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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Thanks for your answer OTC! I think it's the shoulder pad. That it is not well accommodated. But I don't know if it could be easily fix. Overall how do you see the jacket? It look a bit snug in the back waist area, but I'm a bit fat right know, when I cut back that would not be a problem. [​IMG]

    Another question. Can the quarters of the jacket could be opened?
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013
  2. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Could anyone give feedback on this linen Sportscoat? I feel it's a little too wide near my hips, below the waist. Thanks!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looks a wee bit snug at the waist, and the sleeves could be a hair shorter, but I think it looks good on you.
     
  4. Ketawa

    Ketawa Senior member

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    Norfolk
    Thanks for the advice! I think my plan will be to send this suit back, then repurchase it once I've regained some strength. I'm not in a hurry to buy something right now, and I'll probably have access to some better tailors when I move in a few months.

    Looking for a longer jacket is tricky. Not many places seem to carry 44XL. 44L in Brooks Brothers suits is definitely too short on me and the shoulders don't fit me well on 44XL. Although I do have some 44XL Milano suits coming in the mail tomorrow that I'm going to try out.

    I'm right handed. Here's a couple shots of the inside of the cuffs. There was a Put This On post on Suit Supply that mentioned the drawback of working cuffs, but hopefully there will be enough room later on. I might also need the left sleeve lengthened later on.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Thanks for the feedback, it's much appreciated!
     
  6. radchad3

    radchad3 Active Member

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    Hello all! Looking for some suggestions on this coat! One of the sleeves and the collar are pinned. Thank you!


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  7. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    Thanks Nore and OTC.

    These have been washed and air-dryed a long for over a year now.
     
  8. dufferin1

    dufferin1 Senior member

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    Odd question here fella's, but is there a correlation between shoulders getting bigger (dude to working out) , and waist feeling tighter because its sitting higher on your body? Tried on my SC today and its definitely tighter in the waist, but also seems to be riding up on my body. May I should just stick to cardio
     
  9. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Dear Tailors:

    I think it is clear from the picture that I have a noticeable bow leg. I'm curious how a trouser can be cut for this, while still being slim. I can see that a fuller cut might hide the curve but being youngish, can't really stand a fuller cut. The jacket below has been critiqued on this thread so ignore that.

    On my left leg, you can clearly see,that the crease does not create a straight line. I have no idea how you can cut trousers to hide this better. Would you cut the thigh area a little trimmer, the knee a little fuller, but taper to the cuff (which is about 8.25 inches). Would this give more of a straight line on the inside of the leg? Nothing, I think, can be done on the outside.

    Thoughts?
    [​IMG]
     
  10. breakHARD77

    breakHARD77 Well-Known Member

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    Nov 25, 2011
    Dear Tailors:

    Just ordered my first shirt from Proper Cloth. Seems to fit okay - I am about to order additional shirts, so I am trying to fine-tune the sizing. There seems to be excess material in the back - how should I ask them to address that going forward? Any feedback/comments would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

    Shirt Dimensions:

    * Presidential Spread Collar
    * Collar Around: 16.00
    * Sleeve Length: 33.00
    * Yoke Width: 17.75
    * Chest Width: 21.50
    * Midsection Width: 18.50
    * Shirt Length: 30.50
    * Sleeve Width: 8.00
    * Cuff Around: 8.75
    * Bottom Width: 20.00
    * Watch Allowance: None
    * Shoulder Slope: Sloping Shoulders
    * Forearm: Slim
    * Shoulder/Armpit Fit: Full
    * Rear Pleats: None
    * Posture: Normal

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  11. Donbo04

    Donbo04 New Member

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    Jan 1, 2013
    Hello Tailors:

    I recently bought an OTR suit and appreciate any feedback you can provide on fit. My thoughts are that the jacket seems to fit in the shoulders but is loose through the body. The trousers need to be taken in an inch or two at the waist and shortened. The sleeves on the jacket also need to be shortened. This is a 42R. I also bought a 40R to try on for size, but the shoulders seemed too tight. As background, I have a fairly athletic build with about an 8 or 9 inch drop. Broad shoulders and a wider back compared to my waist, so it's hard to find a jacket that fits in both the shoulders and body.

    One thing I noticed is that there seems to be a slight horizontal crease on both sleeves right under where the sleeves attach to the shoulder. Does this mean that the jacket doesn't fit in the shoulders? I included close-up pics of what I'm referring to.

    Can I make this suit work with the proper alterations or is the fit off enough that I should look elsewhere?

    Thanks in advance for your advice!

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  12. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Location:
    Madrid
    Alright, a little question with self-made diagrams involved.

    On some bespoke and high-end RTW, I have noticed a kind of waist suppression / silhouette that I find really flattering, and is very different from what I get on my MTM stuff.

    My jackets are cut like this, with a gradual waist suppression that, due to my proportions, creates an hourglass shape which I find femenine and unflattering:

    [​IMG]


    While the jackets I like are shaped differently; gradual waist suppression until we reach the hips, where there is a more pronounced outwards curve, then the skirt falls straight, like this:

    [​IMG]


    My question is if it is possible to take a finished jacket that looks like (A), but with a looser fitting waist, to a tailor, and have it shaped like (B) (just the waist/hips transition area, not the chest drape obviously). I'm thinking the front dart might get in the way, but want to be sure.

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013
  13. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just to be clear: You prefer B? If so, I think you're swimming upstream against the general consensus of what good tailoring looks like.
     
  14. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    I am not tailor and perhaps you have thought this through and you may not give a hoot about my thoughts(which is fair and fine)
    but the A sketch is no more feminine than the B.
    I do not know your physique which matters or maybe these pics are exaggerated but if you look at an hourglass or the bombshells of the 60s putting that figure to the limit, they pop
    more in the same line as the B sketch. And again, I am no tailor, but creating almost hard angles would seem difficult.
    At least you seem to know to have the skirt of the jacket not flaring and to be near perpendicular to the ground. This is what I find the most the egregious of sins in many of the fawned over SF glitterati.
    Proportions of the body must dictate some of the shape of the jacket. Features that exaggerate the worst points of one's physique makes no sense to me.

    Perhaps if you showed live pics of jackets you prefer vs dislike?
     
  15. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I do prefer B, and I think it's the main reason why I believe DB looks better on me (most DB's are cut with that sort of silhouette). Perhaps I've exaggerated it a bit, but it was just to illustrate my pont better.

    I don't think it should be against what good tailoring looks like, it's just that different silhouettes are better suited to certain body types. Here is an example of (B), by Slewfoot:


    [​IMG]

    while mine look more like this example from Vox (and I hate the way it looks on me):

    [​IMG]

    Perhaps it's the overall "curviness" of the jacket what I don't like. I feel like it creates an effect similar to that of jackets with overly high buttoning points, contributing to perceived pear shape. Mine are cut with more rounded quarters too, so that might contribute as well.

    My last MTM is at the tailor right now, but will try to snap a pic when I get it back.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013
  16. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    If I may though it might be a bit of SF heresy....

    I have seen that pic of Slewfoot. One thing to note is that his arms are not hanging straight down. They are bent a bit at the elbow and possibly(though maybe they hang there naturally)
    or thus pushed out a bit and cover the shape of the bottom of the jacket so you cannot quite be sure how it ends. If there is another pic showing it, fine.
    But from this one you cannot tell if the skirt comes down straight(as we both prefer or anyone with any sense would) or is creating the bell shape.
    I see the angle that you speak of near the waist and while it is fine for me besides not knowing about the skirt, the front of the jacket is not looking proper around the top bottom. Due to the arm position?Could be but I cannot say from this photo and default is that there is an issue.

    As for your pic, while the skirt is to the bottom of your thumb, considered low or 'not short', I think you would benefit from more length and more closed quarters. Or because it is a relatively high button stance for 2B could be a factor. You mention DB and the whole thing with those is they are, generally, longer even when the same overall 'style' as SB.

    Also, if the style of sketch A/slewfoot goes awry, projecting a small chest and large hips is not becoming of a man. Child bearing hips are for women. Well, I don't prefer those on women either but nevertheless.

    Since you have artistic skills, just draw in a bit more to your jacket on your photo. A tad on the quarters and the length and you will see. Finding a color to match closely should be easy enough to get a good idea of it.

    What is ironic is that the issue you seem to care about is the same that I mentioned about all those fancy suits that are wrong for the wearer except in yours, it does not give an awful impression of your physique. But there is 'something' off.
     
  17. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Just to be clear, the second pic is not me, it's Vox - but that's the silhouette that I think doesn't work on me. My jacket is a bit longer and has a lower button stance. I have wide hips and narrow shoulders, but a rather wide chest for my height. To disguise those hips, I asked my latest MTM jacket to be cut roomier at the waist so there's less shape, but I still think there's something strange about its silhouette. Need to post pics when it comes back from the tailor (he's remaking the shoulders).

    The goal would be to have B but with a roomier chest and extended shoulders so the hips don't look wider than the chest. For some reason, with the same hip width, (A) looks like "womanly" hips to me, but (B) looks like "manly" hips. And when hips are actually a bit wider than the chest, I find (B) much more flattering than (A).

    Or maybe I'm just overthinking this too much. But really, I'd rather have a flattering silhouette than perfect, body-contouring fit.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013
  18. nautikal

    nautikal Well-Known Member

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    Just out of curiosity, how does one adjust the skirt of the jacket to achieve what you describe? Back length? Back waist suppression? Vent style/cut? My jackets often flare in the back due to a large seat and hollow lower back.
     
  19. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    Obviously, I agree with your intuition against pear shaped and the like.
    And this is the problem I see with fitting the SF, Napoletano style that is prevalent.
    A short jacket has less chance to inflect back downward to perpendicular(to the ground) and thus if your hips
    are forcing it outward(the more so from more waist suppression) it does not get back on the proper path to the floor.
    Pics of yourself will help clarify. I understand what you are trying to avoid and agree but if you are recutting the jacket with a roomier waist, the angle that you alluded to in the sketches is less of a big deal. Have you thought of a very strong, even roped, shoulder rather than just pure extension? Smart not to get the narrow, soft shouldered jacket but wondering if there was more than just a wider shoulder to shoulder measurement in your process.
     
  20. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    My tailor measures the shoulders from the collar felt to the sleeve seam. He's just extended that measure 1cm compared to previous jackets. I've asked him to deconstruct the shoulders a little (leaving just some thin padding to avoid droopiness) because I like the slope on my shoulders and don't want to build them up. The jacket came with some serious padding from the factory. When he attaches the sleeves back he will do so with a slight roping (I asked him to and the sleeves were made a bit longer with that in mind).

    All of this silhouette thing comes from the resulting jacket being perhaps way too roomy, and I was wondering if it was possible to slim it down like (B) rather than (A).
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013

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