The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Don't worry about the collar gap. This is a size too big for you, try another size, maybe a short if this is a regular.
     
  2. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    I have a question regarding the function of a specific seam situated at the back of the gorge on some peak-lapel jackets. The seam I'm thinking of is highlighted in red in the picture below. I'm guessing it's some sort of fastening seam, intended to keep the lapel in place, but it would be nice to know for sure.

    [​IMG]

    My question is twofold:

    1. What is the purpose of this seam?
    2. I have a jacket on which one of the seams is starting to slouch. Do you recommend I remove both seams, or is it more advisable to have a tailor tighten the loose seam up?

    Thanks in advance!
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2012
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is made with thread to keep the peak in place as you say. Not much will happen if you do nothing but your tailor can redo this. This thread tends to come loose from movement of the lapel and collar.
     
  4. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I tried one size down the first go around, but it was too tight in the chest and shoulders and resulted in bowing of the lapels (see picture below). I have a large chest and shoulders and my current workaround is to buy something that fits the chest and then have it taken in at the back center seam or elsewhere.

    As for length, this is a Long. Unfortunately, I have yet to find a Regular that is long enough or sits right with the buttoning point, so I always have to go with a Long. I try to find Longs that are on the shorter side, but that is hit or miss. This one covers my backside, but I agree it is a little long.




    [​IMG]
     
  5. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    OK, good to know. Thanks for the speedy answer!
     
  6. dufferin1

    dufferin1 Senior member

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    The pants will definetely be exhance for a 36 just to feel more comfortable. The overall jacket feels great though so if there isn't much I can do about the low left shoulder, then I may have to deal with it. Can a tailor do anything to smooth out those wrinkles somehow? (anything with the sleevehead?) I guess what I'm getting at is if there is enough material to lengthen the arms by a bit (will post a picture of the inside wrist area), does it fit well enough to keep, or should I keep looking?
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Most times you can find at least an inch of length on the sleeve, sometimes more.

    Easiest fix for a low shoulder is to add a pad to the shoulder. Recutting for a low shoulder means removing the sleeve and is much more work. It has nothing to do with the sleeve head and the only way to clean up the wrinkles is to adjust for your shoulder.

    Change the trouser and keep the suit unless you are unhappy with it. You will have the low shoulder issue on any suit you buy.
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You need a bigger chest between the lapel and armhole area, not under the arms and narrow shoulder. Keep trying different makers.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2012
  9. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the larger pics make it easier for us to see.
     
  10. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    that peak should not bend over. ready to wear peaks will do that .
    so that bit of thread is there to hold up the peak.
    on custom made coats that thread is not needed.
     
  11. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    looks like customer support is not well informed.

    Ideally, if there is cloth under neath the collar moving and shortening would do it.
    but when the tailor looks under there , it may be just a bare seam holding it.
    then taking in the center back is the only hope.
    but that will shorten the distance across from shoulder point to point.
    and the jacket iy still too short.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2012
  12. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    does take 2 mean that a remake suit was cut, or was it altered?
    also did someone measure you , or did you do it?

    yes when the rise is too long{deep} it adds to the bulk in front when sitting.
    to find out how much too long., do this.
    stand on a hard floor feet 6 " apart and look straight ahead .
    cinch up your belt in the loops to the degree you prefer.
    have someone measure from the top of the trouser to the floor .
    now loosen the belt and grasping the waist band raise the trouser
    so that the crotch is as high as is comfortable.
    now measure from the top of the waist band to the floor.
    the difference between measures is how much the trousers
    rise is too deep.
    if its more than an inch then you need a new trouser.
    to understand go to the tutorials scroll to "altering the rise".
    also tutorial"that pesky roll below the collar".
    thats needed also.
    and the jacket is about an inch too short.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2012
  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Raffaelle Caruso fresh out of the shipping box. I got it for a song.

    I have erect posture and the balance is off on this jacket. However, I'm thinking the suit can be acceptable with some minor adjustments. (Sleeves, collar, hemming, and tapering the pants legs from a 9.15 leg opening to 8.5)

    http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/...-EXPLAINED&s=7812ad14eafb2ef25bf1854e2e61cdec

    I'm putting this to a vote: keep it or sell it?



    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2012
  14. whitefisk

    whitefisk Member

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    Quick question:

    Is it possible to alter a jacket to open the quarters more? I believe this is typically a balance issue, thus the front must be lengthened - take apart the jacket at the seam across the top of the shoulder and resew the fronts a bit lower? This sounds both high-risk and expensive but i dont believe 'cutting away' the coat below the 2nd button would produce the desired effect
     
  15. kindofyoung

    kindofyoung Senior member

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    nvm, got answers in SW&D
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2012

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