it.

    Thank you :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2013
  14. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    That's what I thought - many thanks.
     
  15. Terpo

    Terpo Senior member

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    These are my first (online) MTM pants (basically just took a pair of well/fitting ones for measurement). As they have no belt loops the fit around the waist is even more important and I definitely need to have them altered there. Otherwise, I have very little experience with the fit of pants so would appreciate any comments on what I can do to have them altered and how to get the specs right for my next pair.

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  16. eebbca

    eebbca New Member

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    Gentleman,

    I would greatly your help in adjusting my measurements for 'Round-2' of a ModernTailor MTM shirt. At 6'4" and 180 lbs, OTR shirts have always been too bulky for my thin frame (I felt like I was a twin mattress in a king-size sheet). This is my first MTM shirt (per recommendations on this site, thank you btw), and it was basically a frankestein of measurements I took from various different shirts. It fits better than any shirt I've owned, but is still far from perfect.


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    A few targeted questions I have:

    1) The horizontal pucker/fold below front of collar (visible in front and side view zooms) - what is causing it, how do I get rid of it?

    2) Diagonal fold lines from lower pectoral toward side of waist - what is causing, how do I get rid of it?

    3) Fold lines on sleeve near armpit - what is causing, how do I get rid of it?

    4) (side view) The fold behind my shoulder, at the rear of the deltoid - what is causing, how do I get rid of it?

    5) Yoke and shoulder seam correct? Sleeve length correct?

    6) Any other advice regarding fit. Again, this shirt is a Frankenstein of measurements. Please glance again at the pictures and let me know if there is anything I should alter for Round 2.


    Regards,
    Erik
     
  17. masaccio

    masaccio Senior member

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    Looking for some advice on these pants I picked up recently. They were altered by the previous owner, and I clearly need some alterations to make them work for me.

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    These are tagged 36 and I am generally a 34 and the waist fits fairly comfortably, so I believe they have been taken in at the waist and they have been tapered or slimmed all through the leg quite a bit.

    I'm especially interested in figuring out how to clean up the seat, assuming it can be.

    In case it's relevant they are a wool/cashmere blend PRL by Corneliani.
     
  18. Terpo

    Terpo Senior member

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    What do you think of the fit of this SC, apart from the sleeves, which need a little trim?

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  19. drew959

    drew959 Member

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    I got this suit from WW Chan and would appreciate some feedback. The main issues that I can see are:

    - back of the jacket needs to be tidied up but not sure how to suggest this
    - something wrong with the arm hole from the back? They are quite high and said that a higher armhole would be uncomfortable.
    - jacket is a 3/2 roll but the lapel roll goes to the first button not the second
    - button stance is too high which I dont like but understand this cant be fixed

    The trousers I am pretty happy with (I wore these all day so are a bit wrinkled). I only had time for 2 fittings so will send back for any adjustments.

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  20. ayog

    ayog Member

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    Hey everyone.

    So I returned the baumler suit and I decided I might get this tombolini one instead!

    What do you think needs to be done to this jacket, I want a slim well tailored look.

    Thanks

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