1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    My compliments sir! You are tenacious in learning to sew and are doing well. Do you live anywhere near a tailor that makes jackets or trousers? Your next step would be to watch someone experienced doing this work and here's why. You are learning what to do but not how to do it. The sooner you can learn how things should be sewn together , how to hold a garment when sewing, how to prepare things before sewing them, etc., the better you will be and you will progress faster than teaching yourself. It's like developing a golf swing, you want proper instruction sooner rather than later so you don't create bad habits that are hard to unlearn. You will be amazed at how many questions will come to you after watching someone sew. It isn't easy or maybe even possible to critique your sewing because we can't know what or how you did it.
     
  2. inlandisland

    inlandisland Senior member

    Messages:
    557
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Thank you Despos - the encouragement means a great deal to me and what you're saying makes a lot of sense. There is one old italian guy in Winnipeg with a shop by the name of Sefarino Falvo who does full bespoke, or something close to it. I've talked with him once and he is very nice, but I'm not sure he would be willing to invest that kind of time in me... Romolo Fracassi is another higher-end tailor that I've not yet visited. There are also a few asian 'custom tailors' throughout the city, but some look questionable and others I have not had the time to investigate.

    Regardless, I have been having an impossible time finding nice buttons anywhere in the city, so my plan was to take my jacket in its current state and visit Serafino and/or Romolo to ask if I could buy some buttons off them and maybe get some feedback. There are times I honestly think that if I didn't have the financial responsibilities I have accumulated I would seek out an apprenticeship so that I could learn the proper ways of doing things. As it is, I am almost a year behind schedule on my Masters Thesis because I'm sewing instead :cry:
     
  3. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    

    The way I look at it, what you need to change is less the jacket and more your approach to coatmaking. I too made a trial garment but I "proofed" it at every step. Like you, I did this to go through all the steps without worrying too much about perfection. But unlike you, I wanted every part to be approximately right before I proceeded to the next. I thought a lot about the macro stuff. The approach, mostly.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2011
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    Hymo,
    It is very interesting to see the uniformity of length and spacing of your basting stitches along the frontparts. That isn't beginners luck but very intentional.
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2011
  5. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    I'm surprised at the uniformity myself. I didn't draw lines or anything. However, I'm now apprenticing part time and my master draws chalklines on the canvas to guide my basting (on a real customer's job).
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    I have a friend who is almost 60 and when I see him he will occasionally mention " I have only one more paper to finish to get my diploma" He's owned a restaurant since college and does OK. He's also the guy who..."went to the Kentucky Derby, was there for 3 days and I never saw one horse."
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2011
  7. inlandisland

    inlandisland Senior member

    Messages:
    557
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Hymo - Great work. Is that yor first attempt? It looks very clean. I agree with the feedback that I need to learn more, take a more systematic approach overall, and initiate contact with a mentor in some capacity.

    Sorry for the minor thread derailment.
     
  8. noobstyle

    noobstyle Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2011
    Going to order a sample shirt using this shirt as a template. Any feedback?

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Sleeve 22"
    Chest/waist/hips: 17.7"
    shoulder 5.6"
    Yoke 15.7"
    Cuff 3.7"
    Arm opening 8.1"
    Bicep 7.3"
    Length 26.9"
     
  9. svisj

    svisj New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2011
    Thank you for the insightful response, I'm very grateful. Though, in my infinite dumbness, some of these things are not all clear to me. The shirt sleeves are quite obviosly too long, and I apologize. I didn't think that through. But whats unclear to me are these parts:

    "yours is a slightly round back that is puling up the bottom of the back slightly.
    but your head and neck are erect, causing that lump of cloth to stick up.
    the back needs to be shortened at the top, but only enough to remove that lump of cloth. you dont want to pull the back up any more."

    Are you still talking about the shirt, or the jacket? And, after considering it, I just don't understand what you're aiming at. This might be due to my lack of english fluency, so I would be grateful for a dumbed down version ;)

    And, finally: Is there hope? Can a tailor make it OK? I'm a student, so my budget is limited, so I can accept something that's not a hundred percent model fit!
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2011
  10. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    sorry, no offense meant. it was supposed to be a lol.
     
  11. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    
    look at the side views. see the lump of cloth sticking up just below the coat collar. thats what needs to be removed. its done by shortening the back at the top. if the tailor removes too much cloth, it will pull up the back at the bottom. the coat sleeves do need to be shortened, as well as the shirt sleeves. for some more info go to search and ask for "balance explained".
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2011
  12. Trainwreck

    Trainwreck Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2011
    Thank you for your reply, and I was afraid you would say that. My erect posture makes it very difficult to find jackets that balance properly, which usually manifests itself in puckering lapels. Are there suit makers out there that work better for an erect posture or am I forced to go with bespoke or at least MTM?
     
  13. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

    Messages:
    12,284
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2010
    Location:
    Home
    Some photos after work. Someone asked about the hem so I took some photos.

    They are at 7.75" currently and after getting the right side fixed (my right up sits higher than left) I like the overall fit of the pants. Didn't wear a belt so the appearance may look a tad loose/sagging.
    After talking previously, I don't think I am going to change these as I personally like them the way they are. Will get other pants in similar measurements.

    Thanks for all the feedback, tailors! FYI, I've been sitting in the office for 5+ hours and occasionally getting up. Aside from fit issues, please excuse the wrinkles

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2011
  14. hymo

    hymo Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Location:
    Hermes Man land
    

    Yeah first attempt, but three uncanvassed muslins preceeded it because I wanted the pattern approximately right before doing anything. I did not have a mentor; it was just the literature and me.

    I'm PMing you the link to my blog where I documented my progress with this trial garment.
     
  15. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,837
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    Why not share with everyone?
     
  16. Gorpomon

    Gorpomon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    58
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2011
    Quote:

    Yikes! Seam vs. hem, I should have recognized the error I was making. That's not even from a lack of tailoring knowledge, that's my knowledge of common English vocabulary temporarily abandoning my body.

    Also, thank you for putting that issue to rest for me, for about two years I've been seeing those and wondering why my tailor didn't like/care enough to make my seams straight, and now I realize what a fool I've been. I seem to recall reading a style commandment somewhere that says "trust your tailor", and now I think that has finally sunk in.
     
  17. Getzione

    Getzione Senior member

    Messages:
    297
    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2009
    

    Some of my MTM shirts get this diagonal creases running from the armpit through the chest (As seen on the photo). The other parts of the shirt fits clean to the body. Does anybody know what may cause this? How may it be fixed for future orders?
     
  18. TDP

    TDP Senior member

    Messages:
    214
    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2010
    Location:
    Cambridge, MA
    I believe it's because your shoulders are too wide, which creates this tension in the fabric around the button.
     
  19. Getzione

    Getzione Senior member

    Messages:
    297
    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2009
    

    Really? I dont think these shoulders are that much wider than my other shirts. I should mention I have forward pitched shoulders. I thought it might be a chest+armhole thing, but you might be right. Can anyone confirm this?
     
  20. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,429
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2011
    The following measurements are from a suit labelled 40L; but could the measurements are work for a Regular fit? (i.e. I'm a 38/40R, not a 38/40L).
    The only thing that stands out is the sleeve, which I would have to shorten by an inch.


    Jacket Measurements:
    P2P 20.5"
    Shoulders 18"
    Waist 18"
    BOC 30.5"
    Sleeve 26" (plus 1.5" to let out if you're a giant)

    Pants Measurements (tagged 32"):
    Waist 33"
    Front Rise 11.5"
    Thigh 12.5"
    Knee 9.5"
    Leg Opening 9" (unfinished)
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by