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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Perhaps a bit more accurately (tho without side/back pics we can never tell)...

    Probably has fairly prominent thighs and prominent seat/hips. This combo of attributes usually means more width is needed in the front of the trouser to eliminate gaping pockets. Either pleats, or a darted front is usually a good idea. Depending on how the pants are constructed (I've never seen this brand), the waistband can be offed up to the front of the trouser, the waist can be let out and all that fullness shifted to the front. You put a dart over the thigh to deal with the added fullness being shifted to the front and then reattach the waistband. Now there's fullness in the front instead of gaping at the back.
    Going up a size and taking in the waist doesn't necessarily fix the problem. Also, it can add other problems like too much fullness in the crotch/seat/stride/rise [​IMG]
     
  2. Magnicusser

    Magnicusser Member

    Messages:
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    Sep 21, 2011
    Location:
    Brussels, Belgium
    I recently bought some shirts with darts. However the back is provided with darts, I'm still not convinced about the fit.

    Can a tailor alter the shirt for me by modifying the original darts? Or does the tailor need to take the sides in?

    Thanks!
     
  3. 100ms

    100ms New Member

    Messages:
    2
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    Feb 17, 2013
    42S jacket from Suitsupply. As usual for me, the sleeves are a little long, but any other suggestions? I'd wear a different shirt and pants, but comments on them are welcome too if you can actually tell something from my bad pictures.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  4. TyCooN

    TyCooN Senior member

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    Location:
    2o6
    Hello all. I'm new to this side of the forum and just recently bought my first suit.

    [​IMG]

    My suit pants end around there, so how much should it be lengthened to achieve the quarter break?:eh:
     
  5. buckshot86

    buckshot86 New Member

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    2
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    Feb 18, 2013
    Hi all.

    I recently bought a new suit from a local tailor (first new one in almost ten years). I have a tall, slender build so I typically have all my dress shirts (both button down and polos) slimmed down. Hence, when I bought this suit I asked my tailor to recommend a brand with a slimmer fit and had the jacket taken in. I also had to have the sleeves lengthened.

    However, I'm worried I was overly aggressive as I've received a few comments that the jacket is too short or possibly too small. It only comes to the top of the back pants pocket. Is it too short? I've heard the trend is to shorter jackets, so I'm wondering if this is passable or could if further alterations could help (it's non-returnable at this point). Other comments are also welcome.

    Thanks!


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. azumi

    azumi Senior member

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    Feb 20, 2012
    Yes, the jacket is too short.. but you need advice from an expert like Sir OTC.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Hi everybody,

    This is a Tom Ford Base T in 38R; the shoulders and chest seem fine, but can the waist be taken out without throwing off the pitch of the suit? Is it a big job?

    Also, the jacket is cut longer than most DB jackets; what do you guys think? Take the plunge, or avoid?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2013
  8. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    Mar 7, 2012
    buckshot: agree with azumi, to an amateur that looks _way_ short. there's a 'trend towards short jackets', and then there's 'barely covers the trouser waistband'. :) you also have a bad case of non-intentional 'open quarters', which is probably related to the shortness. the lapels look like they're bowing too...the whole thing just looks over-aggressive. otc may be able to tell you if it's fixable, but i'm guessing 'no'. He may also tell you it depends on how the initial alterations were done.
     
  9. strangedream

    strangedream Well-Known Member

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    Dec 5, 2011
    Location:
    Somewhere over the rainbow where you can get drunk
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    These are not my suit, but made by tailor shop that I am interested and got curious what you guys think of their works for a reference.
     
  10. strangedream

    strangedream Well-Known Member

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    Somewhere over the rainbow where you can get drunk
    Another suit by the same tailor shop, DB this time. To me it looks a little too roomy, probably because it's DB. I never like DB unless it's quite a slim fit. What do you guys think?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Madrid
    Both suits look awesome, strangedream. The pants could be a little roomier to avoid those wrinkles in the back (though they may be caused by long back balance, I can't tell), and they could be longer, but if that's your thing, it's OK. Both jackets look very nice, and the DB doesn't look roomy at all; if you make it slimmer you risk destroying its clean lines...
     
  12. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

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    Location:
    San Francisco, California
    +1 on roomier pants. Your leg opening doesn't cover any of your shoe lacing.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2013
  13. strangedream

    strangedream Well-Known Member

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    Somewhere over the rainbow where you can get drunk
    Yeah I guess you're right on DB. I don't know why but when I look at the DB on the smaller image as I posted here now, it doesn't rook as roomy as its original image size did for some reason.
     
  14. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Location:
    Mexico City
    I second Mr Diaz point. I think, I'm no expert, that maybe in the DB jacket the buttons stance could be, just a tad lower and would avoid that "boxy" look. But I think that both of them look very very nice! [​IMG]
     
  15. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    Mar 7, 2012
    agreed! I'm confused by the comment that they're not yours, because they appear to fit perfectly, especially the SB - better than 99% of the ones posted in this thread...if I were you I'd pay cash down for the SB right now and take it :)
     
  16. Chase H

    Chase H Senior member

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    Nov 5, 2012
    I have a question for the tailors who frequent this thread. I have, in the past, tried to post pictures, but the only camera I have is very bad, so I'll just ask a general question.

    The dimpling in the shoulders of my suit is odd. I have other suits with similar shoulder lengths that don't dimple noticeably. I think I remember reading it was something to do with the chest being too tight, but the chest doesn't feel particularly tight. The biceps, though, are very snug. What should I do in regards to the dimpling for the next suit?
     
  17. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Lehigh Valley, PA
    The jacket is far too short...Too tight in the chest as well. Also looks tight over the shoulders and across the upper back.
    Because of the way your pants are falling in the back it looks even worse.
    There's nothing that can be done to fix it. Best you can do is wear it with well fitting dark jeans.
     
  18. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    I can occur from being tight in the blades or across the upper back, as well. Anything that pulls at the lateral portion of the armhole will cause it to compress. The dimple, or divot, is the effect of a compressed armhole. If it's tight in the blades, you may be able to let it out at the sideseams near the tightness to remedy. If it's tight in the chest, time to get a new jacket...depending on how tight it is, of course.
     
    2 people like this.
  19. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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    If you can get that under $1000, you`ve struck a deal - as close to perfect as you will get!
     
  20. Chase H

    Chase H Senior member

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    Nov 5, 2012
    How can I tell where it's tight? And could the dimpling be from the shoulders being too large? I will try to post pictures tomorrow.
     

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