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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. pendragon

    pendragon Senior member

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    Oct 2, 2007
    I think it's actually the narrow leg on the pants that makes the shoes look clunky rather than the other way around. Not that it's a problem. It reminds me of the old skinhead look of my yoof.

    However, while the suit fits okay, the sloped shoulders seem to make your head look very long. You might try a shirt with a larger collar to balance it better.
     
  2. Winterbourne

    Winterbourne Senior member

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    Sep 21, 2012
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    Pennyslvania
    

    Hmm, yeah now that you mention it this suit does seem to accentuate my sloped shoulders, which no other article of clothing seems to create this effect (at least not as drastically). I'm wondering if these slim fit suits just don't work that well with my body's structure. I'm 5'10 180lbs., fairly athletic, but this blazer appears to make my upper body look shrunk a little bit if that makes any sense. I will make due with this now and maybe not let my arms hang so limply at my side while wearing it. And I'll likely visit OTCtailor next time to get a better idea of what works better for me.
     
  3. Veridis

    Veridis Well-Known Member

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    Hello Gentlemen, I've recently bought a 3 piece suit from Indochino, and am considering doing a remake.

    I'm 5'3" and 120lbs.
    I'm quite happy with the pants but I prefer the jacket to be on the shorter side.
    And the vest looks a little too long compared to photos of Indochino models.

    I was thinking along these lines:

    Jacket sleeve: -0.5"
    Jacket length: -1.5"
    Vest length: -1"


    Any comments or suggestions will be really appreciated! I have a limited amount of time left to do a remake.


    Here are some photos:




    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. trailer36

    trailer36 Senior member

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    Hey Winterbourne, good to see another Cumberland County resident on here! I am in Mechanicsburg myself. I use 2 people around her for my alteration so if you are interested, drop me a PM and we can discuss.
     
  5. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    New York City, NY, USA
    
    jacket and vest length looks fine. You can cut sleeve either .5 or .25 if the vest is any shorter it will not cover your belt.
     
  6. Veridis

    Veridis Well-Known Member

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    Oct 1, 2012
    I know the jacket length is the standard, but would it hurt to have it shortened 1-1.5"? It feels a little overpowering for my short frame.
    Oh, and does the small inverted "V" in front of the vest have to cover the belt as well?

    I read on the forums that the jacket needs to cover the ass, but I couldn't find much about vest fit.

    My reference is the photo on Indochino's website:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    It seems that the vest barely covers the belt. Then again, there is a possibility of Indochino's models wearing them too short.. hmm.

    Thank you for reading :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2013
  7. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    well, it's a personal preference thing then, 1.5 inch is a lot consider where the jacket is now. Wouldn't the jacket be almost the same length as your sleeve (you can do a quick measurement), even BBBF is not that short. I don't think it will look good, if you really want to cut it, then perhaps 0.5 inch? The vest photo from Indochina is already too short for my taste. If you want to show buckle on your belt, then you can cut shorter, but my personal preference is to show absolutely no belt when wearing a vest (plus I don't wear belt anyway, but different story).
     
  8. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    Vests and belts are kind of tricky. Remember the basic function of a vest is to cover your trouser-holder-uppers - but when vests were actually invented and commonly worn, your trouser-holder-uppers were suspenders, not a belt. There really isn't a 'correct' fit for a vest in relation to a belt, because vests weren't really designed to be worn with belts; if they were, they wouldn't have that notch.

    I think some authorities just say you oughtn't to wear a vest with a belt (it can expand your waistline, apart from anything else), but if you're going to, I don't think there's a Rule concerning how long it should be or how much it should cover your belt, exactly; since it's not a strictly traditionally correct approach, if you're going to do it, you get a bit of flexibility concerning exactly how you do it.

    MHO, anyway :)
     
  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    if his vest is shorter, the notch will show exactly the buckle, guess if that's the effect he wants, then go for it, I personally wouldn't.
     
  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Your trousers should come up to roughly your natural waist, and the vest cover the waistband of the trousers. No belt, and no hip-huggers. If you're not down with that kind of fit, then you should reconsider the three-piece.
     
  11. Veridis

    Veridis Well-Known Member

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    That is a good point you mention, like you I would prefer the jacket to be at least a bit longer than the sleeve. If I take the sleeve up 0.5" I think it is possible to take the jacket up another inch. I may have it tailored instead if it is an easy fix.

    Now that you mention it, I think I should really try a pair of suspenders or go beltless...
     
  12. dusttruffle

    dusttruffle Senior member

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    Expecting delivery of a unconstructed sportscoat with spalla camicia shoulders with working cuffs.

    Assuming it fits everywhere else, do the spalla camicia shoulders (as opposed to more conventional shoulders) present any problems for a tailor to adjust sleeve length from the cap?
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013
  13. katabatic

    katabatic Senior member

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    I had the sleeves of a Suit Supply Sienna (which has the spalla camicia) adjusted at the shoulder (by Andreas Gorges in San Francisco), and it came out beautifully - I can't tell the difference between the factory-attached shoulder and the alteration (aside from the fact that it fits better now, of course).

    Obviously, it costs more, but it shouldn't present any particular problem for a skilled tailor.
     
  14. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    FYI I will be in Harrisburg next Friday the 19th for various appointments. PM me if you're interested in catching up.
     
  15. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Tailors,

    I got this SC back from my tailor yesterday, he did some minor waist supression. But my sister told me yesterday that she thinks in the chest area looks big. And with the fisrt pic I think she's right, what do you think? Could that be an easy fix?


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. evpj2L

    evpj2L Well-Known Member

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    Mar 10, 2008
    I'd greatly appreciate feedback on my latest attempt at a MTM OCBD. Thoughts on overall fit?

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  17. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Could just suppress the front darts...will give shape to that area. It is limited, though. Also if its full canvas there has to be an adjustment to the canvas too
     
  18. Flyswatter

    Flyswatter Senior member

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    I'm not a tailor but I'll comment anyway: fit looks pretty good, though there is some unsightly pulling at the third button from the top (first buttoned button). Perhaps a tailor can comment as to how to remedy it, but my guess is it's a bit too tight in the chest. Also odd that while the collar points seem fairly long, there is no roll whatsoever. Perhaps the collar buttons need to be moved up about a quarter of an inch or so.
     
  19. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    It looks a little short. Next one you do just measure from the highest point of your trap muscle straight down to the base of your crotch. If you plan to wear it mostly tucked in then it should be close to the length of A jacket. If not tucked, the tails should def be shallow like they are now. So are you wearing this untucked or tucked. Right now it looks like it would fairly easily come untucked with a little bit of movement.
     
  20. nautikal

    nautikal Well-Known Member

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    Aug 24, 2010
    

    Based on the direction of pulling, it looks like the shoulder needs to be cut more square. evpj2L, try forcing your shoulders down a bit to see if that alleviates some of that pulling.

    See here. Get a tailor's advice too (I am not one).
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2013

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