The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[sugarbutch]



Ultimately, you'd have to look up the history of the suit, but a double breasted lounge suit is a step-up in formality from the single breasted version. The peak lapel is a step up in formality from the notch lapel. It's a sartorial mismatch to have a notch lapel with a double breast. You do see it occasionally, but it's more of a fashion move than anything else. The shawl collar is is found on DB dinner jackets, mostly.
Lastly, DB suits are designed to present a specific visual aesthetic, which is the broadening and lengthening of the torso. The different button stances allow for different builds of torso. The peak lapel is a natural fit for that purpose.

I don't think this is the conventional wisdom on DB v SB formality. Will from A Suitable Wardrobe posted about this very subject here: http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2010/10/formality-is-principally-in-details.html

 

[OTCtailor]

I don't think this is the conventional wisdom on DB v SB formality. Will from A Suitable Wardrobe posted about this very subject here: http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2010/10/formality-is-principally-in-details.html

in principality, his analysis is accurate.
In reality, however, I'd like to see a new hire at a law firm step into the office wearing a DB navy chalkstripe 6x2 and say good morning to his boss who is wearing a muted grey flannel.
Maybe pretentious would be a better word than formal.

 

[aravenel]



in principality, his analysis is accurate.
In reality, however, I'd like to see a new hire at a law firm step into the office wearing a DB navy chalkstripe 6x2 and say good morning to his boss who is wearing a muted grey flannel.
Maybe pretentious would be a better word than formal.

I agree. I'd love, love, love to wear a DB suit. Unfortunately, I don't think I could get away with it in my work environment. At least not until partner level.

However, I dont think it's any more *formal*. It's just more... Affected? Style-conscious?

 

[OTCtailor]

I agree. I'd love, love, love to wear a DB suit. Unfortunately, I don't think I could get away with it in my work environment. At least not until partner level.

However, I dont think it's any more *formal*. It's just more... Affected? Style-conscious?

I wear them almost exclusively...and in a way that most people could never get away with.

Of course, I report to no boss...except my wife, that is. I'm 30 yrs old. Heavily marketing my business. I wear things that make people wonder and ask questions which inevitably leads to more business.

 

[sugarbutch]



in principality, his analysis is accurate.
In reality, however, I'd like to see a new hire at a law firm step into the office wearing a DB navy chalkstripe 6x2 and say good morning to his boss who is wearing a muted grey flannel.
Maybe pretentious would be a better word than formal.

I agree. I'd love, love, love to wear a DB suit. Unfortunately, I don't think I could get away with it in my work environment. At least not until partner level.

However, I dont think it's any more *formal*. It's just more... Affected? Style-conscious?

I think the word we're looking for here is "conservative" which actually ties nicely into the formality scale Will outlines. The SB is more conservative, thus more appropriate for a lower-status employee who needs to draw attention to himself, not his clothes. The senior employee/owner has the leeway to wear a less-conservative/less-formal suit because F*** you, I'm the boss.

 

[OTCtailor]

I would greatly appreciate the input of tailors. I am a long time lurker, and I have gained knowledge from this site, I just want to begin by thanking everyone for their contributions..

Ok, So I purchased this is Polo Black Label suit, the Anthony pinstripe in a dark navy color. I bought a 40S, I usually wear a 38s slim fit, I tried the 38s in this suit, but the Black Label 38 lapels bowed slightly and the shoulder felt too cramped.

I want a timeless fit, slim yet professional, nothing skin tight like Euro HM models (nothing against that, just my personal pref)

I am 5'8 140 lbs, broad shoulders, athletic build.
My measurements are:

Chest: 37-37.5 inch , (sometimes it is 37.5 when i am working out regularly)
Neck: 14.7
Waist: 31

My shoulders are broad, and squared, I have been told by numerous tailors that I will always have a slight collar roll or pulling of the collar in the back of my suit jackets due to the shape of my shoulders.

Here are some pictures in various poses of the jacket:
I know the sleeves need to be shortened and waist/body needs to be taken in, but is this a good fit? should i keep it?

Please let me know.. thank you in advance.

Front




Side:




Back:





Arm Raised and in Motion





diff angle, while moving,

I think this jacket looks good prior to alterations. Looks good in the shoulders and sleeves. A good tailor can balance the low shoulder with some padding and proceed from there to shorten the back balance (square the shoulders). Also, the jacket needs suppression thru the back and waist and the sleeves may need to be shorten a touch, but a closer look by a tailor who isn't looking at cellphone pics can determine that. These are normal alterations that would make the suit look great.

 

[amgwhip123]

I think this jacket looks good prior to alterations. Looks good in the shoulders and sleeves. A good tailor can balance the low shoulder with some padding and proceed from there to shorten the back balance (square the shoulders). Also, the jacket needs suppression thru the back and waist and the sleeves may need to be shorten a touch, but a closer look by a tailor who isn't looking at cellphone pics can determine that. These are normal alterations that would make the suit look great.

Thank you for your response OTCtailor, would you recommend me keeping the suit? Do you think it is a good OFT suit to have some basic alterations done?

 

[LLeung]

Hi i recently just ordered a custom suit from Indochino. As you can see there are some problems with the fitting of my pants. Can anyone advise what the problem might be? Is it in the crotch, hamstring, or thighs? Thank you.

 

[azumi]

I've purchased a Ralph Lauren Black Label corduroy blazer in size 36R. Here are some pics when I try it, please ignore the jeans and the shirt. I appreciate any comment from you.
I'm 5'75", 130lbs.







As you see, I think the total length may be suitable (in the photos it looks long a little bit because my skinny jeans, I think so) but the sleeves length may be quite long. Do you think I should shorten it 0.5-1"?
Finally, they leave the buttons unattached, so please suggest what should I do with them? just attached the buttons on the cuffs as non functional button or make it become working buttons?
(I really don't want to make them working button because I don't think the tailors around me are able to make a nice button holes. They may damage my blazer's cuffs)
Thank you in advance

 

[OTCtailor]

I've purchased a Ralph Lauren Black Label corduroy blazer in size 36R. Here are some pics when I try it, please ignore the jeans and the shirt. I appreciate any comment from you.
I'm 5'75", 130lbs.







As you see, I think the total length may be suitable (in the photos it looks long a little bit because my skinny jeans, I think so) but the sleeves length may be quite long. Do you think I should shorten it 0.5-1"?
Finally, they leave the buttons unattached, so please suggest what should I do with them? just attached the buttons on the cuffs as non functional button or make it become working buttons?
(I really don't want to make them working button because I don't think the tailors around me are able to make a nice button holes. They may damage my blazer's cuffs)
Thank you in advance

I find it interesting that they didn't attach the buttons but the sleeve cuff itself is still essentially finished. The sewing is still there. In order for the sleeve to be shortened, there is still the labor of ripping the old stitching, pressing the sleeve creases, marking new lines and sewing them, repressing finished cuff, then attaching the buttons. This trick of theirs isn't really saving a tailor any time no really saving you any money! If you go into a Brooks brothers, the sleeves are basted at a folded length. No sewing anywhere on that sleeve. This allows the tailor to easily finish them. Not in this case.
It does look like the lining might be finished in a way that would allow for the sleeves to be converted to surgeon's cuffs, though.
My opinion is that you should get them shortened. They're longer than where your shirt sleeves should fall. Skinny jeans don't make them look long, they themselves are just long.
Should you get them converted? I say yes IF and only IF the tailor has a professional buttonholing machine and not many do. I've got a buttonholing attachment that goes onto an old household sewing machine. I've converted many cuffs into surgeon's cuffs on smooth worsted's, but it's not nearly as good on a heftier fabric or a pile fabric like cord.
Also, they can only convert them if there's enough room on the sleeve vent after shortening the sleeve. Let's say you need an inch off the length, which it looks like you do. Typical RTW jackets simply do not have enough fabric in the sleeve vent to keep the vented look of a finished sleeve cuff. The tailor has to check to see if there's enough room on the sleeve vent after shortening in order to convert them.
Hope that helps.

 

[azumi]

It does look like the lining might be finished in a way that would allow for the sleeves to be converted to surgeon's cuffs, though.
My opinion is that you should get them shortened. They're longer than where your shirt sleeves should fall. Skinny jeans don't make them look long, they themselves are just long.
Should you get them converted? I say yes IF and only IF the tailor has a professional buttonholing machine and not many do. I've got a buttonholing attachment that goes onto an old household sewing machine. I've converted many cuffs into surgeon's cuffs on smooth worsted's, but it's not nearly as good on a heftier fabric or a pile fabric like cord.
Also, they can only convert them if there's enough room on the sleeve vent after shortening the sleeve. Let's say you need an inch off the length, which it looks like you do. Typical RTW jackets simply do not have enough fabric in the sleeve vent to keep the vented look of a finished sleeve cuff. The tailor has to check to see if there's enough room on the sleeve vent after shortening in order to convert them.
Hope that helps.

Thank you very much.
So in case the tailors in my living place cannot convert the actual sleeve's cuffs to surgeon's cuffs, should I just attach the buttons on the cuffs as the non-working buttons? and do I have to re-sew the sleeve vents after ripping the old stitching (the white welt inside the cuffs)? Could you do me a favor by upload a few pics as an example for me to refer?
And what do you think about the back length? Do I have to shorten this?
Regards.

 

[yfarmanara]



From the pictures, it looks like the back balance is a little short. A front picture would've been helpful, but the chest may be tight, as well. The jacket looks like it's fighting your posture. The bunching in the back around the armhole has to do with the way it's cut. The sleeve bunching only occurs on one side. Is it a pre-owned garment, mtm, or OTR?

Currently out of town but wanted to say thanks for the reply. It's OTR I got at a steep discount and have had some waist suppression done. I will post some pictures when I return from the front and with a t-shirt that shows my upper back/shoulder posture. I have this problem with every jacket I try on OTR. MTM is out of my budget now so I'm trying to make do and fix issues as much as possible.

 

[RDiaz]

I agree. I'd love, love, love to wear a DB suit. Unfortunately, I don't think I could get away with it in my work environment. At least not until partner level.

However, I dont think it's any more *formal*. It's just more... Affected? Style-conscious?

You could try a double-breasted suit in a more casual fabric to avoid that effect.

Anyways, I don't see DB's as more formal than SB's, it's just that they are far less common, and as such, they look more pretentious.

 

[fallforall]

Posted this a bit ago and it got lost in the shuffle.

This is a 36R.
I have the option to exchange for a 36S, which would take 0.9" off the sleeves and about 1.2" off the jacket length.

Suggestions to keep/exchange?

 

[RDiaz]

I find it interesting that they didn't attach the buttons but the sleeve cuff itself is still essentially finished. The sewing is still there. In order for the sleeve to be shortened, there is still the labor of ripping the old stitching, pressing the sleeve creases, marking new lines and sewing them, repressing finished cuff, then attaching the buttons. This trick of theirs isn't really saving a tailor any time no really saving you any money!

It might be because it's cotton. If buttons and fake buttonholes were to be removed to shorten the sleeve, they would leave marks.