The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Chest is too small and the blade area in back is too big. Too much cloth in the back, not enough in front. Button is too high. Would 1/2 to 3/4" to the jacket length.

    Trousers can be cut to compensate for bow legs. Trouser also needs to be shortened at the top of the back rise to lift the trouser
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012


  2. rs232

    rs232 Senior member

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    Awesome, I'll try to implement what I can. Looking at everyone else's RTW/MTM side shots, I can see what you're talking about with the displacement of the shoulder seam. Thanks guys, you're great!

    PS this will probably be my last coat for a little while. I was admitted to business school last week, and have about 3 months to move cities and then move overseas (after which life will be extremely busy).
     


  3. InterviewSuit

    InterviewSuit New Member

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    Hello Everyone,

    I'm new here so please let me know if I have posted this incorrectly. I am beginning to interview for jobs in the finance arena within the next few weeks. I have a very hard time finding a decent fitting suit being 6'1 with long legs and a shorter upper body. It also doesn't help that my budget for a suit is currently at a bare minimum. During a labor day sale I was able to purchase a slim fit navy suit at a department store for <$200. It is by far fits the best of any off the rack suit I have ever tried on (which isn't saying much). I went ahead and bought both the 38reg and 38long jacket and will be returning one of them. I am looking for any advice some of your experts out there could provide. I like the feel of the 38 Reg but want to make sure it is not too short. The 38L seems to not only be longer but to also have more fabric in the chest and generally feels more baggy. I am able to spend around $70 for needed alterations. Thanks!

    This is the 38Reg:

    [​IMG]

    Here is the 38Long:

    [​IMG]

    I know at least on my computer it is hard to see with such a dark color so I also am including pictures of the jackets with light gray slacks for the purpose of being able to better see the lengths. It should be noted that the gray slacks have a lower rise and fit much better than the suit slacks (unfortunately I have to take anything that doesn't hang like a bag suit wise).

    38 Reg

    [​IMG]

    38 Long

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    Here are the slacks:
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    I have no fashion sense and basically have no idea what I'm doing. Which jacket should I go with and what alterations would you recommend to both the jacket and pants? Help me not look like an idiot in my interviews. Thanks again.
     


  4. InterviewSuit

    InterviewSuit New Member

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    Hello Everyone,

    I am new here so please let me know if I have posted this incorrectly or in the wrong thread. I am beginning to interview for positions in the finance industry within the next few weeks. In general I have a hard time finding professional attire being 6'1", skinny, and having a shorter upper torso. It also doesn't help that my suit budget is almost non existent. During a Labor Day sale I was able to pickup a slim fit suit from a department store for less than $200. It is by far the best fit from an off the rack suit I have ever had (which isn't saying much). I would appreciate any comments or suggestions some of you expert tailors out there could provide. Thanks!

    This is the 38 Reg:

    [​IMG]

    This is the 38 Long:

    [​IMG]

    Here are the slacks:

    [​IMG]


    Again, I basically have no idea what I am doing and would appreciate any advice you could provide. Which jacket fits best, should I have the pants altered (seat, crotch, or tapering), and are any alterations needed for the jacket? Please help me not look like an idiot in my interviews. I can spend around $75 or a little more on alterations. Thanks again!
     


  5. vovve

    vovve New Member

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    Thanks a lot for quick and valuable feedback! Do you think lowering buttons by 3/4" and adding 1" to chest sound about right? Would it be possible/reasonable to alter the trousers? Thanks again!
     


  6. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    A Prada blazer from Spoo. Sleeves clearly too long and bumpy shoulders could be pressed smooth, I think. Otherwise? I look to you humbly, o masters of cloth, for guidance.

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  7. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

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    OK, here are some better pics of the suit jacket I posted yesterday. You can ignore the trousers...just looking for comments on the jacket fit. The first 4 pics are of the suit jacket, and the next set of 4 pics are of a RLPL jacket that fits very well IMO (except the left sleeve length for some reason, I don't know what's going on with that in this pic). What sort of changes to I need to specify in order for the MTM jacket (using this suit jacket as a template) to fit like the RLPL jacket? Thanks again!

    Trial Suit Jacket:

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    RLPL Jacket:

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    Last edited: Sep 12, 2012


  8. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    hi and welcome interviewsuit the pictures do not show any detail.
    the 38 reg looks best. the coat length is a smidge long but since so much
    of your height is from the legs its close enough.
    look at the coat back a bit below the collar there is a hump.
    you carry your head erect. so the back needs to be shortened at the top.
    sleeves look good . cant tell anything about the body shaping.
    have the trouser length adjusted and your good to go.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2012


  9. Bugsy

    Bugsy Well-Known Member

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    hi. i am required after many years to wear a jacket again for work. while i have been dressing more casually, fits have definitely gotten closer, shorter, etc..
    i flipped thru the thread but still am not clear on - overarm vs armhole alterations.

    so....

    for my own edification, my question for the group is how when trying on a jacket that feels too tight in the sleevehead, upper arm area, how do i distinguish between a armhole that is too narrow for me vs not having enough overarm?

    the reason i ask, is in have been told there are solutions to a narrow armhole but, not much that can be done for overarm.

    thanks in advance....
     


  10. Alex Takashi

    Alex Takashi Member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG]

    Dear All,

    This thread is started to solicit tailoring advice.
    Indochino had received my remake application and is holding it up till I give further instructions.

    This will be my message to Indochino for my remake.

    1. Take in 1" both sides at the Shoulder.
    2. Lower button stance by an inch.
    3. Higher armholes. If can "raise them 1.5 inches".
    4. Remake in double back vents.
    5. Sleeve pitch problem.
    6. Extend sleeves by 1".
    7. Extend pants length by 0.5".

    My questions:

    - How do I remake the back of the pants wrinkling problem? Increase thigh measurement by 1"? Knee by 0.5"?
    - What to do about the Sleeve pitch? Forward? backward? I really have no idea how to solve it.
    - Any other problems you guys might see that I could change for a better fit?
    - How to solve the back X, wrinkling problem?

    I find the travelling 'stylist' not very helpful, he suggested center vent and I was skeptical and he keep saying it's the trendy American cut.

    Your advice will be very much appreciated.

    Alex C.
     


  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The jacket chest is small in the upper chest. If you increase the chest measure the pattern is bigger all around, front and back. You need more cloth between the edge of the armhole and the lapel and you need the back reduced at the back blade and side. Can you send them a picture with your explanation?
     


  12. vovve

    vovve New Member

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    Yes, I can. Should reduction of back be equal to increase of front? 1" enough? Would you leave width of waist and bottom of jacket as is? Thanks again!
     


  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There is no connection with the front chest and reducing the back. Separate amounts. Is there a tailor or fitter involved in this? Making the chest bigger is tricky because you have to move the neck point larger and it will change the way the fronts hang. You will need extra length at the front top shoulder too. With this issue, self diagnosis may not get favorable results due to technical variations.
     


  14. Theo Moore

    Theo Moore Member

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    Is the button stance on this suit too high? I prefer it about 0.75"-1" lower (comparable to the button stance of JCrew Ludlow suits). Can I get some comments on the fit and in particular, the button position?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2012


  15. Solarhaphaeriom

    Solarhaphaeriom Member

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    Hi there!
    I just have one question regarding my new suit, as I'm happy with the fit overall. I had the suit made by a (reputable) tailor in Singapore, with three muslin fittings while I was there. The suit was then completed without fittings in the final cloth and sent to me. I decided to try a single vent (for the first time), which may have been a poor choice (note that these aren't the suit pants, so no need to critique their fit. I will try to get better pictures tonight.):

    [​IMG]

    Obviously the vent flares open significantly when the jacket is buttoned, which looks pretty awful (to me at least). When the jacket is open it's not so noticeable, but I suspect that it'll still happen when I move my arms (plus I'd like to be able to close my jacket...). Since I'm now in a different country I sadly don't have the option of going back to have this fixed.
    I'm not very knowledgeable in terms of tailoring, but to me it seems that the strong waist suppression coupled with a long vent creates a pull at the end of the vent. So my question is what options I have at this point?. Based on some research I'm considering the following:

    1. Having the vent closed by a local tailor. I wouldn't particularly mind the jacket being ventless, as long as the fit was good. But I'm worried that the current problem would still manifest as a 'strained' ventless look.
    2. Making the vent closure a bit lower. If the closure was moved away from the waist suppression it might pull differently?
    3. Creating more room somehow. I imagine that this would be a major operation though, and require more cloth. Probably expensive to have someone else do it, and for the original tailor there would be shipping plus no option of me wearing it for fitting.
    4. There is a small crease on the left side of the vent (from shipping). To what extent might this be accentuating the problem? Though I think it's wishful thinking that fixing this would make the flaring stop.

    Additionally, what would be proper etiquette regarding the original tailor? If I incur additional expenses fixing what I would consider a glaring flaw, would it be reasonable to request a reduction in the price of the suit? If additional fabric is required, would it be reasonable to request this? Or would it be considered my own problem, with no further obligation on their part? She seems to be ignoring my emails, but I can always call her up.

    Thank you in advance.
     


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