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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Chris-ModaR

    Chris-ModaR Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2013
    Hey Scott,

    The right bump is usually caused by a mix of either the shoulder being a bit too in, and/or the sleeve being tight for your arm. In your case it's a bit of both. What happens is the sleeve is pulled tight which causes that bump.

    In addition, sometimes (but from what I see in the picture, not your case) it's the way an individual's arms hang when you are standing in your natural position, and if it does not match the natural position of your suit jacket's sleeve it can cause this problem as well. If your shift right arm when wearing the jacket either forward or backward and see that it reduces the bump, that means a tailor could remove the sleeve and either shift it backwards or forwards (but is quite costly to do)!

    Lastly, on a lot of suits that involve people making them (particularly attaching the sleeves), the right shoulder usually has problems more than the left side because of how it is sewn. Something I've learned over the years from seeing other suits.

    In response to your other questions, the button stance can't be changed as the buttons on your jacket have already be punched unfortunately. It is indeed a beautiful blue fabric!

    Even if you prefer tight fitting suits, I would still have it loosened at the waist a bit, and also check to see if there is fabric left to loosen the sleeves a bit more, it might alleviate that dent on your right shoulder a little bit.
     
  2. shendo

    shendo Member

    Messages:
    17
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2013
    Thanks for the feedback, Chris-ModaR.

    I now see the excess fabric sagging the back of the thighs. I think it's because I have a flat rear and the suit was made for the average guy that actually has a backside. Maybe a tailor could remove that excess fabric in the seat?

    There does seem to be excess fabric in various places: on the sides, back, and the sleeves. I'm rather thin so OTR clothing is usually baggy to varying degree.

    I'm wondering if a MTM would be better for me? I like the suit but it seems I'll spend quite a bit altering it to fit my lanky build.
     
  3. Just a guy

    Just a guy Member

    Messages:
    13
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2012
    It really depends on the maker. Lambton Tailoring have updated their website now, but they used to have a direct link to a PDF version of their Technical Manual, which has a fairly comprehensive illustrated guide to the Block Variants and figurations that their system can handle. Most of the options have moderate, severe and extreme checkboxes for long neck, short neck, head forward, round back, easy scye, sway back, erect stance, barrel chest, shoulder drop, forward shoulder, sleeve pitch, increase centre front, square back neck, and another seven for trousers. The trouble comes when the vendors, and to a degree, even the system operators at the factory, aren't really entirely familiar with exactly how these figuration variations alter the construction of the coat. With the right maker, and a knowledgeable vendor and system operator, MTM can achieve an excellent fit.
     
  4. ScottMC

    ScottMC Senior member

    Messages:
    650
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2013
    Thanks for the feedback Chris. Do you think it might be possible, because of the fact that there is so much room between the top and bottom button, to put a third button in between the top and
    bottom buttons, and have the lapel repressed into a 3 roll 2? Just a wild idea I had.
     
  5. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

    Messages:
    116
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2013
    You have a flat seat, combined with trousers being too long, you need to adjust the rise and width of the back.
     
  6. briancpotter

    briancpotter Active Member

    Messages:
    43
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2013
    Location:
    Savannah
    I just received the following message from a manufacturer's eBay store, after inquiring about the shoulder width of a leather jacket:

    Quote: Can any tailors comment? This seems completely at odds with how important shoulder fit is.
     
  7. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

    Messages:
    488
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2008
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    ^^ Run...don't order from this eBay store.
     
  8. shendo

    shendo Member

    Messages:
    17
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2013
    Thank you for the feedback. It sounds like the flat seat may be an expensive alteration. Though I liked the suit, it seems I should look for another brand that better fits my lower half.
     
  9. Dingusberry

    Dingusberry Senior member

    Messages:
    979
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2012
    I don't know if this is the right thread to ask about tips, but I'll just try it.

    I am doing online MTM, and I am thinking about purchasing a couple of new shirts, mainly in oxford cloths.
    This is my last MTM order from Luxire, and it feels tight around the chest and the hips area, the sleeves are also a little bit short. What do I need to do? And how much is enough?
    [​IMG]

    Do you see the wrinkles around the belly button area? What does cause that, and how do I prevent it from happening in my next order? The wrinkles become very visible especially when I sit down.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the measurements for the shirt I am wearing:
    [​IMG]

    Thanks in advance!

    I am also ordering a pair of chinos, but my last chinos had a very low rise. The pants also had pocket flares. How do I increase the rise and remove the pocket flares without ruining the pants?

    Here are the measurements:
    Pants:
    Waist 15.5
    Half hips 19
    Hip front only 17
    Front rise 9
    Back rise 14.5
    Thighs 11
    Knee 8
    Ankle opening 6.75
    Inseam 27.5
    Pant length 35.5
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2013
  10. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

    Messages:
    488
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2008
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    
    Try to post more pictures (including pants), overall the shirt looks too tight all-around except for the sleeves/bicep area and based on your measurements, your pants are too tight as well. Looks like you are a natural 31" waist which is the same as me, but your hip (seat) measurements are tiny (19+17=36). Even though I have a prominent seat, your hip/seat area is likely not that small and thus is causing the pocket flare. And indeed your rise/crotch measurement do seem too low and tight as well. Not sure how you would sit comfortably in these pants? An overall loosing up of both shirt and pants is probably in order. How much, hard to tell...you need to remeasure and figure it out. I'm assuming you submitted body measurements and asked Luxire for a tight fit. My recommendation is send then measurements from a better fitting shirt and pants or even better send them the well fitting shirt/pants and copy the measurements from (that's what I did).
     
  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    I'm seeking feedback for all who post and/or follow this thread:

    I used to work for Astor & Black as a clothier but I was probably their only clothier/tailor hybrid.

    I'm currently launching my own MTM brand using the same concept/fabrics/quality etc and usually don't use SF to market my business. I have a decent local clientele that does keep growing.

    I'd like some feedback on whether or not an affiliate vendor-ship would be a welcome addition to the forum.

    Ultimately, it would be MTM sold at a price between the online MTM (which is a crapshoot) and the 'big city' market prices (I'm not in a big city) also sold by a skilled [alterations] tailor, not just a salesperson. The only caveat is that, for the most part, I will only travel to or receive clients from NYC or Philly as I'm only 1.5hrs away from those two markets.

    If you want to see my results with fittings etc just go browse thru the "A visit to Astor & Black" thread postings towards the end.

    Please post or inbox your thoughts. Thanks.
     
  12. Rimark

    Rimark New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Hello All,

    First of all, this is my first post and couldn't find a better place to post this sort of things so here it is. Also I have much respect for all the people on these forums - some great advice on here as I have been creeping for a while and learning a lot.

    So I bought this shirt off of Modern Tailor and did my measurements off of a nice fitting shirt. Overall my impressions were that it fit pretty well - better than ones I get from retailers certainly and the material didn't feel too bad.

    My only concern is that the chest seems a bit bulky and creates ripples under the arms, also I don't like the size of the cuffs (I like a tighter cuff) and am unsure about the length of the sleeves. Keep in mind that I am going for a slim fitting modern shirt and will eventually buy more dress and casual shirts. Attached are some pictures.

    Edit: Actually looking back at these pics, it does seem a baggier than I'd like it to be, more so than a slim fitting shirt. Thoughts?

    Thanks for any advice!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013
  13. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    4,438
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2009
    Location:
    On the Monaro, NSW.
    You need some more room in the hips. See the wrinkling on your lower back? That it does it still while untucked tells me the hips are tight. Yep cuffs too big like you said. I'm sure the tailors will chime in on the more complicated issues such as the sleeve wrinkling.
     
  14. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

    Messages:
    5,346
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2010
    Can a tailor increase hips on a pair of pants and is slant hem possible on cuffed pants? Thanks
     
  15. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    too tight around the hips. Probably not long enough. Shoulders on the shirt are more square than your and the fabric is collapsing over your shoulder slope. Can't really fix that on an existing/finished shirt...easily, that is.
     
  16. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    can only increase directly at the hips if there is fabric there. Most RTW pants have little to no outlet there. Some custom trousers will have a little outlet there.
    Slanted hem on cuffed trousers is possible but not easy to do.
     
  17. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

    Messages:
    5,346
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2010
  18. thecox

    thecox New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2013
    here is a pair of grey woollen flannel trousers which i have had some problems with. some feedback on the fit and what should have been done to make them fit properly would be appreciated
    my observations are as follows:
    -the underside of the crutch feels a bit tight
    -i have a large single fold of cloth in my lap when i site down
    -both legs seem to ride up into the crutch when i walk
    -there is a large fold along the side seam at the hight of the side pocket
    - the pockets seem to jut out "wings"
    - both cuffs seem to sit off the back of my heel
    -feels tight on the the back of the calves
    -feels very tight at the knee and front of thighs when i sit down.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. whitefisk

    whitefisk Member

    Messages:
    18
    Joined:
    May 23, 2012
    Im hoping for some feedback on this recent MTM attempt. The suit's construction is very nice but im not very happy with the fit (the pants could probably be fixed, im especially concerned with the jacket's extra fabric through the shoulder blades and possible collar gap... hard to fix problems...). Im loathe to return to suit to the store but thats what im considering at this point. Could i get some advice on what to fix and whether its realistically worth it compared to just returning the garment?

    Thank you very much for the help
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,429
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2011
    Hey white fisk,

    I don't see that much wrong with the suit. The button is a little high on your frame, but that's it.

    Can't see any collar gap.
     

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