The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. gthoren

    gthoren New Member

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    Hi!

    Just recieved my new Caruso blazer (EU 48 9R) from YOOX. I would love som advice for alterations.

    The blazer fits great. The only thing I might change is to shorten the sleeves a bit. Do you think it looks good over the shoulders (I'm specially reffering to the back-photo)?


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  2. Hacking jacket

    Hacking jacket Senior member

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    For pre-alterations/reconstruction this looks really good. Needs shape.
     
  3. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

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    Well if that's pre taylor all my compliments for the picking !!! It does look excellent on you!
    Trousairs are perfect in fit, depend how you like 'em but also the lenght seems ok to me, only small issue I see is the sleeve that's 3\4 inch too short .
    But really no biggie, also the jacket fits you like a glove!
     
  4. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

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    You really can see is Caruso , I'm in love with the brand [​IMG]
    Back looks fine to me, only issue the arm lenght as you said..I'd not alter much anything else!
     
  5. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Sorry for using you photo gthoren, but I would like to know if tailor can told me why does this heppens?


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  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Check the Tailor's tutorial thread on "Divots", but my understanding from Despos' explanation is that it results from putting something too large through the arm hole. You can try this by putting on a really thick sweater in a jacket that fits appropriately, and you might get the divot. At least that's my memory. The tailors will correct me but the tailor's tutorial thread has the explanation. Check it out.
     
  7. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Thanks mate! I read the article some time ago, and I remember something about the armhole and the hole of the sleeve have to be concentric or something like that and when one, instead of getting an oval shape, it's forced to more of a circle, the divots appear. So in this case, the chest it's not fitting correctly?
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013
  8. Pelotonia

    Pelotonia Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to use someone else's pic as a reference, but isn't the belt visibility under the jacket suggesting that the jacket is a bit tight in the waist? (In my mind, it's like a belt trace visible in the waist area)
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Shoulder "divots" occur when the jacket is too tight in the chest and/or blades or over the shoulders. The tightness pulls crosswise on the armscye causing it to collapse vertically. There is a resulting excess in length and tightening of the sleevehead which creates the classic divot. Tightness in the blades can possibly be rectified by letting out at the blades. Tightness in the chest is almost impossible to fix.
    If you buy OTR and have prominent blades or chest, your options to prevent the divot is probably to go up a size...which unfortunately and sometimes undesirably increases the p2p. If you decrease the p2p on an OTR jacket, the chest circumference usually decreases as well which can create the divot when worn on a body that may have narrow shoulder spread but full in the chest/back. So, if you prefer a closer point to point for a more "Euro" look, you really need to consult with a tailor who can properly measure for it. Above a 42 OTR makes a more euro cut a little hard per size you go up, though somehow poorly fitting suits that are tight in the midsection with "X" shaped drags along with gaping lapels and p2p so close we can see your triceps pressing through your sleeves have become....fashionable..?? [​IMG]


    This is why all you athletes out there are such easy custom clothing prey [​IMG]
    So keep lifting those weights and and keep searching for custom clothes so I can keep my lights on!
     
  10. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Unfortunately I don't live in the states. :( And tailors here are not top class. You can see a few pages ago, I uploaded my firs bespoke jacket with some shoulder problems, send it back to them and still don't have it back. The only one that is lets says worthy is Antonio Solito, but they charge $20,000 pesos for a 2 piece suit just for workmanship plus cloth. I still can afford that in one exhibition payment. :(
     
  11. gthoren

    gthoren New Member

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    Thank you for your input!

    From what I gather I should shorten the sleeves a little bit.

    To tackle the problem with the divots at the shouldes I could let out the blades a litte bit. I can't really go up a size because I have a narrow wast and full chest.

    I'm 179 cm, 107 cm chest and 87.5 cm waist.
     
  12. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    OTCtailor, question, how is the process to let out the shoulder blades? I need to get a better idea to explain that to my tailor, I have one jacket with that problem.
     
  13. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    It's done at the area of the upper side seam but it cant be let out alot unless there is always corresponding outlet in the sleeve.
     
  14. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    I meant also corresponding outlet, not always
     
  15. Winterbourne

    Winterbourne Senior member

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    I need some feedback on what alterations would be suitable for this suit. I purchased it last week at J.Crew. One of their stylists told me it looked as if it didn't need any alterations but when I had it on back home I thought the sleeves were a little long. I plan on wearing it for weddings/award ceremonies/interviews (first one of which is April 20th so I need to hurry). I'm around the Harrisburg area and still trying to decide on whom to go to.

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    EDIT: Boy, if only I knew about OTCtailor a week ago... I'm going to be in the market for a grey suit soon so this is good.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2013

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