The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

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    Way too much collar gap on the right side. This seems odd . I mean if there was collar gap would've on the both side equally. Manufacturing fault maybe ?
     


  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Jacket seams a little big all over, not much, just a little. Need the roll under the collar fixed but they need to do a really good job discerning what is causing the roll. You already have some bumps in the right shoulder that need to be corrected when they fix the roll. Sleeves are too long but measure for that after they work on the shoulder. I think the jacket would be better 1/2" longer. Not sure if they cut for your high right hip. Back trouser rise is off so you get the wrinkles under your seat.
    Shirt sleeves are way too long. The left cuff is OK because you are wearing a watch but the right cuff is too loose. Yoke appears to be too wide.
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    jacket looks too big on you and a little long. The jacket may not be sitting on your shoulders correctly to judge the fit of the collar. Other causes are had to tell form these pictures.
     


  4. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I'll see if I can get better pictures when I'm in the office on Monday. As for length, this is one of the better jackets for me as I am 6"2 and in between a R (sleeves aren't long enough and buttoning point looks off) and a L (jackets are always on the long side on me). Add in my erect posture and large chest from lifting weights and I am frequently [​IMG] . I generally have to buy something large enough to fit my chest and shoulders and then have it taken in on the back seam. This jacket seems to fit better than most at the pre-alterations stage, but I'm concerned the collar gap may not be fixable or a symptom of a bigger fit problem. I'll post better pictures on Monday.
     


  5. pack66

    pack66 Active Member

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    Thanks Despos. It's an Indochino...should I send it back for a remake or is this something I can have done by a local tailor? I noticed one more thing. I asked for high armholes and I don't think they gave them to me. Although they are higher than my other suits.
     


  6. OldManMachine

    OldManMachine Well-Known Member

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    I just received my Benjamin Sartorial Classico in 38S. I would appreciate any help I can get regarding the fit. Hoping to get some help from the more experienced members here if I have the green light to bring this to a tailor to get altered (assuming that this is a suit worth keeping). The shirt that I'm wearing is a Brooks Brothers Non-Iron Slim Fit with a standard classic collar point (14-1/2; 32)

    1)My main concern is the exposure of the shirt collar. Does it seem normal or would it be too much as the suit jacket sits a bit low. I do notice a slight collar gap, is this fixable?
    2) I'm not very experienced as this is my 2nd suit, but would the distance between the lapel and point of the shirt collar be an issue or sign of improper fitment?

    I know the pants will require hemming as well as shortening of the jacket sleeves. What recommendations would you suggest I pass along to my tailor to get done?

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    Last edited: Sep 28, 2012


  7. Nguyenning

    Nguyenning Active Member

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    Assuming I need a full on shoulder reoconstructing for this MTM suit? Good thing is my guy is covering all alteration costs... not sure if it's poor measurements or maybe just that I have very uneven shoulders...

    Any advice would be much appreciated, but pretty sure I'm headed toward reconstructing the shoulder. I actually like the way the rest of the suit fits in terms of length, tapered to the body, etc (I've since shortened the pants a little so the break isn't as bad as the pictures below)... but I'll take any advice from the experts




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    Last edited: Sep 29, 2012


  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The last close up pictures are the only helpful pictures and reveal more issues. There is some twist in the shoulder. Besides narrowing the shoulder width, it looks like you may have to square the shoulder and put more fullness over the shoulder blades.You want to find a very good tailor that can refit and fit and remake the shoulder and then fit and recut the sleeves. You need workmanship that is at a higher level than the suit is made to correct this.

    Are these the same pictures you first posted or are these after they worked on the suit?
     


  9. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is a tough one. There is a roll under the collar which most tailors would square the back shoulder and lower the collar to correct and that would make the relation of jacket to shirt collar worse. From the back view it shows the jacket hanging up on your shoulder blades, creating a hollow between the blades and contributing to the roll of cloth under the collar. I would square the front shoulder, distribute more fullness over the back part and leave the collar where it is. Maybe take in the center back seam 1/4". Squaring the front shoulder will help raise the collar in the back. All may be too technical but if you are in an area and can find a tailor experienced in making jackets, he can help you. The back is too big under the arms and could be taken in a bit thru the waist

    The trouser waist seems too loose, have it taken in.

    Would suggest trying other brands to see if these issues only show up with this maker. If you can avoid alterations like this, it's much better.
     


  10. OldManMachine

    OldManMachine Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the advice and recommendations Despos, your help is greatly appreciated. I think I will follow through on your suggestion of trying other brands to see if the issue still exist. Because I'm inexperienced, I'm afraid to request the type of technical alterations that you have mentioned above.

    I plan to use the measurements from this existing suit as a point of reference when searching for my next suit. A couple of questions if you don't mind answering:
    1) Do you think I made the correction sizing selection of a 38S? or should I have gone down to a 36S?
    2) Do the shoulders fit? The length of the shoulder from the sizing sheet is 17.6"
    3) Did you see any issues regarding the collar gap and exposed shirt collar? Would a smaller size fixed this issue?

    Thank you again!
     


  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A 38 will fit differently from other makers, some will be looser and others may be more fitted. It's by design of the maker. Trying them on is the best way to know what you like and works best for you. You may be a 38 in one brand, 40 in another and 36 somewhere else.

    Shoulders are close enough to compare using this measurement.

    The collar is a recurring issue with this brand. Until you try others, it's unknown if other jackets will fit you the same way.
     


  12. Nguyenning

    Nguyenning Active Member

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    The last 2 pics are the ones after one tailor tried just trimming the shoulders (it obviously did nothing...)
    So, we're taking it to an Italian tailor to reconstruct the shoulder on Monday. Here's a few more pics of how the suit looks currently as well (sorry, no idea why some are rotated). I don't really mind anything but the left shoulder to be honest. I mean is this a me issue? Meaning, do I just have really uneven shoulders? Or do you think this was a measurement issue? (the guy took all my measurements) It looks like the left shoulder is easily an inch too long.


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  13. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    Edit: Please see next page for new fit pics with a better-fitting shirt.


    This is my latest MTM creation from Tony Paranzino. I can see now that my shirt sleeves are too long and are going to make it difficult to judge jacket sleeve length. Setting that aside, what tweaks would you gentlemen recommend for my next MTM jacket from Tony -- or for this jacket, for that matter?

    Does anyone think that the jacket's collar should stand up a little taller against the back of my neck?

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    That's a breeze blowing the left vent open.

    Holland & Sherry
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    Last edited: Sep 30, 2012


  14. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I think is one of the best-fitting coats you've shown us! I look forward to seeing how you work it into your daily rotation.

    The sleeve length looks spot-on to me. Move the button on that barrel cuff, and you're cookin' with gas.
     


  15. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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    I agree, sb. I think Tony's got me pretty well dialed in now.



    I'm not following you here. Please elaborate.
     


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