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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    The shirt is a little tight in the chest which is why it's pulling across that button. Needs more room in the chest. That you can only change with ordering the next shirt. Release the button and allow it to spread until the wrinkles go away. The distance it spreads is what you need in the chest. The extra fabric at the back behind the shoulder blade is more related to how they cut the pattern than per your measurements. With your straighter posture, you're wider across the chest than you are across the back. That's why there's extra fabric there. Easier to live with than to fix.
    The fabric at your lower back comes from your posture. You've got a slight roll to your upper trapezius which transitions downward into anterior or forward pelvic tilt. This presents a hollow of space at your lower back. This essentially shortens your back from the middle down to your seat while the front of your body remains longer. That's why no fabric bunches at the front in the same manner. Darts strategically aimed at the most hollow point of your lower back will give you better shape there. I personally prefer to put darts right behind the side seams so they're mostly invisible from behind. I've got your posture but exaggerated so something to think about. Either way works, but one is more visible than the other.
     
  2. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    This is harder without a side profile picture but it look like your posture is presenting that hollow space in your lower back. You also have a prominent seat. This places limits on the amount you can suppress in the waist in the back of the jacket or you will get what you can see in the above photo which is the start of a fabric "shelf" at your lower back. Doesn't necessarily make the jacket too tight.
    Also, the tailor could've taken in thru the armholes to decrease the amount of fabric at the back of the armhole. As a matter of fact, he could've suppressed the jacket by manipulating the side seams in a way that suppressed the back/waist while also decreasing the width of the vents...without touching the center back seam. If you need more suppression beyond that, you can have the tailor add a dart right behind the underarm dart which falls under the arm nearly invisible but helps to suppress the front of the jacket to give you more shape.
     
  3. unclesam099

    unclesam099 Senior member

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    Nov 18, 2010
    Location:
    SE PA, USA
    

    Thank you, I thought that the shoulders were far too narrow. I appreciate your guidance and would appreciate any more that you might have for measuring for fitting a vest. Thanks for your feedback.


    I went by an illustration and it didn't come as illustrated. So, I won't order this model again.

    *I'm not a Sam :)
     
  4. BackstageOwl

    BackstageOwl New Member

    Messages:
    2
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    Jan 21, 2013
    Hello. I recently started trying to revamp my wardrobe a bit and as I was researching proper fit for coats I stumbled across this thread and think it is brilliant! It has been a big help while looking for some off-the-rack clothes. I just picked up a Calvin Klein extreme slim fit sport jacket which I really like and is quite comfortable. I already know that I will need to have the sleeves shortened some more (already shortened once but they didn't take them up nearly enough) and could probably use some waist suppression. Is there anything else that I'm not thinking of that I should look at to have altered? I would like to thank the tailors and anyone else who may pitch in in advance for your time and suggestions.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]



    Below is a quick and dirty pinning job on the sleeves and excess material in the back to get a basic idea of the direction I'm thinking I should try to go with this jacket so that it follows the contour of my body a little better and shows off the cuff of the shirt. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong.


    [​IMG]
     
  5. nautikal

    nautikal Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 24, 2010
    

    Thank you very much for the detailed feedback! So would you recommend reducing the waist measurements a bit to reduce the fabric in the back too? Or is the extra fabric mostly just from the way they cut the pattern and my posture?
     
  6. p.henrik

    p.henrik Senior member

    Messages:
    304
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    Jun 2, 2011
    Location:
    London
    Hi again,

    Another suit from Ah Loke, KL, Malaysia. Just the jacket here (forward fitting) :
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Overall happy (shoulders, where divots are a particular problems on most suits turned out well). To me the lapels appear skimpy, even though I made sure they extended half way (3.5-4inches) to the shoulder seem. Is it the lack of curvature that make them appear so? It also feels quite full in the chest, even though it fits well in arm holes and waist.

    I making him square off the neck to take away the horizontal crease between the shoulder blades, and let out the lower back just a bit. Other thoughts?

    And a baste fitting for another tweed jacket. Will pitch sleevehead forward and some other changes Ah Loke helped me identified, but overall thinks it will be nice, despite the puckering in front now visible.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    This is btw I have been debating whether to have hacking + ticket pockets on in this thread
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/326623/igent-approval-for-hacking-pockets-needed
    Still haven't decided what I'll go with.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013
  7. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Square the shoulders to shorten the back balance to kill that collar gap. Suppress the back thru the waist. Ask the tailor to do this straight thru the vents to decrease their width.
     
  8. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Your "posture" relating to how they cut the pattern mostly has to with how the neck/shoulder balance is cut. You can just add that you have a hollow lower back and ask for darts. Decreasing the total waist measurement won't necessarily cure the problem. If it's too tight, it'll pull the fabric from the front and strain the buttons. The objective is to keep quality fit in the front while developing shaped fit in the back. That's what the darts are for.
     
  9. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    I think the DB looks great. Agree with your own alteration suggestions. Also, I think you need a little less width at both blades but mostly on the left. If you're going bespoke, there's no reason to have a clean chest in the front and not have a clean back. If the armscye and shoulders are cut correctly, there not only shouldn't be much of any drape, but you also won't be that restricted in movement. Also, I personally think those vents are very wide with quite a bit of flare. You are a thin and fairly straight up and down guy so maybe that was your preference?
    On the tweed jacket, something looks off with the balance. Obviously, you have a low right shoulder that I assume they'll fix? A little more room in the chest may prevent that shoulder divot.
    Haven't read your debate on the hacking/ticket pockets. A lot to take into consideration there, but I primarily approach that issue from a perspective of proportion first. That is to say that a hacking pocket will soften a square shoulder line but a flat pocket stance will flatter a sloped shoulder line. If you're short, jetted pockets help with height but they would look funny on a tweed jacket. Also, a ticket pocket cuts the vertical line down which is good for taller folks not so good for shorter.
    If I were dressing you, I'd at least suggest patch pocket all the way around. Breast and lower pockets. Possibly with inverted pleats. Why? You're a fairly thin guy and the addition of those types of pockets will not only enhance the style of a tweed jacket but will also give you outward perceived breadth. It will flatter your thin-ness for lack of a better description.
    The question is, in what order do you dress? Style first, proportion second or proportion first, style second?
    Hope that helps.
     
  10. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    The lapel gorge angle is pretty horizontal. It's also a higher gorge line. That makes it hard to get them any wider. If the gorge were a little lower and the angle a little less horizontal, you could get wider lapels.
     
  11. Rankiz

    Rankiz Senior member

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    Nov 26, 2010
    Location:
    Norway
    

    Here are some side pictures. I am going to to the tailor soon. What should I tell him? To take in the jacket some more behind the armholes, and what more? :)

    [​IMG]
     
  12. diabolique

    diabolique New Member

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    Jan 3, 2013
    I didn't realize there was a thread specifically for fit feedback, so I created thread for checking the fit on a new suit. So I guess I should post it here instead.

    I received this suit last week in the mail. I noticed that there's bunching under the neck in the back, and the pants are a bit long. Can the bunching in the neck be resolved with some alterations? Any other issues that stand out that should be fixed? Or would I be better of returning the suit and finding something else?

    Thanks for the feedback!


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. catlettsl

    catlettsl Senior member

    Messages:
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    Oct 10, 2007
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Can anyone comment on the fit of this jacket. Does it fit well

    Thanks

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
     
  14. pmnightmare

    pmnightmare Member

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    Jan 22, 2013
    2nd fitting on sample fabric at Iris Tailor, Singapore. Thoughts? I think maybe the shoulder could be lengthened and the arms taken in a bit.

    Apologies for the poor picture quality. Just to point out, the length on the front is not uneven, it just appears so.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013
  15. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Ok it looks a little overshaped in the back. I'd let it out in the waist of the back part of the jacket only if possible. You said the jacket is still quite roomy in the front? Maybe letting out at the back part of the waist and taking in at the front part can fix that. I can't imagine it would need much.
     
  16. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    The shoulders need to be squared to shorten the back balance. That will fix the neck roll. The pants are definitely too long. If the suit came from a company that offers an alterations credit, that should cover those fixes.
     
  17. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Not too bad for off the rack. The jacket could probably benefit from lowering the collar or potentially squaring the shoulders. Everything else looks pretty good.
     
  18. NakedTie

    NakedTie Member

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    Awesome thread, I will be adding pics shortly! :)
     
  19. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    jacket fits very close, you can't go any smaller. The little bit of fullness under the collar on the back is from tension across your shoulder blades. You need a little more back width and the most effective but most difficult way to correct this is to remake the shoulders with more fullness on the back shoulder to accommodate your blades. Wouldn't lower the collar as the collar run looks right. Could diagnose more accurately with a collared dress shirt.
     
  20. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    ...looks more like tightness in the shoulders than a lower-the-collar fix to me.
     

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