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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. LOLHALO

    LOLHALO Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 25, 2011
    Hi guys,

    Firstly I would like to apologize for the poor picture quality, and the lack of a frontal shot.
    But any advice/comments at all on this fitting would be greatly greatly appreciated

    I do know that the pants length have to be taken in. And i think the sleeves of the jacket is the right length, just
    that my brother's shirt sleeves were too long.

    Thanks in advance :nodding:

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
  2. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Your left shoulder (from the back) has a slight divot.
     
  3. LOLHALO

    LOLHALO Member

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    Jan 25, 2011
    

    Hi othertravel, sorry but do you mean this?:D

    [​IMG]
     
  4. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Unfortunately, this is so complex that I and just about any other tailor would definitely have to see touch and feel what's going on with this to understand just what to fix. Either that or I need more time and clearer pics even of precisely what you've pinned to get a firm idea.
     
  6. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    God I hate pants.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Bortelli

    Bortelli Senior member

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    At Uncle Sams
  8. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    It may be time for you to try other options:

    [​IMG]

    So, how conservative is your office?
     
  9. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    I'd probably get some stares.

    [​IMG]
    Going to go with this for now. I'm Irish but it'll still work. Might look good with burgundy half brogues.
     
  10. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    make sure you get those pleats pressed correctly...
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. scatterbrain

    scatterbrain Senior member

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    Toronto
    Doooo iiiiit!
     
  12. Osiris2012

    Osiris2012 Senior member

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    Brisbane
    hey guys, hopefully just a quick question for the awesome tailors responding in the thread :) and I fear I know the answer but....cleaning out the wardrobe I happened upon an older suit I still quite like, the issue is the pants are size 34 and im down to 31 these days, any hope a tailor could work their magic or with that difference is it unlikely to be a good (or possible) result?
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2013
  13. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    It's not impossible but you won't like the result.
     
  14. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Well, I'd suggest trying them on and posting pics. It all depends on where you've mostly lost the weight and how the trousers are cut from the start.
     
  15. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    OTC -

    Here's Luxires suggestion. This is in addition to my pinned picture.

    Hi Nathan,
    apologies for the delayed reply.


    I think you have pinned it perfectly. The pants will look great in a fabric with a little more gravity sensitivity in it.

    Without making the rise much bigger, we will let out the fork to remove any tightness in the rear. 1 cm is not a problem.

    We should get started.

    Hopefully this does something... If not, $198 down the drain between two pairs of pants and I'm stuck looking like I crapped my pants everywhere I go.
     
  16. coolron

    coolron Senior member

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    NYC
    Cross post from the Luxire thread, looking for feedback on the fit of the shirt.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. philozine

    philozine New Member

    Messages:
    2
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    Jan 2, 2010
    Gentlemen,

    Long time lurker, first time poster. I'm hoping to get some feedback, either from the tailors or other knowledgeable users, about a MTM suit I recently purchased. I'm going for a slim fit with this one, but I think there are some serious issues, particularly with the jacket. My guess is that it needs a remake, but I'm not entirely sure of what to adjust, or by how much. (The suit has not been pressed, obviously; apologies for that.)

    Some questions/concerns:

    • Shoulders: This jacket measures about 0.5" wider across the shoulders than my best-fitting OTR jacket. Would reducing the shoulder width by 0.5" or so diminish the divoting?
    • Waist: I like slim, but the jacket is too tight around the waist. The photos don't show it well, but there's a noticeable X emanating from the top button. And from the back view, the waist is too "scooped" for my taste. Would adding an inch or two to the stomach measurement help minimize this?
    • Length: My arms are long, so the jacket appears a bit short, but it does seem to cover my ass appropriately. Or, rather, it covers the part of my body where my ass would be, if I had one. Lengthen or no?
    • Back/Arms: The wrinkling around my triceps is a dealbreaker for me. I'm guessing this has to do with the pitch of the sleeve? Is the wrinkling on the sides of my upper back also related to sleeve pitch, or is this a separate issue?
    • Sleeve width: I discovered the sleeves were *way* too tight when I attempted to answer my phone. Felt like I was about to burst a seam. Another dealbreaker. Can this be fixed by adding an inch or so to the sleeve width?

    There are some other, more minor issues (neck roll, right sleeve needs lengthening, etc.), but these are the ones I'm most concerned about.

    Thanks!

    -phil
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2013
  18. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Wouldn't change the p2p or if you do, do it out of preference. It's not going to make a difference in fact it would make the divoting likely worse if you go smaller. The divots are occurring because the jacket appears tight across the shoulders and upper back area. That force applies a tug to the back of the armscye causing it to collapse creating a divot. There's a possibility the jacket isnt quite cut right to your posture. Lowering the collar or squaring the shoulders would not fix the collar roll, either. You have a head forward/semi stooped neck. The balance needs to be adjusted for that properly from the pattern stage. Your arms hang semi forward. That needs to be adjusted for, too. It's also possible that the maker's sleeve pattern is archaic and flawed causing it to pucker up like that. The sleeves are a little tight but easing up the waist suppression would probably help. You could ask for 1" of additional ease at the bicep for a fuller sleeve, though.
    For a remake, you wouldn't increase your stomach measurement. You'd just ask for an increase in the ease or half girth. Whatever your stomach measure is, add 5" and divide it by 2. That number is what you should measure if you wrap a tape around the jacket starting at the edge of the front flap (either side) and measuring around to the center seam. Most MTM makers should be able to follow your measurement. Adding 1" to the existing half girth would really help. You could possible go even further.
    Also, your right sleeve is too short by a solid half inch. The jacket length appears to be fine.
    Hope that helps. Any other questions, do inbox me.
     
  19. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Well, the rise doesn't need to be bigger at all. Letting out the fork at the back is probably not going to help unless the back rise is shortened. It would just add to the fullness already there.
     
  20. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    The rise is kind of being eaten up by me rolling up the fabric. If I roll up 4cm, it's too much of the rise. They want to let out 1cm.. make sense yet? Still a bad idea?
     

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