The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[OTCtailor]

Like most before me I would like to thank the experts here who donate their time to help clueless people like myself. I recently began building a suit and jacket collection and would appreciate feedback on two coats I just picked up. As for fit, I like a classic look with a little bit of modern thrown in. I prefer a bit of a slim, tapered fit, but nothing to fashion forward.

Anyway, the first is a Samuelsohn, 40R. I bought it knowing that I needed the midsection taken in a bit, but otherwise I really liked the coat.

Spoiler

The second is nothing fancy, a lower end, fused, Hugo Boss. I was looking for something else, but I really liked the way it looked on me and the price was great. I don't know that I would have anything changed on this simply because I wouldn't invest much into it, but I'm curious as to what I may have missed.

Spoiler

The alien green dog eye is too much...

I think your jackets could benefit from pretty standard suppression. Taken in at the CB seam from the middle of the blades tapering to nothing just into the seat area. Also, the side seams could be suppressed well. More coming out of the forepart of the side seams than the back.

 

[OTCtailor]

disregard the tie and shirt. i wasn't home and hand to use a random button up shirt and a very bad tie. i noticed some collar gap, shoulders may be long, and i'm thinking it should maybe be a touch longer. opinions?

I think the shoulders on the jacket are a little too wide and too square for your shoulders. Also, you have prominent blades, forward pitched shoulders slightly, forward arms, and forward neck. The jacket balance looks too short in the back and front and too erect on your posture. You can see the lapels bowing and the fronts pulling in from this as well. The collar gap is also a sign. Yes, the jacket is also too short but not terrible. The pants may be alright.
Was this jacket pre-owned? If so, maybe it was altered. Otherwise it looks like online mtm with mistakes.
You need a jacket that is cut better for your posture. If you're ordering mtm online, you need to specify to the maker if you can the above mentioned attributes at least.

 

[adsmith4]

Just a quick question that I would appreciate some feedback on. Can a good tailor slim down the pant legs on a suit that wasn't meant to be a modern fitted suit? I have a few Hart Schaffner Marx suits that I would like to have the legs slimmed on but I wasn't sure if they would look ridiculous since the suits weren't cut to be slimmer fitting.

 

[OTCtailor]

Just a quick question that I would appreciate some feedback on. Can a good tailor slim down the pant legs on a suit that wasn't meant to be a modern fitted suit? I have a few Hart Schaffner Marx suits that I would like to have the legs slimmed on but I wasn't sure if they would look ridiculous since the suits weren't cut to be slimmer fitting.

Yes, but it's a good bit of work and the tailor has to understand the result you're after. Many tailors would look at a pair of traditionally styled trousers and be completely perplexed as to why you'd want to change them. I've personally done it to several of my own. I've removed the pleats then slimmed the legs and completely changed the fit of the garment. It takes hours. If someone brought me a pair of pleated trousers that came with a HSM suit that had your typical full boxy fit and wanted them taken apart and turned into something more modern, I'd charge them a not so small chunk of change. Won't quote a number here, but it'd be more than you'd ever normally expect to pay for pants alterations. Depending on the full scope of work, removing pleats, potentially changing the rise, and slimming trouser legs (which involves hemming) is a lot of work. Other tailors may not be willing to do the work or may not understand why you'd want the work done. That is the tailor that I'd avoid because if they're not enthusiastic about doing the work for you, it may not get done right.

 

[Despos]



Just a quick question that I would appreciate some feedback on.  Can a good tailor slim down the pant legs on a suit that wasn't meant to be a modern fitted suit?  I have a few Hart Schaffner Marx suits that I would like to have the legs slimmed on but I wasn't sure if they would look ridiculous since the suits weren't cut to be slimmer fitting.

Depends on your intent. If you want to make a modern fitting/looking suit from a conventional suit you will end up with a mutt. You will lose continuity with the jacket. If you want to trim down the trouser to be lean and more in tune with your physique, no problem.
You may have thin legs or small hips/seat and need seat and crotch adjusted to get rid of a baggy seat. Be mindful of your shoe size to determine the opening circumference and then have the length marked after tapering as the new width will effect the length and how the trouser sits on your shoe.

 

[drcbc]

I am seeing my tailor next week on Tuesday and posted a series of pictures of 2 Hiras Tailor Suits on Page 177, post #2649. Thanks very much for your time any comments you can give me before my appointment next week.

 

[Despos]



I am seeing my tailor next week on Tuesday and posted a series of pictures of 2 Hiras Tailor Suits on Page 177, post #2649.  Thanks very much for your time any comments you can give me before my appointment next week. 

You have covered most of the issues. Don't know who pressed these but the black suit isn't the best. The left lapel is rolling higher than the right and may contribute to the pulling you mentioned. This issue isn't on the charcoal suit.

The back is large across the blades on both but the charcoal appears bigger. Having the back reduced is suggested but it has to match your tolerance for how close a jacket can be fitted and your comfort level.
The sleeves aren't matched to the armholes and may need rotating as well. That is the cause of the excessive wrinkles on the back of the upper arm.

Can't comment about the sleeve length because the shirt is off and distorts the view.

Trouser has some funky wrinkles under the waistband on the back part. May be due to how the waistband is attached. You may have a high left hip.

 

[jdstany]

Hello everyone. I just got my first MTM suit from Black Lapel. It's the cool gray in "tailored fit". I gave the suit a very quick steaming, but I didn't go over it too carefully, so there are still some wrinkles. Overall, it fits better than any suit I've put on OTR, but it still doesn't look right. My thoughts are that the jacket and sleeves are both too long, the shoulders a bit too wide, there's a collar roll, and pants need to hemmed a bit shorter. There's also something weird happening around my shoulder blades on the back and the fabric seems to be bunching up around there. Do you all agree? Anything else you'd suggest that I'm missing? Do you guys think that this is alterable, or should I do a remake? Thanks for all of your help!
-Jeff

 

[Despos]



Hello everyone. I just got my first MTM suit from Black Lapel. It's the cool gray in "tailored fit". I gave the suit a very quick steaming, but I didn't go over it too carefully, so there are still some wrinkles. Overall, it fits better than any suit I've put on OTR, but it still doesn't look right. My thoughts are that the jacket and sleeves are both too long, the shoulders a bit too wide, there's a collar roll, and pants need to hemmed a bit shorter. There's also something weird happening around my shoulder blades on the back and the fabric seems to be bunching up around there. Do you all agree? Anything else you'd suggest that I'm missing? Do you guys think that this is alterable, or should I do a remake? Thanks for all of your help! -Jeff

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

The point to point is too wide and the half back and blade area. Sleeves are too long, left more than the right. Collar might be a bit big but I can't be certain from these pictures. Trouser needs the back rise lowered to pick up the back part and clean up the wrinkles. Shorten the trouser length. Ask them how to handle this. Do they have tailors to make these corrections. Are you on your own to find someone? Removing the sleeves and making all these adjustments properly is more complex and expensive than simpler adjustments. The blade can only be reduced on the back part to not distort the armhole shape. Find someone who can do the work, how much it would cost. If they offer you a remake it might be better. Be sure to show them pictures and be specific of the result you expect.

 

[jdstany]

Thanks Despos! Good catch on the trouser rise—I somehow didn't even notice that. Their policy is to pay for up to $75 of alterations at the local tailor of your choice. If the tailor deems the suit unalterable (within reason), then you email photos and a list of specific changes the tailor recommends (e.g. -1" sleeve length, -.75" point-to-point, etc.) to the people at Black Lapel and they remake the suit accordingly. Thanks again.
-Jeff

 

[adsmith4]

Yes, but it's a good bit of work and the tailor has to understand the result you're after. Many tailors would look at a pair of traditionally styled trousers and be completely perplexed as to why you'd want to change them. I've personally done it to several of my own. I've removed the pleats then slimmed the legs and completely changed the fit of the garment. It takes hours. If someone brought me a pair of pleated trousers that came with a HSM suit that had your typical full boxy fit and wanted them taken apart and turned into something more modern, I'd charge them a not so small chunk of change. Won't quote a number here, but it'd be more than you'd ever normally expect to pay for pants alterations. Depending on the full scope of work, removing pleats, potentially changing the rise, and slimming trouser legs (which involves hemming) is a lot of work. Other tailors may not be willing to do the work or may not understand why you'd want the work done. That is the tailor that I'd avoid because if they're not enthusiastic about doing the work for you, it may not get done right.

Depends on your intent. If you want to make a modern fitting/looking suit from a conventional suit you will end up with a mutt. You will lose continuity with the jacket. If you want to trim down the trouser to be lean and more in tune with your physique, no problem.
You may have thin legs or small hips/seat and need seat and crotch adjusted to get rid of a baggy seat. Be mindful of your shoe size to determine the opening circumference and then have the length marked after tapering as the new width will effect the length and how the trouser sits on your shoe.

Thanks for the quick responses. I have some nicer suits with plain, non pleated, fronts on them so I am wanting to keep the pleats in these. Jacket fits pretty well from the free alterations that came with the suit so really all I want done is to slim down the leg of the trousers and shorten a little a more. I was a college athlete so I am pretty athletically built at 5'9 about 180 so they won't have to slim the legs a ton to account for skinny legs. Just so they aren't so damn baggy down the legs.

 

[brodygee]



I think the shoulders on the jacket are a little too wide and too square for your shoulders. Also, you have prominent blades, forward pitched shoulders slightly, forward arms, and forward neck. The jacket balance looks too short in the back and front and too erect on your posture. You can see the lapels bowing and the fronts pulling in from this as well. The collar gap is also a sign. Yes, the jacket is also too short but not terrible. The pants may be alright. 
Was this jacket pre-owned? If so, maybe it was altered. Otherwise it looks like online mtm with mistakes.
You need a jacket that is cut better for your posture. If you're ordering mtm online, you need to specify to the maker if you can the above mentioned attributes at least.

Yes its online mtm. I have the same feeling about length, how much would you ad to the length? I went to a tailor and he suggested the shoulders are to wide and my shoulder type is square. They are the changes so far I'm going to add for my remake. Would you also suggest changing the posture type to slouched instead of normal?

 

[OTCtailor]

Thanks for the quick responses. I have some nicer suits with plain, non pleated, fronts on them so I am wanting to keep the pleats in these. Jacket fits pretty well from the free alterations that came with the suit so really all I want done is to slim down the leg of the trousers and shorten a little a more. I was a college athlete so I am pretty athletically built at 5'9 about 180 so they won't have to slim the legs a ton to account for skinny legs. Just so they aren't so damn baggy down the legs.

You might not necessarily need them slimmed if the complaint is that they're baggy. Slim pants can be baggy, too. They way they're cut and the way your build is may be the full reason. May just need a few tweaks. However, I could imagine with an athletic frame that the original drop from the jacket to the pants was still too large for you in the waist so even with it taken in, they're probably like

?
Sorry, Aladdin, but I had to

 

[Despos]



Whats up guys? I want to thank everyone who modeled their suits and especially thank the tailors. This thread taught me so much and is the most valuable source of information i found on suiting across the internet. Now I understand the silhouette, the lines, the balance and drape of a suit. I want a jacket that fits like that. That beings said I just bought a jacket that fits nothing like the above. Its a Brooks Brothers, 1818, Regent fit, 39R. I don't know what the problem is but the fit seems generally out of balance to me. Here some pictures:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

>>>>>>>>Below Are all pictures with the jacket openB]

So can i get a good fit in this jacket or should I return it and look for something else? Thank You!

When the jacket is buttoned the fronts look short and you seem to have an erect posture. When the jacket is unbuttoned the back looks short and your posture more stooped. I don't know which is accurate as these are opposites. Think you need 1/2" more length on the jacket, regardless.

 

[hipslap]

When the jacket is buttoned the fronts look short and you seem to have an erect posture. When the jacket is unbuttoned the back looks short and your posture more stooped. I don't know which is accurate as these are opposites.

Think you need 1/2" more length on the jacket, regardless.

Thanks, Despos. I will post some pictures in a t-shirt later today for a more accurate posture assessment.

When I unbutton the jacket it seems to swing backward for some reason. The opposite when I button it up. Its weird.