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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. dijor

    dijor Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jul 18, 2011
    Sugarbutch, thanks for your usefull comment. I will keep the overall proportions in mind and forget the conservative fingernail hem rule.

    Afterall it is all about a little sprezza right :).
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. HHall

    HHall New Member

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    3
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    May 6, 2013
    Hi,

    I just got my first MTM suit and I have some mixed feelings about it. Firstly, the sleeves were too short but they insisted that they could be let down but as it has functional sleeve buttons they end up too high on the arm in my opinion. I also asked for kissing buttons, believing that they only touched but got what I thought was called stacked buttons. They offered to re-do the jacket because of this but then I would like to be sure there is nothing else that should be changed.

    After taking the pictures I noticed wrinkling on the back of the sleeves and especially back of the legs. Is this something that can be fixed? Also, I think the waistcoat is a little short, is that nonsense?

    Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!


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  3. TheKongoEmpire

    TheKongoEmpire Active Member

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    Location:
    Wandering with the Children of the Lost.
    Who made the suit?
     
  4. HHall

    HHall New Member

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    3
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    May 6, 2013
  5. steffenbp11

    steffenbp11 Senior member

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    First of all you should get your shirt sleeves slimmed.. The shoulders onthe suit look fine, but most people on here would say the buttoning point is too high. I am not dure about the wrinklingon the pants but I dont think it is critical on the jacket
     
  6. NukeMeSlowly

    NukeMeSlowly Senior member

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    DC metro
    If this is the "Tailor's Thread," why are so many non-tailors chiming in with their 2 cents?

    How about we leave the commentary to the professionals?
     
  7. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    It's not like it used to be where Despos or the other recognized tailors would post fairly regularly. Getting a tailor to comment on a fit pic in this thread now seems like a 50% proposition.
     
  8. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Sep 25, 2012
    Location:
    Mexico City
    It seems like the tailors have abandoned us. [​IMG]
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    There's just a little too much volume. Will go back in a few days and comment on posts.
     
  10. hennree

    hennree Senior member

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    Jan 29, 2012
    Location:
    England
    

    I think its a little wide on the shoulders. Is this easy for a tailor to fix? Is it costly?

    Thanks
     
  11. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    Mar 15, 2006
    On HHall's suit, the sleeve pitch is off - not an easy fix. Also, the jacket is slightly too short, which cannot be fixed. Something is wrong with the back of the pants, but the explanation is best left to a tailor (please visit the thread). Also, they appear slightly too long, though cleaning might solve that. The vest does look slightly short, yes. Might as well opt for the suit remake.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2013
  12. HHall

    HHall New Member

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    3
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    May 6, 2013
    Thank you very much for the feedback so far, it's greatly appreciated even if from a non-tailor.

    I think I'll have to go for a remake of at least the jacket if not the entire suit. Here is a quick list of what I would like to fix:

    #1: Sleeve buttons 3/4in from sleeve end and sleeve lengths to show 1in of shirt. Right now they are not even equal lenght;
    #2: Kissing buttons, non-overlapping;
    #3: Increase jacket length, go for more a traditional length of 1/2 the length from bottom collar to floor or just a little shorter. It seems the front is shorter than the back, should be equal?;
    #4: Lower button stance, top button just above navel and lower button just below hip bones (where I would normally wear a belt);
    #5: Increase waistcoat length slightly;
    #6: Fix wrinkles on the back of the trousers. What needs to be changed here?
    #7: Correct sleeve pitch, move slightly back?

    Do you agree? Any more issues?

    Any more comments would be very much appreciated, especially from the great professionals in the forum.

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2013
  13. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    This is a Suitsupply Havana jacket. I usually wear a 50, but decided to size up to a 52. What do you guys think?

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  14. branden

    branden New Member

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    May 8, 2013
    My first online MTM suit (Indochino) - obviously needs some work (despite having my measurements taken at the Traveling Tailor...) Since it's going back in for a remake, can you offer some suggestions? My own notes are:


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    The suit jacket:
    • I can button the jacket comfortably, but…
    • There seems to be a bit of pulling a the buttons when buttoned.
    • There’s some other dimpling / waviness along my flanks.
    • The sleeves definitely seem too short; I like showing some cuff, not the entire cuff.
    • Although they said shorter jackets are more in style right now, the jacket does seem too short for me and my junk-filled trunk, so I’d like it a bit longer.
    • The left shoulder doesn’t match the right shoulder; the left seems to have more material bunched up in the seam, causing a noticeable ridge.

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    The pants:

    • The waist actually feels great. It buttons comfortably, not too tight, definitely not too loose.
    • The pants are definitely too tight in the thighs and calves.
    • The crotch needs to be lower, I think - it doesn’t feel at all ‘roomy’ in there.
    • If I bend my leg up, or try to sit down, it definitely gets too tight - almost to the point where I think I’m going to blow a seam.
    • There is some odd “twisting” in the back that causes an odd crease on my butt, while twisting the pleated line up the back of the legs.
    • Despite wearing the same shoes in these pics that I wore to the Traveling Tailor, I think they’re too long.

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    Thanks in advance for any constructive criticism!
    -Branden
     
  15. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Because of the super high volume of posts, please inbox me with pics if you'd like analysis. Way too hard for me to keep up with all the posts especially in the mobile format. Thanks for understanding.
     
  16. adric10

    adric10 Member

    Messages:
    9
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    Oct 2, 2011
    Location:
    State College, PA
    Hi gents,

    Total noob here and just getting into buying

    better clothing, so please pardon my ignorance on some of these matters.

    I'm starting a new job in the autumn as a professor, so I'm trying to create a more professorly wardrobe. I've never bought from Brooks Brothers before, but I got their email about their big sale last week, so I ordered a few items from them -- but since I'm about a 3 hour drive from the nearest BB location, I couldn't go in and try on any of their clothes before ordering, so I did my best guess at what might be my size in their wares. I ordered a 41R Fitzgerald fit sportcoat (corduroy, since that's what professors wear when they don't wear tweed, I understand) and a 16/33 shirt.

    For the sportcoat, I *think* it looks like it fits correctly in the shoulders, but I could use some expert eyes on it. Also, it seem a tad long to me, and maybe a bit full in the chest (I understood that Fitzgerald was one of their slimmer fitting cuts, so I went with 41 instead of 40 to be on the safe side) -- can anyone tell me how the shoulders are working here, and if this is indeed a bit long, or if it's my imagination? Also, sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.

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    Next, I got a shirt, which I think is awesome looking -- but it looks like the shoulder seam droops past where they should (see arrow). Am I right on this?
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    If I wanted correct the shoulder issue on my next shirt, which measurement should I bring in -- the neck or sleeve length? The 16 neck fit nearly perfectly (2 fingers went in) and the sleeves were maybe a *hair* too long, but might not be after shrinkage.

    Any (constructive) advice is helpful!
     
  17. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    Mar 15, 2006
    
    Probably slight collar gap - fixable. The upper back needs work. It seems to need a slightly lower button stance. Too short (slightly), as often happens with SuitSupply. Sleeves are too long. It would look good if all those problems were fixed.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2013
  18. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,885
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    Feb 9, 2013
    Thank you for the feedback, just what I thought! How would the upper back be fixed?
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2013
  19. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

    Messages:
    4,536
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    Mar 15, 2006
    Let a tailor figure that out.

    Also, one shoulder looks lower than the other, which requires a jacket alteration.
     
  20. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 15, 2006
    
    Yes, those are valid issues. Also, the jacket collar arguably is too high. Frankly, the suit looks bad. The stomach protrusion is highlighted - some of that might be a fit issue. Also, the lapels are disproportionately narrow, and if a patterned suit would have been situationally appropriate. dark gray or navy blue with pinstripes would have camouflaged the weight better. Adding to the poor impression is the excess shirt sleeve length.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2013

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