The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Did he also say that those same creases would reflect more light thus adding to the intentional contrasting effect of a dinner suit? Because that sounds just as reasonable yet untrue. Just wondering [​IMG]
     


  2. ryoneo

    ryoneo Senior member

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    Thanks for the response.
     


  3. azumi

    azumi Senior member

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    Hello OTC tailor, thank you for the pics.
    Here are some more pics I took yesterday. Could you please give me some advice before I take my blazer to a tailor who usually alter my clothing ( I wish I lived in the US so that I could bring it to you).

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Please figure out why there is a crease at the back (is it a "shelf" as you said?) and how to fix this problem?
    Thank you.
     


  4. katabatic

    katabatic Senior member

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    Yeah, about what I thought :). This is getting interesting.
     


  5. azumi

    azumi Senior member

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    Yeah, this thread always is interesting. Is it right, man?
    When I wear a sweater outside my shirt, it seems that the crease on the bạck of my jacket is smoother, or vituarlly disappear. So I guess the reason is the back of my jacket is tight a little bit?
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2013


  6. TedBaxter

    TedBaxter Member

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    Hi everybody,

    first off: I really appreciate this thread and the time you invest for helping people with less knowledge.

    Blessed with few knowledge I had two MTM shirts tailored but am now a little bit unhappy about them. I would love to know whether it is me who is wrong with his opinion or whether it is the sellers that are telling me the "wrong things".

    The shirt you see on the pictures has been worn one day. That is how it would look on an afternoon at work.

    Which annoys me most is that the fabric is causing waves (I'm sorry, I'm not a native speaker and I hope you still understand what I mean). It just does not fall smoothly as it should, instead the fabric stows up at the chest and waist area. The seller tells me, that the fabric such a good material it has to be washed a couple of times before it falls alright. I just can't believe that. I've chosen one of the best fabrics they had to offer and now I'm stuck with a shirt I have to wash I don't know how many times? Does anybody believe that this is true?

    The second thring is the wrinkling on the shoulder close to the neck/throat. When first trying on the shirt it had a tendency to have the "neck wrinke" so I asked them to alter the whole area and to remove very much of the surplus fabric that could be found on the back. What do you thing about the wrinkling in that area?

    Lastly, what do you think about the back, the amount of fabric still remaining, the amount of fabric at the waists and the overall shirt appearance? I asked for a reasonably slim fitted shirt, but the overall amount of fabric is just way too much, isn't it? I also think the buttons are a catastrophy but they didn't offer any others. Certainly, I will not have anything made there again but for now I have to make the best out of it and am grateful for any advise.

    Many thanks!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  7. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Okay...
    If you look at your jacket from the side view, you can see how it's level to the ground at the bottom if not falling down where it's longer in the back than the front.
    That means that it was either designed that way, which I'm sure it wasn't, or the back balance is too long.
    It's still hard to see, but is that a ridge/roll of fabric up under the back of the collar? If it is, the fix for your jacket is a bit more extreme than the typical squaring of the shoulders.
    In part, the jacket's total fit around your waist down thru your hips is a little too tight. It may have to be let out a little mostly in the fore part of the jacket. Unfortunately, it's still too hard to tell from your pics so this part of the analysis may be more of a guess.
    I don't know why that ridge goes away when you wear a sweater except that it may change the way the jacket drapes down your back. Basically the back of the jacket is simply too long. You may not really understand why it can't just be shortened from the bottom, but it can't be. You'd just shorten the jacket and the ridge would still be there. It has almost everything to do with the way it's hanging from your shoulders. Put the same jacket on another person with a longer back and it wouldn't be as bad. The fix is shortening from the top...possibly requiring shifting the back part upwards....recutting the shoulder line and armscye portion and then letting out the bottom to compensate for the shift. This is not an alteration I've actually done before because I don't come across people that actually want to spend the money to get it done, but I can see it in my mind how to fix.

    @despos @jefferyd @a tailor: Am I correct with this analysis based on what I can see?
     


  8. dapperj

    dapperj Active Member

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    I'm no expert by ANY means but that shirt just looks big on you. I think the sleeves are too long and there is way too much fabric on the sides by the waist and by your armpits. I'm not sure if this is because of the darts but I don't think so.
     


  9. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Can't see much from the lighting of the suit and twisting of the torso in the side view distorts the view
     


  10. coupas

    coupas Active Member

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    This is a very interesting thread and I would like your take on a recent purchase.

    I'ts a low cost suit purchased from TM Lewin, this is the suit. It's cheap and I took a chance as I usually can fit into OTC-suits quite good.
    http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Cushing-Sl...d=Mens-Suits&prefn1=Suit_Fit&prefv1=Sackville


    I recieved it today and promptly unpacked it and put it on:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Would it even be possible for a tailor to save it, or should I return it?

    Thanks in advance for your take on this. I really appreciate getting second opinions from well versed guys like yourselfs.

    /Coupas
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2013


  11. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    If someone smarter than me (any of the tailors...or anyone else really) says different, then believe them not me, but as I understand it: yes, I believe your seller. It doesn't matter how good quality a cotton shirt is - if it's straightforward cotton, even _really good_ cotton, it is going to shrink when you wash it. This is a fundamental property of cotton fabric. It doesn't mean the maker did anything wrong or cheaped out on the fabric. A tailored / MTM shirt *should* be made slightly 'oversize' in order to shrink to the correct dimensions when washed, or you'd never be able to wash it. So, wash it once or twice, then try it on again.

    edit: I'm not saying that shirt is okay or not, I'm not qualified to comment on that, and maybe one of the tailors could tell you if it's good or bad even without you washing it. Just saying that as I understand it, regular cotton shirts are always going to shrink a bit the first time or two they're washed.

    Do let me know if I'm wrong, OTC/Despos/etc.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2013


  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    What he was told isn't about shrinkage, it's about the drape of the fabric. Essentially that the fabric would relax after several washings, kind of like denim. This may or may not be true, but I think the issue with TedBaxter's shirt is that it isn't cut very well for his body.
     


  13. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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  14. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Remind me not to post or reply any longer from my smart phone.
     


  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Please don't post or reply from your smart phone anymore! :)

    Actually I enjoy reading your posts, you are very articulate and actually understand the conceptual side of things. Your contributions are bringing new perspective and life to the thread.
    Good job!
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2013


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