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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Lehigh Valley, PA
    
    Are they stitched straight thru the whole pocket onto the jacket front and then pic stitched? Can you take a closer pic of the pockets?
     
  2. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    Not sure. Hopefully this helps.


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  3. theclipper

    theclipper Senior member

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    Hey All,

    I'm getting married in September and thus I need to finally break down and by my first suit. I'm totally new to the world of suiting, so this is all slightly overwhelming. I still haven't decided on what color to go with; I'm thinking maybe a medium grey or a navy.

    I've decided to go with Kent Wang. I recently received my trial suit and had a chance to try it on and take some pics (spoilered at the end of this post d/t size). Since this is my first suit I was hoping for help with advice in regards to what alterations I should have done to get a great final product. I apologize if the pictures aren't top notch. If any other views or close-ups are needed I'd be happy to provide them. I'd greatly appreciate any advice or insight to help me to look fairly put together on my wedding day :)

    Here are some of the issues I've noticed thus far:

    - The trouser pockets flair out
    - The buttoning point might be slightly snug
    - I'm wondering if the buttoning point needs to be lowered (my belly button is at the height of the lower button)
    - Jacket probably needs to be lengthened some
    - Trousers need to be shortened of course
    - There is some definite bunching on my upper rear arms and in the small of my back (wondering what needs to be altered to fix these issues)
    - Waist of the trousers probably needs to be let out slightly as it is somewhat snug
    - I think I'd probably like to open the quarters of the jacket a bit

    Thanks much!

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  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    theclipper, there's far too much waist suppression in the jacket. It's hard to judge the pants with all of that fabric pooling at your ankles.
     
  5. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Location:
    Madrid
    Alright, so I'm either gonna switch tailors or give my current one a last chance (highly unlikely, but who knows).

    Based on the latest MTM coat I ordered, I photoshopped what I would do for the next commission; raised the armholes and the gorge, extended the shoulders, removed almost all shoulder padding, lowered the button stance and gave some shape to the waist.

    Do you think the changes make the coat any better, or more flattering for that matter?

    Thank you.

    Left is before photoshop, right is after.

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    Last edited: Jul 15, 2013
  6. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, that looks better. Based on your previous posts, though, you need to find a new tailor.
     
  7. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Yes, and probably bespoke. I really wish I could stick with MTM for monetary reasons, but it is sooooo prone to errors (see how this jacket inexplicably came with lower armholes than the previous one, that navy blazer I wore often), and my patience is running out. I think my current tailor is not willing to do bespoke, or if he does, he won't put a lot of effort into it.

    So I guess I could take this latest MTM coat to a new tailor and tell them what I don't like about it... or maybe just let them do their work and figure out what's better for my complexion.

    I'm actually quite happy with this seersucker jacket, but I just can't understand why mistakes that were corrected with the previous coat have arised again with this one. If it wasn't because I needed a summer jacket quickly, I sure as hell wouldn't have done another MTM piece [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2013
  8. oneTwo

    oneTwo New Member

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    4
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    Oct 9, 2012
    I have a 36S suit jacket that fits perfect except the sleeve length is too long. The problem I'm facing is that there are functional buttonholes on it and shortening it at the sleeve end is not going to work. My tailor also said it would be too much to shorten it at shoulders.

    I love the jacket so I'm trying to explore all options. My question is if was able to get the same jacket in a bigger size at 38 or 40, could those sleeves be removed and reattached on a 36S? Would this look right or would it be out of proportion? The functional buttonholes would then be removed.
     
  9. DHD28

    DHD28 Senior member

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    May 27, 2013
    Location:
    SoCal - OC/LA
    Guys I need some help. If I am wearing a jacket and cannot move both of my arms in front of me, is it the chest or the shoulders that need to be adjusted? How much should it be adjusted? It feels very tight near my armpit. Plus, how do the arms look? I am looking to get a new suit soon and I don't want to make the same mistake.

    Thanks in advance.

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    Last edited: Jul 15, 2013
  10. ellsbebc

    ellsbebc Senior member

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    Feb 2, 2012
    If

    If you are making a bear hug motion, it's most likely the chest. Do the lapels bow when standing upright with jacket buttoned? It is certainly possible the shoulder is too tight also but you have to supply pictures for better assistance.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2013
  11. DHD28

    DHD28 Senior member

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    Thanks for the input . I just added two more pics. Anyone else have any ideas?
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2013
  12. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    My advice is don't move like that. The armholes are probably a bit low.
     
  13. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    The problem is that your tailor has a maker for mtm that is rather inconsistent and he may not send enough units to have the leverage to get them to fix the problem. Its a factory somewhere that probably has a bunch of other tailors sending work their way and when things get screwed up the factory just says too bad pal or hey aren't you a tailor u fix it! Now if you're sending a factory 50 plus units a month in suits shirts or combos thereof well now you have leverage to better manage production. So, in essence the things you're asking for from mtm really are not that hard to do in actuality whether fitted in person or not. Higher armholes for instance are not a big deal to make. The problem is either on your tailors end forcarelessly not managing those details or its on the makers end for making the error. They could be in mainland China or India or where ever and just not care about your tailor that much because he's just a blip on their radar as an independent guy. There are good mtm sources out there that will give you a quality garment at a very manageable price.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. DHD28

    DHD28 Senior member

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    I don't usually make this kind of movement. Was just wondering since I noticed it today while trying to reach for something way above me.
     
  15. bfeng91

    bfeng91 New Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 15, 2013
    Hey guys, I just received a MTM suit from Indochino as a graduation gift. There aren't many tailors in the Champaign, IL area and the one I visited said he couldn't do anything based on the amount of fabric that there was left to work with. The suit feels a little tight in the chest/waist area, the vent doesn't come close to closing, and there's dimples on the back under the collar. Any suggestions on what measurements I should change when I send the suit back to Indochino for a remake? Any help would be appreciated, as I'm pretty much a suit newbie.

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  16. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    The factory is in Spain, but I don't know why there seem to be communication problems. The jacket came with awfully low armholes (much lower than they are currently) and my tailor had to somewhat fix them by buying extra cloth himself and completely remaking the jacket's sides. I even had sort of a "basted" fitting in that process, however since the sleeves weren't set, I had trouble assessing whether there was enough shoulder extension or not, or if the armholes were high enough. There wasn't enough cloth for more extension anyways.

    You're right that what I want to achieve should be possible with MTM. The form that has to be filled out to send to the factory has spaces for specifying shoulder width from collar felt to sleeve seam, armhole height, etc. And they were filled out correctly, yet there were many details that were absolutely off. I just don't want to go through the trouble of not getting what I want again. I'm kinda happy with this DB because well, technically, it fits very well; it's just not flattering. And it could have been.

    The reason I don't want to go bespoke with this man is that he seems extremely reluctant to doing tons of handwork. Even though he had to replace the jacket's sides, it looks like it was done in a hurry. I don't want him to make me a suit in a hurry, really.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2013
  17. pleco

    pleco Well-Known Member

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    Oct 9, 2012
    Location:
    London, England
    Something weird is happening with my MTM suit sleeves, can anyone help diagnose? My shirt sleeves are quite slim so I don't think it's the shirt causing it. Can these be widened if necessary?

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  18. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    May 4, 2011
    What is going on with the my trousers in the area just below my belt buckle? There's some wrinkling/pulling from the first belt loops down to the middle of the fly. Also, the pleats do not lay completely closed even though there is plenty of room in the thighs. Is this acceptable? The outermost pleats, nearer to the pockets, do lay closed, though.

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  19. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    The hurry may mean his workload is very high. In this case I would also find a new tailor if you're set on going bespoke. Def don't wanna pay money like that for a rushed job. Also, the db just looks loose in the front mostly. Fixing that right probably means a pocket recut. Its not excessive but the shape is missing right there.
     
  20. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Thanks. Yes, his workload is pretty high, which is why I don't really blame him; but at the same time that's why I don't want to bother him with more corrections to this jacket (will probably take it somewhere else if I lose some weight and want to give it some more shape), or bespoke commissions. Mostly because I probably won't be satisfied with the outcome and it's a waste of time for both of us. I'm convinced he's a good tailor, he just doesn't have the time, so I'm gonna have to find someone who does... [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2013

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