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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    so now you know what fun we have trying to critique from pictures. if there are enough pictures we try average it out. if two pics show a right low shoulder and one shows a left. then..... you point out all that we have gotten use to. whats the worst? well...... how about the solid black splotch, so we cant see a darn thing. or the guy with arms tight at the sides so we cant see the jackets waist shape. or the one posing like a model in GQ. or the guy waving his arms trying to fly. best of all is the one doing the chicken dance.
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    please dont lower the collar.
     
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  3. mymil

    mymil Senior member

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    ^ Can I ask why not? This would just be in back, to remove that slight roll just under the collar. Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2012
  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    that can be done by using the seam that runs from the armhole down to the pocket.
    its located underneath the sleeve.
    it may or may not not be enough to do what you want.
    but you do not want the front dart or the side seam to be used.
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2012
  5. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    a tailor: thanks! interesting to know how you try to adjust for it. I thought of photoshopping up a 'flying' picture for you, just for fun :)
     
  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    since the jacket has not been cut yet,why not do it correctly.
    go to the tutorials and scroll down to "that pesky roll below the collar".
    that alteration only takes the cutter less 30 seconds to do on the cutting table.
    he is going to be doing changes that you are proposing anyway .

    forcing the collar down in order to pull the back up is not tailoring.
    and it may cause other distortions.
     
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  7. mymil

    mymil Senior member

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    Done and done—thank you for continuing to be such a fantastic resource! I've seen many of the tutorial threads, but had somehow missed that one.
     
  8. JapanAlex01

    JapanAlex01 Senior member

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    Hi, I recently bought this coat in a 36"; the sleeves are a bit short--they could be lengthened 1/2 an inch. What is the process, of lengthening sleeves? Can you miraculously lengthen them with no excess material? Or, is there usually excess in the seem of most jackets? The jacket fits perfectly everywhere else; I just have unusually long arms (35" shirt sleeve).

    If a fit pit is needed, I'll post one on request. Thanks!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2012
  9. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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    :nodding:
     
  10. JapanAlex01

    JapanAlex01 Senior member

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    LOL. I just think half an inch would serve greatly. (It's pulling a bit, but I'm wearing a jumper.)

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    Last edited: Dec 15, 2012
  11. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You've asked a question which is unanswerable by any of us. Feel at the cuff to see if there's extra material. If there is, and it's sufficient for your needs, take it to the tailor. If not, don't keep the coat.
     
  12. Thirdrail

    Thirdrail New Member

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    Thanks so much for the feedback a tailor. You're totally right about my shoulder and it seems so obvious now that you've pointed it out. If I slump my right shoulder to compensate the collars stack nicely. I had my roommate take a couple more pictures.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    The collar gapping is much more obvious now. They will remake it if the necessary alterations can't be done by a local tailor. What would you suggest about the pulling effect at the button? I followed the tutorials and my left shoulder is 1/4" lower, and my left hip is 1/2" higher.


    Also what needs to change about the pants? It seems like the crotch just isn't low enough. Thanks so much!
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2012
  13. pogiguy

    pogiguy Member

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    Hi Tailors,

    Just got a new suit. Please can you comment on the fit, particularly on the shoulders, chest, and backside jacket. I would like to accurately describe to my alterations tailor what needs to be done to make it better.

    Thank you.

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    Last edited: Dec 16, 2012
  14. dongale

    dongale Active Member

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    Brethren,
    This thread seemed like the right place for this question. I just bought a Woolrich Yankton jacket (essentially a Harrington copy). I really like it, but the sleeves are a little long and a little baggier than I expected. Could the sleeves be tapered and taken up, or does the cuff and sleeve lining make it impossible?

    Picture of jacket here: http://www.famousbrandsoutlet.com/img/product_large/7398_303.jpg
     
  15. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

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    Greetings to tailors and would like to know what they think about the fit of that suit ?? Many thanks

    [​IMG]





    [​IMG]

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  16. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the distance between the bottom of the sleeve and the stitching
    that jouns the lining to the coat fabric is the length you will gain.
    the tailor will find some fabric a close match to the coat.
    he will add that to the inside of the sleeve and make ith high
    enough to meet the lining.
     
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  17. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Thanks a tailor.

    I have another quick question, what's the minimum acceptable distance from the hem of a jacket to the side pockets? (without flaps). My father just gave me an old sport coat from the eighties that is going to need extensive alterations (though it's my size, the 80's cut makes it look huge) and it's a bit long. The distance from the hem to the pockets is 10" and I'm wondering if 9" is acceptable. If not I may not even bother taking it to the tailor...

    Also wondering if it's possible to turn a true 3 button coat into a 3-roll-2 if it's fused, because this thing would look much better that way...
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2012
  18. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    TER1413
    you should really do something about your hair. have you tried a conditioner?
    it would soften your countenance, much like the sweet face.we know as SUGAR BUTCH.
     
  19. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    WITH FEATHERS?
     
  20. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes the sleeves can be shortened.do not narrow the sleeves.
    when sleeves are too long it makes them seem too big.
    you can always narrow them later.
     

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