Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.
Hi all! What do you think about this blazer? Is the shoulder somewhat odd looking?
Any help with the below? Thanks! The more I look at the pics, I actually think the ideal shoulder measurement for me might be somewhere in between the trial suit jacket and the RLPL jacket.
The sample jacket looks too skimpy everywhere, especially compared with the RL jacket. Balance and overall fit is better with the RL with the exception of the collar. The sample jacket hugs your neck better and fits higher in the back which is better. That is the only area where the sample jacket fit is better. Sample jacket has a short front balance and the length is too short.
It is tricky to measure from jackets cut on different patterns and try to meld the two. What are the shoulder width and point to point measurements of both?
Not the best photo to form an opinion from but the shoulder looks fine unless you want a softer, non padded shoulder.
What really matters is how it looks on you and what you prefer but you said this isn't you in the photo.
Thanks for the feedback! So it is just a matter of taste and not a matter of the form not being right? Appreciate your input.
Thanks Despos - I tried my best to compare the measurements on the 2 jackets and request changes on the trial jacket so that it will measure closer to the size of the RLPL. I'm still working out the kinks and I haven't submitted a final request yet. The shoulder measurement on the trial jacket is 46.5cm and the RLPL is 48cm. I'm thinking maybe 47.5cm would be close to perfect.
I agree the trial jacket is too small all around, and I also noticed that the front balance is short. I estimated that I need to add about 1.5cm to the length in the back and nearly 4cm to the length in the front (as well as lowering the button stance by about 2cm).
Decide how much bigger you want the shoulder from the sample jacket, not how much smaller to make them from the RL sizing. Work your measurements from the sample jacket not the RL. If you go up a size in the chest the shoulder may be alright. Do they provide the specs for sizing?
thanks again for the expert advice...I'll just make the adjustments based on this jacket instead of comparing it to a different jacket. There are sizing specs for each trial size - I think if I size up the shoulder may end up being too big, which I definitely want to avoid. Looking at the pics of the trial jacket from the front, the shoulder doesn't look all that small, and I think the tightness from the back shot may be due to the size of the chest and armhole, which is a little too snug. Is that probably what is causing the bunching around the armpit on the back shot?
The shoulder doesn't look wide as it relates to the narrow chest. When the chest gets fuller you want the same proportion. Just check the specs and see what the difference might be. Combination of shoulder slope, low right shoulder and snug fit contribute to the pulling under the arms on the back.
This is a friend's first suit. He bought it though Indochino and is looking to get a remake. Keep in mind he is football player, so he has a huge upper body with a narrow waist. So far, he plans to have 1.5 inches added to the waist, 1 inch added to the chest, half an inch added to each sleeve, and an inch added to the pants on the thigh. He is also going to ask them to fix the shoulder divots, if possible.
Any suggestions are very much appreciated.
Here is a new Benjamin. I am wondering if this jacket is too small or if I am just not used to wearing a suit that is this slim. I am 5' 10" and 185 lbs. This is a 52R.
My two main concerns are 1) the shoulders (divots?) and 2) the back (does my butt make the vent push out too much?)
This suit looks really good IMO; as good as a made to measure suit before its had a fitting; ok the side seams could be let out a fraction, about 1/4'' each side, but if you lost a kilo you wouldn't even need to do it and you would save £30. The sleeve divots are acceptable; it is barely noticable (a lot of made to measure suits have come out a lot worse than what I see in the picture) but if your going to be picky you could repitch the sleeve back a little but this takes a really good tailor to do well, and could cost quite a bit (at least £70 in London for a good tailor to do it). The sleeves are a fraction long, I would shorten 3/8''. Generally its really good for non designer off-the-peg suit, I think you've done well considering its around $600
I actually made a thread asking for critiques on my suit, but one thing I know for a fact is my left shoulder on this suit jacket. Everything else fits me very nicely, so I'm wondering how difficult of a tailoring job would fixing this shoulder be? You see it protrudes out a little bit and there's quite an indention... I must have uneven shoulders :/
Front and back views below... left shoulder noticeably has some kind of issue goin on. I'm pretty newbish, so any insight would be much appreciated. My suit guy will cover any tailor costs, so I'd like to be as precise as possible when I take it in. Thanks!
THought I might as well jump in here too. Most of my SC fit in like the one shown below. I've lurked long enough that I think I know what's wrong and to know that it would cost more than the jacket to fix. But I'm definitely looking for the expert feedback here. I think posture is causing some of the issues.
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