The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

    Messages:
    5,161
    Likes Received:
    6,386
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2012
    Location:
    Mexico City
    Quote: Yes and no. Your description is a little unclear. The shoulder width across the top part of the shoulders is the point to point measurement. If you want the jacket to be wider at the top of the shoulder you can only let out the center back seam from the collar to the waist. There is no outlet at the shoulder pint where the sleeves are attached unless it is custom made and the tailor left outlets. I am not sure if you need 3/8" on each side of the center back seam or 3/8" total across the whole back. If you let out either amount on the center seam it creates a couple problems. The collar becomes too small for the neck yoke. The center back seam becomes very curved and will lay differently across your blades. May be good, may be bad. You will see a very small, if any, difference from the front view.

    If the jacket is tight across the back, first let it out at the under arm of the side body and see how much better the jacket feels. If you need more, try letting out the center back seam.

    Hi Despos. I will see the tailor today and I want to talk with him about this issue you told me.

    Here are two new pics, my mom have a terrible pulse, so they came out a bit unclear, but I think I can ilustrate my point.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    This one is more useful, I think.




    [​IMG]

    I have one suit that fits nice in the shoulders (not shown in the pic, that one is getting some work on the sleeves). The one that I'm talking about (not the one in the pic) is a black Zegna. I have two more Zegna's that are the same cut that the black Zegna but suprinsingly it is 3/8 larger that the other two Zegna's (Orange Line).

    So what he claims is that he can let the back out from the center (white large line) 3/8 of an inch from both sides (white little lines) in order to get the fit of the suit that fit well. He also thinks that this one (pictured above) needs less but still need the alteration.

    Thanks a lot!

    Cheers!
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    The back looks wide at the point he will let it out. Not sure why you want to do this.
     
  3. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

    Messages:
    5,161
    Likes Received:
    6,386
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2012
    Location:
    Mexico City
    Thanks! I'll try to get one pic with the one that has the main problem.

    In general the fit of this suit (pictured above) in the shoulders is good?
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    Before doing anything try this. Have the tailor pin the jacket at the center back seam at the point the center back seam meets the under collar by 1/4" or 3/8" double, along the seam. It will be pinned as if he was taking in the seam, making the neck smaller. After he pins the jacket there, move your arms forward and see if the jacket feels better. My guess is you need this adjustment more than letting out the back.
     
  5. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

    Messages:
    928
    Likes Received:
    139
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2010
    Location:
    Stockholm
    I just bought a beautiful vintage Raffaele Caruso suit, but sadly, I find that the breast pocket is much too low, about 1.5 inch lower than on my other suits. Is there a nifty way for a tailor to raise it somewhat? I don't mind if it looks a bit odd as a result. The suiting is cotton twill, and the breast pocket is a regular (welted?) one, not a patch pocket. It may also be of use to know that there will be a lot of extra suiting at the tailor's disposal after the pants have been slimmed down.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2012
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,112
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    Moving the pocket is not possible. Generally the pocket is placed where the lapel will just cover a small part of the upper corner of the breast welt.

    If it is set higher, the pocket isn't exposed enough.
     
  7. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

    Messages:
    928
    Likes Received:
    139
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2010
    Location:
    Stockholm
    

    OK, thanks. That's what I thought. Nevertheless, I'm gonna ask my tailor to see what he can do. I don't mind a few weird stitches here and there, as long at they look reasonably tidy. I'll report back!
     
  8. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

    Messages:
    5,161
    Likes Received:
    6,386
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2012
    Location:
    Mexico City
    Ok. I'm not sure if I understood well. But, isn't this going to make the back smaller and because of that the shoulders (orange line for reference)?
     
  9. uluvbs

    uluvbs Senior member

    Messages:
    197
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2007
    Hi, all.

    I have a long neck, and am thus going with a 1 7/8" collar height for my custom shirts. I had a question about collar styles that I wanted advice on, please

    I'm not so happy with the spread collar my current tailor uses (my only grievance), so I was trying to adopt something from images I saw online, like this one:

    http://propercloth.com/collar-styles/president-spread-collar

    Two questions based on that link, please:

    -1- That example sites a 1 9/16" collar height (back) with a 1 1/4" collar band in front. Can anyone guesstimate what measurement I would use for the collar band height in front if I am using 1 7/8" in the back? I assume the front collar band would need to be a bit taller/higher to achieve the same look?

    -2- This may be a silly question, but would using a slightly higher/taller collar require the use of longer points, or is that not necessary? Logically, I am thinking that if I raise the collar height, especially in the front, I would need the points to be a bit longer to compensate?

    Thank you.
     
  10. MrTransistor

    MrTransistor Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    May 5, 2012
    Hello Tailors,

    I'm finally back with a more appropriately sized 36S Benjamin suit (which arrived despite Sandy, kudos!) and would like your feedback again. I realized after taking the photos that the unhemmed pants were riding up, and thus very wrinkly; the photos without the jacket are more representative of the fit.

    Thanks for your help!


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,545
    Likes Received:
    705
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2011
    Can you give me some feedack on the pics below? How does it look? Right off the bat, I need to shorten the sleeves and fix the collar roll on the neck. Also take out the wait a little.

    But overall, does it look like a good fit, or way too small?

    Thanks!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. marburymadison

    marburymadison Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    60
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2011
    Location:
    US of A
    Second bespoke.

    Would you guys tell me what's wrong with my coat, and if it's too big? Can put my whole fist where the button is (when it's buttoned up).

    What's the reason my coat is pulling, and why there's a small collar gap (not shown in the picture)

    Do you think it's unreasonable to ask my tailor to rectify these problems?

    *Please pardon the stages of undress

    Please also don't mind the trousers (They're cut for braces and I wasn't really concerned about having them pulled up, since the focus is supposed to be on the coat).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2012
  13. Mr Engineer

    Mr Engineer Senior member

    Messages:
    1,016
    Likes Received:
    534
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2012
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    So I had the pants issue with the pockets sticking out with my flat front pants. I got it back from the my tailor where he let out the seat as much as possible. The pants feel much loser in the butt area but the pockets are still sticking out(not as much as before tho). The waist on these pants are good(34). Is there any other things my tailor could do to resolve this issue?
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2012
  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Likes Received:
    106
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    go to the tutorials, scroll down to "gaping pockets".
     
  15. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Likes Received:
    106
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    please show the collar gap, and the pulling.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by