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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. MrChris

    MrChris Senior member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Sweden
    I'm not looking to alter the jacket below, but rather to ask for opinions regarding adjustments to make for future comissions (MTM).
    My own thoughts:

    1. Perhaps lowering the buttoning point slightly
    2. Letting the waist out slightly

    [​IMG]

    Unbuttoned:
    [​IMG]

    Opinions welcomed!
     
  2. buckshot86

    buckshot86 New Member

    Messages:
    2
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    Feb 18, 2013
    *sigh*
    All right thanks. I appreciate the feedback.
     
  3. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    I apologize for the late reply but I was gone for a week that didn't involve working...
    Anyway, I would get the back rise lowered. With a flat seat, the back rise being too long will almost always be a problem.
     
  4. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Again, I would check the fit of the seat, the back rise, and the stride looks a little full. Too long IMHO as well.
    Jacket sleeves are short.
     
  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    I think the jacket fits well but it could use a little more room at the back part of the shoulder blades. The jacket front and back waist can be suppressed, as well. Looks pretty clean otherwise.
     
  6. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    It's really hard to tell what's going on with this suit from these pics. It looks like you've done some reading which is good but please go back to the very first post in the thread and consider abiding by the photo posting guidelines. You've got some fairly complicated issues going on with this suit and the pics need to be as clear as day...without you posing or moving your limbs around. Please wear shoes and a different dress shirt, too.
    There are some things that appear to be pretty obvious to me, but the fit of the dress shirt combined with not great pics makes it hard to accurately comment.
     
  7. Tony Stark

    Tony Stark Member

    Messages:
    11
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    Feb 5, 2013
    [originally posted this in the wrong place - I see now that the photos aren't exactly in accordance with the guidance in the first post, so if nothing can be gleaned from these, let me know and I'll try to get them retaken tonight]
     
  8. robbrechter

    robbrechter Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    77
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    Jun 12, 2010
    

    When you have a free moment, would you mind taking a look at my shirt's fit a bit further up the page? Thanks! :D
     
  9. caseyfud

    caseyfud Senior member

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    I'm not a tailor, but I think that shirt is way too tight.
     
  10. robbrechter

    robbrechter Well-Known Member

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    Jun 12, 2010
    My original shirts were getting tight (fatherhood/adulthood) and I added an inch or so to them, but obviously not enough. Selfies posted on the internet really put weight gain into perspective. I'm hoping that some of the waist bulging effect is from the pants being tight, since suits are hopefully getting replaced in the near future anyway. Or at least I'll keep that in the front of my mind to prevent myself from feeling too disheartened.

    But anyway, even with expanding out the stomach and chest (1", 2", ??), still concerned about the shoulders/yoke and how to fix what feels like sleeve twisting.

    Either way, appreciate your feedback.
     
  11. caseyfud

    caseyfud Senior member

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    of course, glad to help. I try not to get involved since this is the "tailor's" thread, so that's my small observation.
     
  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
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    Tailors:

    A general question: I find OTR trousers to usually lack the nice line from the seat to the foot in the back (the front seems easier to achieve). There tends to be bunching in the thigh back just below the seat

    (1) Can this be tailored to create the nice line and how?
    (2) what is the proper way to ensure a nice line when trousers are made.

    Thanks
     
  13. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

    Messages:
    2,905
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    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Hello everyone!

    I recently got a shirt from a MTM site online and it's got some issues. I was wondering if anyone would like to help.

    Something needs to change with the armpits, it's too tight for sure there. It also pulls from the armpit to the collar. I know I don't have sloping shoulders so that's not the issue. I also believe the forearms on the shirt may need to be taken in just a bit.


    [​IMG]

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    ETA: This in no way should reflect on the MTM company, Luxure, who did exactly as I had asked. It's all on me.


    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
  14. bvbrandonv

    bvbrandonv Member

    Messages:
    7
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    Mar 5, 2013
    Hey everyone!

    I ordered a couple MTM shirt online utilizing measurements from a well fitting shirt. My main issue, as you can see from the pics, is the extra fabric between the collar and shoulders. I know the pic's are not great, but any suggestions on how to rectify this issue would be most appreciated. Also, if you have comments on anything else you see as far as the fit is concerned please let me know. I am a big fan of finally having some clothing that fit better than OTR, and think I'm very close to having some excellent shirts! Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Measurements in inches-
    Collar: 15.75
    Half Chest: 20.88
    Half Waist: 18.25 (thinking this may be a bit to snug compared to chest)
    Half Hip: 20
    Sleeve: 24.75
    Half Bicep: 7
    Cuff: 8.5
    Yoke: 17
    Shoulder: 5.5
    *Also going to add a bit on the arm holes as they are a bit snug.
     
  15. ninjali

    ninjali Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2013
    Hey SF,

    Recently bought a SuitSupply Sienna (Suit Up Collection) Navy suit and took some pics. Would love some feedback on the fit. Please disregard the shoes and pant length as I haven't gotten them hemmed yet. Also don't mind the shirt all that much. Thanks!!


    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
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    Jun 1, 2012
    @ bvbrandonv
    Looks pretty good to me, but have you laundered the shirt at least three times? Do this and see how it fits then.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013
  17. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

    Messages:
    5,073
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    Sep 25, 2012
    Location:
    Mexico City
    
    That look weird (the excess of fabric on the shoulders), but aside from that looks pretty good to me, but I'm no expert. Maybe it needs ironing, but then again, I'm no experts, then I don't know, sorry. But I wanted to ask, from where did you get it?
     
  18. Willin

    Willin Senior member

    Messages:
    413
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2010
    So this is a Style911.

    I have a problem where literally every suit jacket/sport coat/blazer I try on has very noticeable rippling in the shoulders. I am 5'9" and generally find that 41S is the best fit for me in terms of shoulder width, etc. I have a 16.5" neck and 32/33 arms.

    The problem is really due to my physique and skeletal frame. I have a muscular, bodybuilder type phsyique which causes the chest on jackets to to push out and my shoulders are decent sized as well. However I believe the main problem is that my back arches back more than most people when I am standing upright which also brings my shoulders more fully drawn back. This causes the problem and my chest muscles accentuate the pulling on the shoulders which is causing the rippling. See the Lumbar Lordosis picture in the diagram below. That's kind of how my back is arched.

    I need to know if there is anything I can look for to get a properly fitting jacket or if I am forced to go bespoke. I don't really have the means to drop $1,200.00 on a bespoke navy blazer so that is going to be a big difficulty. Can I get OTR jackets then have the sleeve angle changed? I know that would be costly but again, bespoke would be too expensive. What would a tailor specifically alter to accomodate my frame?

    I'd say my back is shaped kind of like the 3rd one from the left. Lumbar Lordosis.

    [​IMG]

    Please forgive the marginal photo quality as I am using a terribly old, outdated camera.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2013
  19. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
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    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    Will.i.n

    Sorry, couldn't help it...
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. itraxx

    itraxx Senior member

    Messages:
    171
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    Aug 15, 2012
    Location:
    Geneva, Switzerland
    Lordosis can be corrected through stretching and exercise, I did it myself not too long ago.
     

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