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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Dingusberry

    Dingusberry Senior member

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    Hi, guys!

    Do you think it's expensive to get blazers tailored? I am about to buy two jackets from Suit Supply, and I can already see that the sleeves end up being too long, so I am going to take it to the tailor to fix the sleeves, however the only problem is that the jackets have functional buttons. That means that I have to pay more for get it tailored. It will cost $78 pr jacket. Do you think that is too much? I live in Norway, so everything is bacially more expensive, but to compare with non-functional buttons, it "only" costs $68. So, is it worth to pay $78 for a $300 jacket?
     
  2. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Better have a good tailor to shorten from the shoulder and shortening more than 1" may give a not so great result. Keep that in mind before purchasing.
     
  3. Dingusberry

    Dingusberry Senior member

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    Oh, I thought of shortening the sleeves with 1.6''. I hope it doesn't end up very bad.
     
  4. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    1.6 inches... lol, that's a rather exact amount, especially since you haven't even bought the jackets yet.
     
  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    It's risky.
     
  6. Dingusberry

    Dingusberry Senior member

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    Should I return the jacket if I need to shorten it that much? I have too short arms, every jackets have always too long sleeves.
     
  7. michaelyork

    michaelyork Senior member

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    How is the fit on this suit? Is the fit alright or is it too long, or too big, or? I need to hem pants, get the sleeves done, take off basting thread, etc.
    Any advice gratefully appreciated!

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  8. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    ^^^Actually, I think you are doing alright. Besides the sleeves being too long, your shirt sleeves are too long. The backs of the sleeves on the jacket are not too great but that is the only major issue. Should like quite good for OTR and minor adjustments in terms of fit.
     
  9. michaelyork

    michaelyork Senior member

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    ^^^ Yeah, the shirt is a size too large. I need to get the sleeves done, buttons sewn on, etc. I guess I can shorten it them. I have the option of getting surgeon cuffs on these sleeves, should I do it? or is that just dumb? thanks for the reply, man.
     
  10. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    You want the shirt sleeves to be there they will be before the jacket sleeves are done.
    I don't know what surgeon's cuffs will run you but add it to the cost of the suit and does it seem worth it to you?
    Surgeon's cuffs are nice when you have wicked fine button hole makers and it is nice when you have bespoke or MTM because it is 'for your arms only'
    but I don't think they add so much that they should be a concern until you go beyond a certain level with all else. When going expensive, sure, when not, not worth it. But, hey, it is your suit.
    I do not understand why some suit makers put them on for RTW. Makes life much more difficult to get a proper fit.

    Also, if someone else chimes in I could see a statement about the jacket being too long but I would ignore that. I think you look right in it with your figure and the level of your pants.
    Perhaps a cm shorter would be ideal but do not fret so much about it.
    However, I would add not to get your pants done really short as it will throw off the balance. If you copy the favored flavor of the SF times to have your sock showing while standing, well, you are on your own. That look is downright awful for a grown man in a proper suit. Do I care for pants that are very long with an uber sized break? No. But looking like an older child who has outgrown his childhood suit but is still wearing it is not a look to aspire to just the same as the baggy and long look that makes one appear as if he is wearing his father's suit is plain wrong.
     
  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Well that's up to you. I'm just letting you know that the procedure to shorten working cuff sleeves from the shoulder is risky period...very risky when done beyond 1". If you've had it done before by a good tailor and you're happy with the result, then by all means do proceed. If you have only had sleeves shortened from the hem and you're unsure of the tailor's skill, I'd proceed with caution. Also, if the sleeves are that long, are you sure the jacket is the right length? Usually a maker who makes working cuff sleeves on RTW jackets is pretty confident in their measurements/cuts. You see this with Tom Ford.
     
  12. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    The back of the jacket may need work. Too hard to tell with the way you've taken the pics. FYI, the posing isn't necessary...it only distorts what a tailor needs to see to comment on fit. Check the first post in the whole thread for instructions on how to post proper pics. It's for your best interest. Also, I don't think the shirt sleeves are too long. I think they're too loose which makes them appear too long. They should fall just below the break in your wrist right onto the base of your thumb. There should be a bit of blousing in the sleeve so that when you extend your arm, say, to talk on the phone you can still show the appropriate amount of cuff. This is a Flusser-ism...and it makes sense.
     
  13. GastonSharp

    GastonSharp Member

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    I think your jacket lenght is fine...rule is it should be around the base of your thumb so that's fine. you should have it take in at the waist to enhance the shape of your body...the shirt though (not sure if you are asking opinions on that as well) but you should get a custom shirt..you are a fairly fit guy..it's too bad to wear a shirt that makes you look overweight
     
  14. lychyrychy

    lychyrychy Senior member

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    Needs better pictures. Put a tie on or button top button to test for collar gap. pants too long unless its your personal preference.
     
  15. michaelyork

    michaelyork Senior member

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    Yeah, you're right, the shirt is too big. I should try sizing down and then taking in the torso.

    pants aren't hemmed...i'll post a proper pic, with tie, accessories, etc. once i take all the basting threads off the suit. thanks.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2013
  16. jcep

    jcep Senior member

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    [ATTACHMENT=6594]Blue MTM edited.JPG (535k. JPG file)[/ATTACHMENT]
    [ATTACHMENT=6595]Grey OTR edited.JPG (566k. JPG file)[/ATTACHMENT]
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    Hello gentlemen.

    Please pardon the photo quality in advance. I am not really a photo enthusiast (Read: I lack the SLR Pro and Tripod) and I don't really have friends I am comfortable asking for a small fashion photoshoot (maybe I need different friends haha?). My question only concerns the button stance on a RLBL MTM commission that I had made for the MTM even (i.e. same cost as OTR). My jacket came in with a higher button stance than requested and I have been offered to do one of the following:

    -Keep the jacket I have (I am not sure if it actually may look better than the lower button stance b/c my chest is about as wide as my hips)
    -Change the jacket for an OTR model in the same cloth (first time trying the MTM with them so purposely tried a fabric so I could swap it if this happened)
    -Get the jacket recut with a lower button stance (I am a bit concerned that a) it will take forever b) they will mess something else up since they'll give me another block pattern that may not fit me as well)

    Any thoughts? Is my lower body relevant to decide this? I'll bite the bullet and just ask someone to take a pic if so.
    Look forward to your thoughts and any recommendation for an alterations tailor in Manhattan or Brooklyn that can take a look in person as I think I'd prefer that but have no idea who I'd go to. I have read the recommendations for pepino and have gone to wilfred (ruined pants for me) but I don't have the kind of cash it takes to mess up a suit and chalk it up to a data point on my suiting experience so if anyone has someone that's reliable and not against a younger slimmer fit I'd greatly appreciate it.
    Thanks in advance for the pearls of wisdom/suggestions.

    Jcep
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2013
  17. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    jcep: We can't pardon the photo quality because the critique you seek depends utterly on their quality. Please go back to the first post in the thread for guidelines on picture taking, and then get someone to take pictures in the prescribed poses.
     
  18. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    Recent Kent Wang MTM suit:

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    Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the fit, but I welcome other opinions and suggestions for possible tailoring to this suit as well as adjustments to future MTM suits.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2013
  19. jcep

    jcep Senior member

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    Completely understand Sugarbutch. It makes sense. Would it be possible for you or maybe some of the other members (ideally Despos, Jeffrey, or OTC tailor ) to recommend someone in Manhattan or Brooklyn that could look at this in person? I have gone to Wilfred and the guys at the Tailoring Room but the former messed up a garment irreparably and the latter is more for simpler stuff so I guess I'm looking for someone with equivalent skills to the tailors on this thread. Any ideas? I did use the search function but it seems to me that maybe someone comparable in skill would be a bespoke suitmaker and since I'm not a customer I'm not sure if he or she would take the time to see me.

    Any thoughts sugarbutch or anyone else?
     
  20. jcep

    jcep Senior member

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    Edited (wrong pics)
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2013

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