The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I don't think this is the conventional wisdom on DB v SB formality. Will from A Suitable Wardrobe posted about this very subject here: http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2010/10/formality-is-principally-in-details.html
     


  2. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    in principality, his analysis is accurate.
    In reality, however, I'd like to see a new hire at a law firm step into the office wearing a DB navy chalkstripe 6x2 and say good morning to his boss who is wearing a muted grey flannel.
    Maybe pretentious would be a better word than formal.
     


  3. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I agree. I'd love, love, love to wear a DB suit. Unfortunately, I don't think I could get away with it in my work environment. At least not until partner level.

    However, I dont think it's any more *formal*. It's just more... Affected? Style-conscious?
     


  4. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    I wear them almost exclusively...and in a way that most people could never get away with. [​IMG]

    Of course, I report to no boss...except my wife, that is. I'm 30 yrs old. Heavily marketing my business. I wear things that make people wonder and ask questions which inevitably leads to more business.
     


  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I think the word we're looking for here is "conservative" which actually ties nicely into the formality scale Will outlines. The SB is more conservative, thus more appropriate for a lower-status employee who needs to draw attention to himself, not his clothes. The senior employee/owner has the leeway to wear a less-conservative/less-formal suit because F*** you, I'm the boss.
     


  6. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    I think this jacket looks good prior to alterations. Looks good in the shoulders and sleeves. A good tailor can balance the low shoulder with some padding and proceed from there to shorten the back balance (square the shoulders). Also, the jacket needs suppression thru the back and waist and the sleeves may need to be shorten a touch, but a closer look by a tailor who isn't looking at cellphone pics can determine that. These are normal alterations that would make the suit look great.
     


  7. amgwhip123

    amgwhip123 Member

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    Thank you for your response OTCtailor, would you recommend me keeping the suit? Do you think it is a good OFT suit to have some basic alterations done?
     


  8. LLeung

    LLeung New Member

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    Hi i recently just ordered a custom suit from Indochino. As you can see there are some problems with the fitting of my pants. Can anyone advise what the problem might be? Is it in the crotch, hamstring, or thighs? Thank you.



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  9. azumi

    azumi Senior member

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    I've purchased a Ralph Lauren Black Label corduroy blazer in size 36R. Here are some pics when I try it, please ignore the jeans and the shirt. I appreciate any comment from you.
    I'm 5'75", 130lbs.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]


    As you see, I think the total length may be suitable (in the photos it looks long a little bit because my skinny jeans, I think so) but the sleeves length may be quite long. Do you think I should shorten it 0.5-1"?
    Finally, they leave the buttons unattached, so please suggest what should I do with them? just attached the buttons on the cuffs as non functional button or make it become working buttons?
    (I really don't want to make them working button because I don't think the tailors around me are able to make a nice button holes. They may damage my blazer's cuffs)
    Thank you in advance :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2013


  10. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    I find it interesting that they didn't attach the buttons but the sleeve cuff itself is still essentially finished. The sewing is still there. In order for the sleeve to be shortened, there is still the labor of ripping the old stitching, pressing the sleeve creases, marking new lines and sewing them, repressing finished cuff, then attaching the buttons. This trick of theirs isn't really saving a tailor any time no really saving you any money! If you go into a Brooks brothers, the sleeves are basted at a folded length. No sewing anywhere on that sleeve. This allows the tailor to easily finish them. Not in this case.
    It does look like the lining might be finished in a way that would allow for the sleeves to be converted to surgeon's cuffs, though.
    My opinion is that you should get them shortened. They're longer than where your shirt sleeves should fall. Skinny jeans don't make them look long, they themselves are just long.
    Should you get them converted? I say yes IF and only IF the tailor has a professional buttonholing machine and not many do. I've got a buttonholing attachment that goes onto an old household sewing machine. I've converted many cuffs into surgeon's cuffs on smooth worsted's, but it's not nearly as good on a heftier fabric or a pile fabric like cord.
    Also, they can only convert them if there's enough room on the sleeve vent after shortening the sleeve. Let's say you need an inch off the length, which it looks like you do. Typical RTW jackets simply do not have enough fabric in the sleeve vent to keep the vented look of a finished sleeve cuff. The tailor has to check to see if there's enough room on the sleeve vent after shortening in order to convert them.
    Hope that helps.
     


  11. azumi

    azumi Senior member

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    Thank you very much.
    So in case the tailors in my living place cannot convert the actual sleeve's cuffs to surgeon's cuffs, should I just attach the buttons on the cuffs as the non-working buttons? and do I have to re-sew the sleeve vents after ripping the old stitching (the white welt inside the cuffs)? Could you do me a favor by upload a few pics as an example for me to refer?
    And what do you think about the back length? Do I have to shorten this?
    Regards.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2013


  12. yfarmanara

    yfarmanara Well-Known Member

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    Currently out of town but wanted to say thanks for the reply. It's OTR I got at a steep discount and have had some waist suppression done. I will post some pictures when I return from the front and with a t-shirt that shows my upper back/shoulder posture. I have this problem with every jacket I try on OTR. MTM is out of my budget now so I'm trying to make do and fix issues as much as possible.
     


  13. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    You could try a double-breasted suit in a more casual fabric to avoid that effect.

    Anyways, I don't see DB's as more formal than SB's, it's just that they are far less common, and as such, they look more pretentious.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2013


  14. fallforall

    fallforall New Member

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    Posted this a bit ago and it got lost in the shuffle.

    This is a 36R.
    I have the option to exchange for a 36S, which would take 0.9" off the sleeves and about 1.2" off the jacket length.

    Suggestions to keep/exchange?
     


  15. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    It might be because it's cotton. If buttons and fake buttonholes were to be removed to shorten the sleeve, they would leave marks.
     


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