The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    badger!, be glad to oblige but.
    we need to have you button your shirt collar and upright the pics.
    its difficult for my ancient neck bones to handle that angle.
     


  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    why didnt you button your shirt collar?
    the seat/hips seem to be too tight.
    you have a right low shoulder with the
    usual high right hip.
     


  3. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes it can be done, providing there is enough cloth available.
     


  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    if the shoulder problem shows on the hanger
    , take it back.
    40 long is a better size.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2012


  5. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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  6. togglebutton

    togglebutton Well-Known Member

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    I'm just about to place a new order for a mtm suit. My first suit turned out fairly well however i would like to make some small adjustments to measurement for my new suit.

    This is the fit of my first suit.
    1)[​IMG]
    This is a close up of the collar. Ideally, i would like my jacket to be able to cover my collar tips. There is minor gapping between the collar of the jacket and my shirt. Is there any immediate adjustments i can make to my measurements that can remedy the situation for my future suit? possibly increasing my chest measurement size by half an inch?
    2)[​IMG]
    Ideally, i would like my jacket to fit like below, where the collar is tucked deeply under the jacket.
    3)[​IMG]


    Lastly, what measurement(s) directly increases the size of the front jacket flap? Correct me if i'm wrong but i figured, if the highlight area (on both sides) was a little bit bigger, it would be able minimize the gap between the collars.
    4)[​IMG]
     


  7. chocsosa

    chocsosa Senior member

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    Honestly that is a really small collar for that kind of suit IMO..
     


  8. joshuadowen

    joshuadowen Senior member

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    I think this has more to do with the shirt than with the jacket. In order to get the edges of the shirt collar under your jacket lapels, you need a larger spread on the shirt collar.
     


  9. finch5

    finch5 New Member

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    Hi all,

    I just tailored a suit and would like to get some feedback on the fit.

    I personally feel that the skirt of the bottom center part of the suit (not sure what that is called) is not spaced apart enough.

    Please advise on what kind of changes I can make to my suit to achieve the effect as circled in the picture below.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thank you all in advance for your valuable feedback and advice!
     


  10. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you dont give us a back view or side view.
    none the less. the entire front of the coat is too small.
    the neck hole needs to be filled in at the sides, cant see the back.
    you have a right low shoulder, thats why the gap is more on the right.
    check the tutorials about the low shoulder and how to measure for it.

    tell them about your concerns and send them all of the pictures.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2012


  11. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    I don't know where to place this doubt, but the last time I opened a thread asking about MTM suits I got no respone, so here it goes, I hope someone can help.

    Yesterday I went to buy two MTM jackets. The tailor tooke the measurements and all that stuff and the things I want. I told him that I wanted natural shoulders on the jakcets. I was weating this suit (see pic below), so I told him, "I don't want the shoulders to look like this ones, I was told that this are pagoda shoulders, I want them to look natural" (I showed him a pic from the forum of a suit with natural shoulders). I was kinda amazed by his response, he told me that the in the pic that I showed him those shoulders were fallen (I don't know if this is the right term, but he was reffering to the shoulders of the guy, not the jacket) you shoulders are bigger and up... and to end the stroy quickly, mainly cause I don't know how to explain it well, his point was that they only make one kind of shoulder. I'm scared. I want to see how they look, but I don't know if it would be good to continue buying MTM suits there. I choose some good but cheap fabrics to test their ability, so expect some pics in the next weeks.


    [​IMG]
     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Betelgeuse, that is a problem with MTM, the factory is set up to do things in a certain way and cannot vary their techniques. You have to find someone who makes the style of shoulder you want.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2012


  13. GloStiX

    GloStiX Senior member

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    That's a pretty good fit. Where is it from?


    What you want is called "open quarters"
     


  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    everything looks too tight. so dont go smaller on the shoulders or chest.
    yes you want a trim fit but this is over done. none of the three pieces can
    be altered enough.
    the jackets waist could be 2" larger and the seat 2" larger.
    the jackets length needs to be an inch and a half longer.
    the trouser pockets are gaping that means its far too tight.
    that needs about 2" more in the seat measure..
    that should increase the thigh, unless you have heavy thigh muscles.
    in that case add a bit more at the thigh. it can always be taken in if
    it gets too large.
    the vest is too short, while it is on you measure from the center of the bottom
    button to the center of your belt buckle. thats how much longer the vest
    should be made.
     


  15. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    not sure that there is an official name for this, but most folks call it the quarters.
    if this is a made to measure suit, you will need to send them that picture.
    or give them an accurate measurement of the curve. `
    across the back at the blade level there is some excess width to take in.
    lower back at the butt you need a bout 1" more width.
    you have a right low shoulder that can be adjusted for on the cutting table.
    for info on the low shoulder see the tutorials.

    the extreme narrow trouser bottoms are making your feet appear
    to be much very larger than they really are.
     


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