The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    Thank you. My work tends to be pretty physical (I'm a filmmaker, so I have to lug gear around) and I've been able to work out a schedule that will let me get to the gym with an eye towards building some strength for that and, as a secondary thing, making it easier to fit into OTR clothing. I figured my lats must have been part of the issue. I may just try that exercise -- fortunately, I'm still young and malleable.
     


  2. gotmoo

    gotmoo Member

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    I would really appreciate some more input for the fit below...I'm hoping to get as much done in the first alteration as possible (hopefully the only one) as I'm on quite a tight schedule...

    Thanks again!!

     


  3. leeba

    leeba Senior member

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    Thanks for the input! I'm going to try and get it completely remade today, we'll see what happens. And it's cheap Shanghai tailors mainly targetted towards foreigners, probably explains the shoddy work lol

    I thought that if one had sloping traps they should get more unstructured/softer shoulders? Or am I wrong? My shoulders are sloped and I don't really feel the need to hide that to be honest (in terms of aesthetics) - but if it makes the suit look/hang better then by all means I'll embrace the extra padding
     


  4. gotmoo

    gotmoo Member

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    Thanks for this, is that the only cause of the creasing up? More suggestions would be really appreciated!
     


  5. justsayno

    justsayno Senior member

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    I got more fat. My pants are getting too tight and the pleats are open even when I'm standing.

    Can a tailor alter the waist AND close the pleats, or should I donate said pants?
     


  6. TheSizzle

    TheSizzle Senior member

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    Pants often have a couple inches of room to let out from the seat, unless they've been let out before.
     


  7. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Do you want them looking sloped? Then go that way.

    But he isn't talking about the overall look. He is saying one of your shoulders is lower. I'm guessing he wants to even out the look between the right and the left.
     


  8. leeba

    leeba Senior member

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    Gotcha. Just got back from the tailor place and looks like it's a lost cause/money down the drain. Oh well, lesson learned...I guess..
     


  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    How valuable are they to you? Both of those alterations can be done at the same, yes, but the cost of doing so is $$. Removing pleats is no small task.
     


  10. kylepw

    kylepw Member

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    The picture was pre-steamed. Even if I straightened out shoulders, there was still a weird drape. I tried steaming just the arms and it seemed to help. Have to find a place a properly press it now. Thanks, Despos.
     


  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    It looks like a definite sleeve pitch problem but there could be other hidden issues we can't easily see while you're wearing the suit. Some possibilities that you should ask the tailor or mtm fitter are:
    Did they properly account for your posture? It's hard to tell but it looks like the collar may not touch your neck the way it should. The balance of the jacket looks off but maybe it's the way the photo was taken with a phone.
    Do you have forward pitched shoulders? The pressure on the front of the armhole and the little horizontal ripples across your upper back suggest you might.
    Do you have a flat seat?
    Do you have anterior pelvic tilt? The pants are very messy despite the obvious length issue.
    The pictures seem to indicate that you might be dealing with some of these issues and they may not have been accurately accounted for.
    All of these posture elements can be adjusted for in most mtm programs.
     


  12. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Hi guys!

    Yesterday I went to pick up my MTM jacket, but I didn't accept it cause it needed some alterations. I must say that I'm quite dissapointed with the work. First of all the sleeves were super short! I mean that's why they measure you right? To get the right lengths and all stuff. They are going to compensate the short sleeves with the process that you all know. Problem is that I asked for fuctional buttons... so I don't know if between the first button and the end of the sleeve, there's going to be a huge gap. So I would like to ask, what is the common or correct distance between the buttons and the end of the sleeve?

    Also in the middle of the back there was a huge bulk or fold, I don't know hoy to call it. I feel that the jacket is to tight in my waist, for a MTM jacket, the waist can be let out a bit? Then the lapels they were definitely not what I was expecting, the patch pockets and the chest pocket. I have to pick the final jacket on monday, and from those measurements they are going to make the other one. I will have an arguement on monday cause I think I will tell them that I don't want the other one, that I want my money back. Seriously, I had a different idea of the final product, I ordered these two jackets as a test, if they came out well I will stick with them to make all my jackets ans suits, but as far as it has gone, I don't like how they work.

    I will take my camera on monday and I will take some pictures of the fit, so I can upload them.

    Thanks!
     


  13. justsayno

    justsayno Senior member

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    Ah i want to keep the pleats. If the waist is let out, won't the pleats still be open?

     


  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The words you use to describe or ask questions is a bit unclear. You will have a benefit from letting out the waist and seat but the effect on the pleat will depend on how much weight you have gained and where you carry the extra weight. Letting the waist and seat out is all done from the center back seam and increases the waist and hip size overall but doesn't make the front panels larger and that's where the pleats are.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2013


  15. gotmoo

    gotmoo Member

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    Thank you so much for your suggestions OTCtailor. What's frustrating is that the MTM fitter thought everything fit perfectly fine except the slight long pants length. He didn't mention anything about posture and everything else you mentioned. I'm not sure if he just wants to avoid further tailoring (save costs??) or just frankly not know what he's doing. It appears that I need to be proactive about how I want the jacket/pants tailored, but I'm obviously a big noob when it comes to this...

    The suit is already sent off for initial adjustments, of course he didn't even mention the words sleeve pitch, but he took some pictures and hopefully the actual tailor will recognize it??

    Any additional advice from other tailors on the forum for what I should let them know at the next fitting would be really appreciated. Thanks again!!

     


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