1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Chase H

    Chase H Senior member

    Messages:
    326
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2012
    The 'points' look way too pronounced, and way too long.
     
  2. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    The proportions are entirely off. It's just too long in the front. Because of the long length measurement, it was made with narrower (closer together) points (which was either wrong on your tailor's end or the factory end...but it was measured or cut too long), The length should obviously be shorter with the points spread a bit further apart to be proportionate to your build. Look at the bottom button...It shouldn't be buttoned for style reasons but it doesn't look like it actually can be functionally buttoned without throwing drags all over the place. Poor tailoring.
    If the waistcoat were shorter...especially in the foreparts from the outter edge of the shoulder line...and a little more room given in the chest area...the gaping away from the body at the lower part and the tightness at the chest would go away. The waistcoat should flatter not expose. Regardless of all of this, the fact that the bottom button isn't actually functional is a major sign of poor tailoring. The only solution, imho, is a total remake.
    Fitting issues happen to the best m2m programs but poor tailoring resulting in stuff like that? That's a sign to avoid that factory...
    I'm an alterations tailor with m2m in house and I've seen my share of unfortunate mistakes that I've had to fix and eat...but nothing like that.
     
  3. dustinmyself

    dustinmyself Senior member

    Messages:
    230
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2012
    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]



    two tuxedos that I've come across.
    would like feedback on the fit.
    my apologizes for the lack of photos, didn't have a lot of time.
     
  4. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Definitely need more and better pics. Pics of a black suit need more lighting. Need side and back shot too.
     
  5. Chase H

    Chase H Senior member

    Messages:
    326
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2012
    Sleeves are in danger of being too short but are probably still acceptable.
     
  6. dustinmyself

    dustinmyself Senior member

    Messages:
    230
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2012
    they're going to be lengthened when I take them to the tailor to have satin covered buttons put on...
     
  7. dustinmyself

    dustinmyself Senior member

    Messages:
    230
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2012
  8. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    I'm an alterations tailor located in PA, US. It's my primary business and how I make my living. I've never really posted much here in the forum so my comments to your photos are being reviewed. I'll also issue a little disclaimer that the more experienced tailors in the forum may have a more accurate description of what fixes you may need and if you doubt anything I recommend, do indeed wait for their input. They simply have a lot more experience than I do.
     
  9. AriGold

    AriGold Senior member

    Messages:
    1,259
    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2009
    Bought this RLBL suit on sale for 800 down from 1950. Navy Peak Lapel Pinstripe. Quality is amazing as you all know. Will be hemming the trousers, and lengthening the sleeves - might take in some in the waist. Opinions on the fit?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. iLLmAtiCiAn

    iLLmAtiCiAn Senior member

    Messages:
    159
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2008
    So I am in the market for dress shirts for starting a job next year.
    I have singled it down to either the Brooks Brothers ESF Non-Iron or the H&M Premium Cotton Easy Iron or to just buy shirts from both

    I am wearing the Brooks Brothers in a 14.5/32 and the H&M in a Size S. The first shots are BB and the second two are H&M

    Can you comment on the fit of both? I Know the H&M one will need the sleeves taken in but do you think the BB one does? And also the shoulder seam on the BB one seems to be a bit higher. Is it too high or is it acceptable as well? Also, is the BB pocket in a bad place and is there a way to remove it without showing? Thanks!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Those shirts don't look too bad for RTW. The BB looks a little snug around the hips but you can't fix that.The pocket can easily be removed...or moved...by a decent tailor. Regarding the fit of the sleeves, they are a little billowy but you don't want them too tight. The length of the sleeves is good too. I would caution against the non-iron shirt as it's probably chemically treated or made from polyester or something. These shirts just don't do as well on your body as a pure cotton shirt. If you're gonna buy a shirt from BB you might as well buy a cotton shirt. Your preference, though.
     
  12. iLLmAtiCiAn

    iLLmAtiCiAn Senior member

    Messages:
    159
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2008
    Thank you for the comments!

    I would prefer an untreated shirt as well but I will be doing a lot of traveling and client work for my job so I need a couple of non-iron white and light blue shirts for the plane rides and to stay wrinkle free in the suitcase.
     
  13. TheSizzle

    TheSizzle Senior member

    Messages:
    647
    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2012
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Are your shoulders that different in heights, or are you leaning? You might need to adjust the sleeves to compensate for that, but I'm no expert. I could also be thrown partially by the different amounts of visible cuff.
     
  14. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    The jacket length is too short. You may like it because it's fashionable, but because it's a RTW jacket, the length of the sleeves corresponds to the length of the jacket. It looks like you need almost 1.25" released from the sleeve. You may run into a problem with not having enough fabric up inside the sleeve to make this happen. You won't know until a tailor opens it. Your shirt sleeve lengths are also too short for your arm length. It's a nice suit, indeed. Reminds me of this time I was in a thrift shop and there were 2 beautiful Paul Stuart suits there. They fit perfectly everywhere...except the sleeves were as short as these with working cuffs. Despite the incredibly cheap price on them, the beautiful fabric, the fancy details right down to side tabs on the trousers, I gave up on the purchase because I could never get those sleeves to fit right (barring insanely stupid amounts of odd work)
    There's a lesson in there...
     
  15. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    This gentleman has a natural low right shoulder. The difference in sleeve length is more obvious to the average eye than the shoulder is. The right side looks longer because the sleeve is just following the drop in his shoulder. The easy fix is padding out the right shoulder slightly to create left to right balance then dropping the sleeves evenly. This is pretty common.
    The harder fix is detaching the right sleeve, in particular, and recutting the shoulder probably right up into the collar as the drop in his shoulder is not just at the tip but all the way into his upper trap muscles (or so it appears). Better have a competent tailor to perform that task no matter what the value of the suit is, but especially if it's RLBL.
     
  16. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

    Messages:
    1,920
    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2011
    Gentlemen, I need your help.

    I made the mistake of ordering MTM shirts that were too slim for myself and I was not able to breath.
    I changed a lot of measurements and unknowingly ended up with Mr. Kabbaz's recommendations for a super slim shirt.
    +4 chest, +3 waist, +3 hem from one's body measurements.

    Unluckily I still suffer from one problem in all of my shirts.
    Upon moving both arms at the same time or if I reach to pick something up the ground, the fabric in the back is fully outstretched and I am restricted in my movement because the sleeves cut into the flesh of my upper arm/shoulder.
    I addressed this to my tailor and wanted to increase the chest by 1-2 inches, he said he wouldn't increase the chest but add an inch to the yoke width.
    I am not sold, because I feel the most tention around the area of my back that meets the armhole rather than on the very top of the back where the yoke sits.
    Thus I still think it has something to do with the chest measurement, the balance of the fabric around my chest, the height of the armhole and/or the sleeve width rather than the yoke.

    Maybe you can teach me what to do judging from my pictures.
    Please excuse the lousy quality of pictures and the shirt being without cuff buttons.
    It's the oldest shirt of mine and has lost all of them after years of wear.
    Collar, shoulders, yoke and chest measurement are identical to the most recent shirts.

    The first two pictures show the outstrechted fabric.
    In the third picture you can see how high I can pull up my arms before I run out of fabric.
    The fourth picture shows the wrinkels on the upper arm/shoulder caused by this problem.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2013
  17. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,345
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2012
    Hi, all. Thanks in advance for any feedback you can give.

    I have a sort of odd situation with this jacket -- the shoulders and chest feel a touch wider than most jackets in my size (this coat was bought in a thrift store, and there's no size tag), but the silhouette seems to work well. I don't know enough about fit to be sure if this is me being fooled by "almost," or if it's a complicated issue. I'm afraid I may have, without thinking, puffed my chest out a bit for these pics. My shoulders don't look that uneven in real life. I haven't helped things by using a slightly wide lens, doing a poor job of leveling the camera, and shooting from below chest height.

    Nevertheless, any help is appreciated.

    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    PS: One of the captchas I got uploading these was "do more sit-ups" ... It's like they can tell I'm a 36R.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2013
  18. acecow

    acecow Senior member

    Messages:
    4,135
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2009
    Location:
    Not Manhattan, unfortunately
    I bought a raincoat online. It fits me well in the shoulders and chest, I think. However, the waist is humongous. Now, I've never really owned a coat before, because I live in Los Angeles, so I'm not aware of how they are supposed to fit. Nevertheless, I think my coat must be tighter than it is right now. Is it possible to alter the waist of a raincoat presented below? What are your thoughts on the fit of it in general? Thank you!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  19. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
     
  20. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

    Messages:
    530
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Location:
    Lehigh Valley, PA
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by