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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Wyardley, you have crease grubs because there is way way too much fabric in the back if the trousers over your butt. The pants are also way too long. Both there things are true even with them hiked up so far in back.

    The shoulders are too large and the collar does not come close to fitting - look at all the space between your shirt collar and suit collar.
     


  2. wyardley

    wyardley Member

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    I'll definitely have the tailor adjust the pant length, assuming it's not possible to enlarge the leg (doesn't look like it will be). The reason the measured length was so long is mostly because I normally wear pants with a larger opening, so they sit a bit lower on my shoes and break differently. I did notice (after looking at the pictures) that they were hiked up a bit too far in the back.

    I guess my question is not so much "is the fit perfect", but "are there any problems with the fit that would necessitate a remake" (that is, too difficult or too expensive to fix easily).
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2012


  3. JackHunter

    JackHunter Member

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    Front
    Back

    Linked so I don't have to wait for the post to be approved.
     


  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    hi wardley
    yes the trouser is far too narrow at the bottom. at least 2 inches or more. remember that a wide trouser can be narrowed, but cannot be widened.
    look at your shoes. do they look larger than they really are? thats the illusion narrow trouser bottoms cause.
    your right hip is higher and wider . thats is because of the right low shoulder. check and see if the two front suspender buttons are
    directly above the top of the front creases.
    the collar gaps on both sides, but more so on the right side. thats because of the right low shoulder.
    the sleeves need to be shortened enough to show about 1/2" of shirt cuff. but only if the shirt
    cuff stops at the base of the thumb.
    the front quite closed its a matter of taste, but i prefer a bit of openness at the quarters.

    by the way. thank you for wearing the collar buttoned and a tie. it really helps a great deal.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2012


  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In addition to what atailor said. The collar and shoulders are off. Collar should sit higher and hug your neck. The fronts don't hang well. Jacket looks too short to my eye. Overall the cut doesn't flatter you. Is this a suit that you supply the measurements for or do you order the style by a description and the proportions are set by the pattern they use?
     


  6. wyardley

    wyardley Member

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    They have 3 standard cuts, so I think the proportions are set by their pattern based on your measurements. This is the "tailored" cut (in between their traditional cut and their slim cut). I was afraid that the traditional cut would be too big, even when made to my measurements, and their slim cut is a little more fashion forward than I was looking for.

    What kind of cut do you think would be most flattering? I'm 6' / 140 lb.

    Yes - that part is probably my fault - I should have read more carefully their description of their "tailored fit", because they do note somewhere on the site that it has a more tapered leg -- something that can't be helped this time around. The other suits I have are all a couple of inches bigger in diameter at the bottom leg opening, and break the way I like. Their customer support mentioned that the tailor should be able to "open up the leg", but it doesn't look to me like that's possible at all (not much extra material).

    One of the suspender adjusters is actually off a little, so that may also be part of why the right side looks a bit off (it's interesting, the low right shoulder is more obvious in the photos than in a mirror, or I would have included it in my measurements).
    I think I understand what you mean here.... It seems like it can hang a little bit more open, so not sure why it shows up that closed there.

    As far as taking in the collar a bit, does that involve the center seam in the back, the darts? Both?
     


  7. whitefisk

    whitefisk Member

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    Gents

    Take 2 of a MTM attempt.

    The main thing to fix is the trouser rise, when i sit down there is loads of excess material in my lap and the crotch doesnt need to be as low as it is.
    I also think the chest, just below the armholes, is a bit bulky, going to ask my tailor if that can be adjusted at the seams (wont adjust at the armholes, too much work!) and maybe a touch more waist suppression.

    As always thank you very much for the advice


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  8. whitefisk

    whitefisk Member

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    Oops, should have posted 'medium' pics, not 'large', im taking up the whole bloody page!
     


  9. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Shoulders are too wide and sleeves are too long. If you can, get darts in the back so that the shirt can accomodate your stomach without being so billowy in back.
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Maybe you could order a second trouser styled more to your liking with a wider bottom opening. You would have a suit with two trousers of two different styles for different uses.
     


  11. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    It's not just a question of hemming them. They'll look sloppy because there's too much cloth in back. It's not ab especially easy fix.
     


  12. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Just to close the loop on this. I discovered that the front left side of the jacket is approximately 1/2 inch smaller in width than the right front side of the jacket (measured at the top button). I'm not sure if this is the cause of the collar gap (which is one the wider side), but it definitely caused the jacket to pull to the left (non-gap) side so that even the top button of the jacket (when buttoned) was off center. Going to return because I imagine this would be a very expensive repair that would never look quite right.
     


  13. dufferin1

    dufferin1 Senior member

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    Hi everyone.

    I just received my Suit Supply suit and wanted your feedback. Yes, the pictures aren't the greatest but it was my friend/friend's room so I guess we are a bit limited. Yes the pants are too tight in the thigh and I was originally going to just return the pants however after taking a look I wanted your opinions on the jacket. This is a 40S. The 40R is about 1 inch longer and has 1 inch longer sleeves. Should I exchange for that, or just return it..

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    The issues I see is around the arm holes, and possibly the sleeves being too short, am I correct?
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2012


  14. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Arms are too short but jacket length is fine. If there is no extra material in the sleeves, you will nood to exchange.

    Clean your room first.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2012


  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Wrinkles on the left side are from your low left shoulder. Sleeves can be made longer if you have enough outlet. Trousers seem snug, especially the thigh area.

    Is this suit comfortable?
     


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