The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    More suppression in the waist of the jacket to clean that up. Probably by reducing the back parts only because it looks like a slight lack of fabric at that waist. Could possibly let out the forepart of the jacket slightly in that area and take in the back parts to achieve suppression. The button stance is incredibly high which is not helped but a low rise pant. The low right shoulder could be padded out a little to pick that sleeve up a bit.
    The back rise of the pants is too high and the cloth is collapsing down your leg. The back of the waistband need to be dropped to compensate.
    Length of pants is ok unless you want a neater break.
     


  2. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    The jacket balance looks off a little. The fronts are a little too long causing the bottom button to spread open like an inverted V.
    The sleeves are too short because the jacket length is a little short, too. Let the sleeves out.
    Once the balance is fixed then you can suppress the waist. If you suppress while the balance is off, it'll make it worse.
     


  3. yfarmanara

    yfarmanara Well-Known Member

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    Wondering if I could get some advice on the bunching in the sleeves and armpit. Unfortunately only have an iPhone camera on hand at the moment. Thanks in advance!


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  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Could be you have square shoulders and the strap is long and makes the lapel stand away from your chest. Could also be a short back balance causing this. Unless you post a picture it's hard to help you.
     


  5. pseudonym

    pseudonym Senior member

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    Thanks for the input. I passed on it. Definitely agree with you that the fit felt off.

    Seeking other suits in the $400-500 range. Next trial is SuitSupply.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2013


  6. FillW

    FillW Senior member

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    Yeah, I wasn't sure if i wanted to take a chance on buying it even though it's pretty cheap. I just wanted to ask to get an idea if it could be made to look OK. I may get it and post a pic. Maybe they'll take it back if I can't fix it. I like the jacket and would use it as an odd jacket.
    Thanks, guys! [​IMG]
     


  7. TheSizzle

    TheSizzle Senior member

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    Thank you, OTCtailor. I thought the button placement was a little high, especially for those pants. I'll take this all under advisement and try to get this handled.
     


  8. hugh51271

    hugh51271 Well-Known Member

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    I didn't take a shot without the jacket from the side. Sorry.

    Feedback is much appreciated.
    This is MTM. The thing that I notice of course is the shoulders, hence the close shot of the shoulders from the side.

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  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Looks pretty clean, to me. A few small issues here and there like the seat of the jacket looks a tad tight. The shoulder issue could be a few things. From the front they look too wide and hanging off the right side a little. Hard to explain what all is going on there. A lot of technical jargon. What did the maker say about this or is it online mtm?
     


  10. oman112

    oman112 Member

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    Hi all-- I am new to styleforum and I am new to MTM suits. I got my first Indochino suit a week ago, and I am generally please with the fit (as compared to the OTR suits that I'm used to anyway). However, I wanted to run the pictures by y'all to get some feedback--specifically on the jacket. My biggest concern is the bump/divot on the right shoulder. Not sure if it is because the shoulders are too wide or if the fit is bad elsewhere (e.g., chest). I am open to any feedback that will help improve the fit of my future indochino suits! Thanks!



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  11. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    hugh51271 and oman112 both post questions about what is commonly referred to around here as a "divot" on the sleeve, and ask if this has anything to do with the shoulders being too wide, and the answer is no. Divots have nothing to do with the shoulder width. Here is a gross oversimplification:

    The sleeve must be drafted in a size and shape that relate to the size and shape of the armhole. When the garment fits correctly though the chest (that includes, most critically, across the back) the sleeve will fit correctly.

    If there is tension in the chest, the garment will pull, compressing the armhole. It gets shorter and wider. The sleeve, however, has not changed, so it will pull, and the excess cap height in relation to the armhole height will result in the divot.

    We can see where hugh's full blades are pulling on the jacket- this tension is pulling the armhole and sleeve out of shape.

    There are a few other, more arcane things at play here, but the gist of it is that. In most cases, if there is a severe divot, it can not be fixed. Minor ones can sometimes be fixed but you need to be seen, in person, by a competent tailor to get a proper assessment. Since it involves removing and resetting the sleeve, it won't be a cheap fix either.

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  12. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    ^^That has to be the best example of shoulder divots. I never imagine that they were caused by that. Thanks jefferyd!
     


  13. Leader12

    Leader12 Member

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    Tomorrow I´m taking my suit to the tailor to make some arrangements but I need some advice. I will have the sleeves shortened so I can show some cuff from the shirt, but what else besides that should I do?

    Heres some pics for reference. Sorry for the cellphone pics.

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  14. Leader12

    Leader12 Member

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    I´m taking my suit tomorrow to the tailor to have the sleeves shortened but I would like some more advice on what else to do for it to look as good as possible. I feel the sleeves around the biceps bunch up a bit.

    Excuse my cell phone pics. Thats what I had at the moment. Thanks!

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    Last edited: Jan 9, 2013


  15. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Thank you, jefferyd...
    These are all things that I see but simply don't have the time in to communicate certain problems quite like that. Learning experience over here, too!
     


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