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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Skrekkoggru

    Skrekkoggru New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2012
    Hi all,

    Please critique my fit.

    I've had the pants hemmed, arms shortened and neck roll removed. The shoulders don't seem to fit, could this have happened during the removal of the neck roll alteration? It's like only the front of my shoulders are touching the fabric. Also seems to be a tiny bit of neckroll left, I guess I should complain?

    Is the jacket too long though? (I'm 5'7")

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thank you soo much!!
     
  2. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

    Messages:
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    Feb 8, 2010
    Location:
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    I got the jacket back and due to the working button cuffs and being brain dead I forgot to ask for adjustments of the sleeve from the shoulder. Now I don't know whether the shop I worked with could have done it, regardless, I got the jacket back and now the left sleeve is shorter and for the most part is balanced with the right. However, the result is the cuff buttons being very close to the sleeve hem (approx. 1 to 3 cm) on the left sleeve. Needless to say, the right sleeve and left sleeve when inspected closely are quite off.

    Question for the tailors: I cannot tell for sure whether the tailor I worked with trimmed the sleeve hem, or rolled it up then stitched the extra fabric down. Which is the normal/universal practice? I am hoping it is the latter as I can still salvage the sleeve and go somewhere else to have it adjusted from the shoulder and sleeve hem let back out. Right now it is not noticeable and both shirt sleeves show equally. It just bugs me since I know.

    TIA
    Thanks in advance
     
  3. crunchyeggroll

    crunchyeggroll Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2013
    The shoulder measurement on the Macy's suit is 17.5" from seam to seam at the top of the spine. This was measured with the jacket on. Not sure if this is needed but if I included the padding part that sticks out past the seam, it is 18.25". My actual shoulder measurement is 17".

    Also, is it possible to use the current Macy's suit as a reference to find the correct suit sleeve length? I folded in the suit sleeves to show around 1/4" to 1/2" shirt sleeve. I measured the suit sleeve after doing this and got 22". My sleeve length when I measured using a dress shirt was also 22". I had my shirt sleeve end at my wrist where my hand began. So these measurements seem to match up. I'm not sure if the suit being wider in the shoulders affects the sleeve length.

    I'm just wondering if this way works but I'll probably get non-working cuffs to be on the safe side.

    Thanks.
     
  4. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    

    If you see no gaping at the collar and find that the test suit hugs your neck then that may mean you don't need the head fwd adj. however if the vents kick out and the fronts spread open like an A when unbuttoned then ask for it. There may not be a measurement available but they should be able to adjust.
    I don't know what those cm adjustments for the slope shoulders mean. I use a Perkins device for this almost just for reference. The rest is by eyeball. You can probably get away with a pretty good slope in both shoulders. That I've discovered, most folks benefit from sloping the shoulders of the jacket more so than less. In your case, most def.
     
  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    

    No. That is forward hips/flat seat.
    Almost the opposite fix for more space in the seat.
     
  6. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Location:
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    The way yo measure the p2p is def seam over the neck to seam. Have someone pull the shoulders in to experiment with a narrower measurement if unsure. Air on the side of caution when going narrower. Also, folding your jacket sleeves is a good way to measure them. It is how I measure often. Just make sure the person reading the tape is a)not moving the tape b) reading it at eye to sleeve cuff level. Your shirt sleeves should measure from center back down the arm. Leave the jacket off and cuffs unbuttoned. Measure right to the end of the cuff. Get a 2 button adjustable barrel cuff so you can choose to tighten the cuff on your wrist more or less.
     
  7. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Mexico City
    Thanks!

    Do you have a diagram like that for getting more room at the seat?
     
  8. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Location:
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    Normal practice for working cuffs is to shorten from the shoulder. Depending on how the sleeve hem was originally made, it may have been possible to adjust it there but of course it will change how close those buttons are to the hem. Chances are it was just folded and stitched.
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    On the jacket, the shoulders may be too wide tho a bit hard to tell. The back itself is too wide and the shoulders are too square for your shoulders. There is also tightness at the seat of the jacket creating a kindof shelf. May not be entirely possibl to fix depending on fabric outlet available inside. Obviously, sleeves are too long as well.
     
  10. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Again, there's no cut and dry diagram. It all depends on what the body shows. More prominent seat may need room at the hips, greater seat curve, slightly higher rise in back, extra room at the back fork etc. if the seat is low and prominent, that changes things more. If the posture is hip forward, backward, or normal, that can again change things. No one direct diagram or fix.
     
  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Location:
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    [​IMG]

    For those of you with the forward hips/sway back....when a trouser recut is done reflecting pattern adjustments that I posted in the diagram above, you can expect a result like this when done correctly. Only downside is that it will pull almost all the walking stride out of the leg and if the leg is slim, you'll feel it at the knee a bit when walking/sitting.
     
  12. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Location:
    New York City
    

    OK, here is what I think I am going to change on these--let me know if you think this will resolve the issues in the back:

    • Increase hip front by .5" (mostly to deal with pleats opening up
    • Increase front rise by .25"
    • Decrease back rise by 1"
    • Increase thigh width by .25"
    • Increase knee width by .5"
    • Additional thigh increase of .5" only in the back
    • Increase length by .5" in the rear

    Thoughts?
     
  13. amongyourhoundsofl

    amongyourhoundsofl Senior member

    Messages:
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    Aug 25, 2010
    I've recently procured a Stephan Schneider blazer which fits except for sleeve length. It has functioning buttons, but they are hidden as in a hidden placket (see the middle row picture on the right at the link below). I know it is possible to shorten at the shoulder, but given the risk, couldn't I simply hem the sleeve in between two of the buttons, because the sleeve looks essentially button free when fastened anyway?

    http://s243.photobucket.com/user/zarzeka/media/ss_blazer_aw_zps252b5642.jpg.html

    Thanks!
     
  14. quuz

    quuz Senior member

    Messages:
    251
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    Mar 2, 2009
    So I just received this lbm 1911 jacket in size 48, Im usually a size 46 but since I got this NWT at 75% discount I had to buy it! So what do you think, is it worth taking it to the tailor or should I just sell it?

    I need to have it taken in on the side/back and slightly shorten the sleeves, other than that it's just a tad too big in the shoulders. The back looks very clean however!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  15. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    The sleeves are long, too much shirt collar is showing in front, the waist is too tight, the upper back is too big, and (from the side) the shoulders are way off. Because of the last problem and the sheer number of problems, do not buy the suit or return it if it's already yours.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2013
  16. Alexander

    Alexander Senior member

    Messages:
    130
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    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    Chile
    Ok, I hope you help me guys
    This is a BB Fitz coat 38R. what do you think about the fit? does it fit me?
    Thanks in advance and sorry about the quality of the pics.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Skrekkoggru

    Skrekkoggru New Member

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    Jun 16, 2012
    No comments = everything is perfect? ;)
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2013
  18. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Senior member

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    Toronto
    ^that your head is completely missing just creeps the hell out of me. And are the sleeves on the jacket the same length?
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2013
  19. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
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    sorry, but these are another unfortunate example of useless iphone photos that no tailor in his right mind can do anything with.

    How can you expect anyone in here to give realistic feedback on a jacket you yourself identify as being the wrong size while you're posing in front of a mirror taking a selfie??
     
  20. Spinal2

    Spinal2 New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2013
    Any suggestions for this tux? I realise the picture is pretty bad - hoping to get one under better lighting tomorrow... (also apologies for the missing head, the new photoshop does funky things when you delete a section!)

    I realise the shoes are wrong, and the shirt not ironed...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2013

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