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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    I think I have it. Thanks!
     


  2. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Yep shorten the sleeves up is about all you need to do that I can tell from your pics. Are you in Harrisburg, pa?
     


  3. Winterbourne

    Winterbourne Senior member

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    Thanks. As for the pants, is that little bit of bunching up at the bottom fine?

    I'm actually in the Cumberland County area but have to go to Harrisburg occasionally.
     


  4. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    Was it windy when you took these pics?
    That might give a false impression because the legs might be blown up against your ankles.
    However, assuming no wind(ie. if it looks like this pic without it), the ankles look a bit narrow
    but it is all made worse by the shoes which look clunky and unrefined. There are a few favorites on the board which
    I find to be quite ugly in the shoe department. I do not know if you are one of those who like this look or this is just what you have.
    Anyway, I am also surprised OTC did not comment on what I saw as a bit of pull at your top button but he is wiser
    than I and maybe this is all from the wind.
    I do think that overall it looks pretty good in cut, etc. Mostly just nitpicking though I do take a bit of a serious issue with the shoes.
     


  5. Winterbourne

    Winterbourne Senior member

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    I think it was a tad windy which might have skewed the pictures a little. And yes the shoes are certainly big. I guess that's expected with the Barrie last, though. Once they're broken in I imagine they'll look better.
     


  6. pendragon

    pendragon Senior member

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    I think it's actually the narrow leg on the pants that makes the shoes look clunky rather than the other way around. Not that it's a problem. It reminds me of the old skinhead look of my yoof.

    However, while the suit fits okay, the sloped shoulders seem to make your head look very long. You might try a shirt with a larger collar to balance it better.
     


  7. Winterbourne

    Winterbourne Senior member

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    Hmm, yeah now that you mention it this suit does seem to accentuate my sloped shoulders, which no other article of clothing seems to create this effect (at least not as drastically). I'm wondering if these slim fit suits just don't work that well with my body's structure. I'm 5'10 180lbs., fairly athletic, but this blazer appears to make my upper body look shrunk a little bit if that makes any sense. I will make due with this now and maybe not let my arms hang so limply at my side while wearing it. And I'll likely visit OTCtailor next time to get a better idea of what works better for me.
     


  8. Veridis

    Veridis Well-Known Member

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    Hello Gentlemen, I've recently bought a 3 piece suit from Indochino, and am considering doing a remake.

    I'm 5'3" and 120lbs.
    I'm quite happy with the pants but I prefer the jacket to be on the shorter side.
    And the vest looks a little too long compared to photos of Indochino models.

    I was thinking along these lines:

    Jacket sleeve: -0.5"
    Jacket length: -1.5"
    Vest length: -1"


    Any comments or suggestions will be really appreciated! I have a limited amount of time left to do a remake.


    Here are some photos:




    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  9. trailer36

    trailer36 Senior member

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    Hey Winterbourne, good to see another Cumberland County resident on here! I am in Mechanicsburg myself. I use 2 people around her for my alteration so if you are interested, drop me a PM and we can discuss.
     


  10. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    jacket and vest length looks fine. You can cut sleeve either .5 or .25 if the vest is any shorter it will not cover your belt.
     


  11. Veridis

    Veridis Well-Known Member

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    I know the jacket length is the standard, but would it hurt to have it shortened 1-1.5"? It feels a little overpowering for my short frame.
    Oh, and does the small inverted "V" in front of the vest have to cover the belt as well?

    I read on the forums that the jacket needs to cover the ass, but I couldn't find much about vest fit.

    My reference is the photo on Indochino's website:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    It seems that the vest barely covers the belt. Then again, there is a possibility of Indochino's models wearing them too short.. hmm.

    Thank you for reading :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2013


  12. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    well, it's a personal preference thing then, 1.5 inch is a lot consider where the jacket is now. Wouldn't the jacket be almost the same length as your sleeve (you can do a quick measurement), even BBBF is not that short. I don't think it will look good, if you really want to cut it, then perhaps 0.5 inch? The vest photo from Indochina is already too short for my taste. If you want to show buckle on your belt, then you can cut shorter, but my personal preference is to show absolutely no belt when wearing a vest (plus I don't wear belt anyway, but different story).
     


  13. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    Vests and belts are kind of tricky. Remember the basic function of a vest is to cover your trouser-holder-uppers - but when vests were actually invented and commonly worn, your trouser-holder-uppers were suspenders, not a belt. There really isn't a 'correct' fit for a vest in relation to a belt, because vests weren't really designed to be worn with belts; if they were, they wouldn't have that notch.

    I think some authorities just say you oughtn't to wear a vest with a belt (it can expand your waistline, apart from anything else), but if you're going to, I don't think there's a Rule concerning how long it should be or how much it should cover your belt, exactly; since it's not a strictly traditionally correct approach, if you're going to do it, you get a bit of flexibility concerning exactly how you do it.

    MHO, anyway :)
     


  14. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    if his vest is shorter, the notch will show exactly the buckle, guess if that's the effect he wants, then go for it, I personally wouldn't.
     


  15. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Your trousers should come up to roughly your natural waist, and the vest cover the waistband of the trousers. No belt, and no hip-huggers. If you're not down with that kind of fit, then you should reconsider the three-piece.
     


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