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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You need a regular length, not a short.




    In this picture, it looks fine.
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2013
  2. sean anon

    sean anon Senior member

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    Is this new cotton linen sportcoat too short? I know this is debatable and in general I am OK with my casual SCs being shorter but not sure this looks good

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    Last edited: Jul 11, 2013
  3. Cubits

    Cubits Well-Known Member

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    Can't really tell unless you button the jacket. While you're at it, slap on a tie so we can have a better look at the collar fit. Would also be good to get a shot of the back of the jacket.

    The jacket looks a little short, especially against the sleeve length. Taking up the sleeve might help that.
     
  4. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    Umm, are you referring to the post directly before yours? 'Cause his jacket is buttoned...
     
  5. Cubits

    Cubits Well-Known Member

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    I'm on my phone, didn't realise I wasn't on the last page. The response was to 1 up's post. My bad.
     
  6. eruannon

    eruannon New Member

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    Moving this over from a separate thread...

    Hey guys, just got a suit from a discount site for a really low price and was wondering how it fits. It is a Tommy Hilfiger trim fit, and the price was low enough to justify a good amount of tailoring. I am young guy and just starting a career where I need to wear a suit everyday, but have a very small budget right now, so I can't afford a fully-canvased bespoke suit, but still want to look good as I will be in court nearly everyday. I appreciate any thoughts or ideas on what should be done to make this suit fit better. Right now I just have the jacket on as the pants are currently un-hemmed. Thank you for your advice.

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  7. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

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    The jacket looks too short overall. You seem to be pretty tall. Put on the pants anyway and fold up the hem. The length and hem is the easiest thing to change anyway, so you want to see the fit along the seat and thighs and knees. Have pictures with just the pants as well. That said, the jacket being too short can't really be changed. Is what it is if this is what you can get for your budget.
     
  8. holyace2k2

    holyace2k2 Active Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2013
  9. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    Oh. :)


    Thanks for the feedback. How 'bout from the front?

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    Last edited: Jul 12, 2013
  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It looks very short from the front.
     
  11. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    You're not the first to say that it looks fine from the back but short from the front, which is odd, because the balance is fine. Hmm...
     
  12. BillyMays

    BillyMays Member

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    Hi all. I am in a terrible spot as I waited until very last minute to get a tuxedo for my wedding.

    I can buy OTR or go bespoke. Unfortunately, the tailor I want would require much more time so the only bespoke tailor I could do would be Ercole in NY.

    Based on that I was considering purchasing something cheaper and later on just going the bespoke route. However, after trying on several jackets, it seemed the only one that really fit was a Paul Stuart which cost 2,000 and is only marginally less than what I could get at Ercole so the advantage of buying something cheap now and getting exactly what I want from the tailor I want is lost. The other OTR tuxedos cost much less (around 500-600).

    So now I come to you. I apologize as my friend has a very thick skull and when asking him to take photos at each store, he chose to do it in the worst way possible and at different angles (I tried to correct for that using Photoshop).

    Given the limited view, could you kindly opine on the lengths, general fits, issues you see? My biggest issues are being short and also having very square shoulders.

    Photo on left is Matt's Rubinacci (not me) so please opine on the other 3.

    *Click on photo to enlarge






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    I also have included some photos of other suits I have with different jacket lengths and shoulder structures:


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    Please help. I am in a bit of a bind and the kindness of strangers will go a long way for me.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2013
  13. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Quote: the back part of the suit jacket. The shoulder seams that bisects the jacket splits the front balance and back balance in half. So then, squaring the shoulders/shortening the back balance means opening up that said shoulder seam and squaring the slope of the shoulder line.
     
  14. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    If you try to take too much more out of that dart you'll put that part of the fabric too much on the bias and it'll pucker and throw the top edge of the back balance off. Adding a second dart can be done but it's not gonna look perfect if the tailor doesn't take the back pockets apart...At least the top part of the welt. It should definitely be done that way, though. You could probably get by with just the one and take the waist into the seat in the rest. I doubt it would be much to really throw things off back there. A 10" difference from waist to seat is definitely prominent seat but 8" is normal so it's not extensive.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    It's on the short side but it does cover your rear, so if the shorter length works for your proportions, it's fine. By looking at your pics, I'd say a longer jacket could make you look short-legged.
     
  16. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    Thanks very much for the feedback. This is exactly what I was hoping to hear, but of course didn't want to say so and risk influencing one's opinion.

    This is a recent MTM suit that overall I think fits really well. I posted the pics in some other threads and received very positive feedback, but became a bit discouraged when a few posters mentioned the jacket looks short, which I had already been thinking. The jacket actually turned out to be a half inch shorter than specified--it measures 31" from the top of the collar down the back seam to the bottom of the jacket. For reference, I am 5'10", 190 lbs, and in general, I would say I have a relatively long torso and shorter legs, which are also on the thicker side from weightlifting. So I would agree that a longer jacket could make my legs look short. That said, I prefer classical proportions and hate the overly tight, narrow lapel, short jacket "fashion" suits that are currently popular. I think 1 cm longer than the jacket pictured would be ideal for me, but I'll try to live happily with this one as is. :)

    Thanks again for the feedback!
     
  17. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    As a follow-up to the discussion above on my jacket length, here are some more pics I snapped. (The previous ones were taken from waist level, which might have been throwing-off the perspective.)

    These aren't the greatest pics, either, but I appreciate any more comments on the jacket length or any other aspect of fit. :) Ignore the cuff/break, as the pants have not been hemmed yet and are just rolled-up for the pics.

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    Last edited: Jul 13, 2013
  18. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Balance and proportion are perfect, IMO. Perhaps I'd have preferred more extended shoulders together with a narrower sleeve opening, but other than that it looks good.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

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    Agree on above. Jacket length is style preference imo. I would prefer slight wider shoulders as well, but the fit looks good.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Everything does look pretty good here. Yes, you would benefit slightly from a slightly narrower sleeve opening but that is a small thing. Shoulder fit is alright as well. With the slope of your shoulders, I see why you may prefer or have gotten that slightly narrow fit. On the jacket length, it's my opinion that it does look fine. Could go no shorter. Could go up to 3/4 inch longer without really disturbing proportion. If you go with a future commission, your thoughts on 1/2" longer would be absolutely acceptable.
     
    1 person likes this.

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