The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. timotune

    timotune Senior member

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    Thanks for your reply. I have unbuttoned the cuffs of the shirt, so they seem long.
    I will try to post some pics of other angles tomorrow.
     


  2. I am a lion

    I am a lion Member

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    Tried on some trousers (cords) yesterday, loved the colour and reduction but they suffered from a buckling at the crotch (looked like permanent moose knuckle). Would this be safely tailorable on the highsteet?
     


  3. Embargo63

    Embargo63 Well-Known Member

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    Hello all.

    Hoping for a little guidance here. Blazer is (believe it or not) from JCPenny 100% fleece wool in grey. Based on reviews I've read before the purchase stressing size down, I went with Medium. For reference, I am 6'0" and 195lbs. I only paid around $60 for the jacket and I've already worn it out. So, to beat those telling me to take it back and exchange for a different size to the punch - I feel like it's already too late and, frankly, not even worth the trouble, imo. Worst case I figure there's nothing my tailor could to make the fit better so if that's true I'll just continue to wear it "as is."

    Without further adieu, what do we think about the fit off the rack? Would y'all recommend anything be done to it? My tailor is very good but he is also an hour's drive from me each way. Sadly, stopping by his shop just to see what he thinks is pretty inconvenient

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  4. sorabji

    sorabji Active Member

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    I have a question about button-down shirts. I have noticed that all the shirts I've found that fit my shoulders and chest bunch up at the following spot on the front "panels" of the shirt:


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    It seems like I need shirts that have a shape more like this:


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    Can this be altered with a dart at the seam there? It seems like a dart there would look odd on a casual shirt with some sort of pattern. How difficult would this be to do by myself? I've darted and hemmed shirts before, but I've never done anything with the armholes.

    On a related note, does anyone know of any shirt brands that have a more rounded cut to that front panel, as shown in the second picture?

    Thank you for any help. I'm still pretty new to this whole dressing better thing.
     


  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    sorry to have missed you. photos squarely from the front and the sides would help. first dont have the sleeve pitch done yet. he will just have to open them over again. he is right about the left side. there is too much cloth on that side. some of it needs to be removed. make it too smooth and its uncomfortable. in the back view see the right sleeve farther fore ward. is this your normal posture or did you move when the camera clicked? the right is a low shoulder,. with a higher and larger right hip. but recutting a low shoulder on a finished coat is an iffy thing even with the best of tailors. you might discuss that with your tailor. after thought., were alterations done on this before seeing the present tailor?
     


  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you are right about the shape of the armhole. but that makes the armhole larger, now the sleeve needs to be larger to match the armhole.
     


  7. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the chest circumference is a bit tight. the cuff circumference is too large. the biceps are tight. if you order again change those measures and tell them you have an erect posture. and also a full chest. you should send them these pictures.
     


  8. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    pictures .
     


  9. GenerationYoung

    GenerationYoung New Member

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    ...
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2012


  10. sorabji

    sorabji Active Member

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    So is there any way to fix this? Or is my only route MTM/bespoke?
     


  11. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    TWEEDPROF

    the alteration shifting the shoulders can be done on your garment.
    perhaps you can have the maker do it for you. or you might have them
    pay to have it done fully or partly.
    if you order again with them or someone else, you must remember
    to ask for the fore ward shoulder change.
    they will do this on the cutting table,. this is very easy to do when cutting
    a new garment. just like the other changes you propose.

    jacket length 1" longer
    button stance 1"and 1/2" lower
    little more room in the waist
    more room across the butt
    sleeve pitch just a "little" to the back
    sleeves 1/2" longer.
    you have a right low shoulder, see the tutorials to find out how
    to measure for a low shoulder. they need to know how much.
     


  12. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    i think the circumference of the cuffs needs be made smaller.
    so that they will not slide down over your hands.
     


  13. verr

    verr Member

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    This is for me? Couldn't find anyone else with this nick. The instructions could be about my jacket, but not sure.
     


  14. HaikalS

    HaikalS New Member

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    Hi there,

    I'm a longtime lurker but first-time poster...need some feedback on a suit I just had made in Hong Kong. Just some background info I'm about 5 foot 10 and 230 pounds.

    I've asked the tailor to taper the bottom of the suit because it seemed to "flare/have too much fabric. Anything else I should get altered?

    (apologies for the quality of the photos, they were taken quite hastily with an iphone and I wasn't standing perfectly straight all the time)


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    Thanks!
     


  15. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you said it.
     


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