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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. lonestarteacher

    lonestarteacher Well-Known Member

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    I'm not a fan of the tie and the back of the jacket looks like it could use a little sculpting in order to look like it accentuates you instead of hiding you.
     
  2. Nicola

    Nicola Well-Known Member

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    Usually having sloped shoulders has been considered a defect not an ideal to shoot for.

    Saying you want to look like a nice slope shoulder is one step from asking the tailor to give you a hunchback.
     
  3. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Are you guys thinking that wedge shaped padding placed with the thickest part of the wedge at the neck tapering down to nothing would make the shoulder look sloped or are you saying something else?

    Where did this discussion begin?
     
  4. thefunk89

    thefunk89 New Member

    Messages:
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    Quote:
    It's an old jacket I've had for years but never wore. The brand is emanuel ungaro.


    In terms of sculpting, what should I ask a tailor to do? And doesn't it need to be slimmed down?

    Also, does the jacket look awkward paired with the pants or does it look fine?
     
  5. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    You would have to spend more on tailoring than this garment is worth to achieve that.


    It's not just a matter of pressing- the collar is far too long to get the lapel to break between the buttons- it is already breaking a good inch above the top button so you would have to take the collar off and shorten the spring in the lapel by 3/8" to get what you want. Please don't attempt this.

    This is a good place to repeat that alterations should be an attempt to take a garment which is close to fitting well or being what you want and then adding a little icing. Trying to transform a garment into something it is not is usually a recipe for disaster.
     
  6. thefunk89

    thefunk89 New Member

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    Originally Posted by jefferyd [​IMG]


    You would have to spend more on tailoring than this garment is worth to achieve that.

    I understand. Would it be worth tailoring if I scratch the slim look that I was going for and just want a normal fitting jacket?
    If not, I can just get rid of it.
    What should I do when I purchase a new jacket to replace this? Buy a smaller size? I'm not entirely sure what is wrong with this one and the length seems fine.


    Thank you for the clarification, and I won't attempt this.
     
  7. TheTukker

    TheTukker Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Chris - here's the discussion:


    +1; this is what I was thinking. :eh:
     
  8. Seph

    Seph Well-Known Member

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    New York, NY
    
    I think this looks great as it is! Sure, there is some padding in the shoulders, but nothing too extreme. I wouldn't bring the waist in anymore either - already nice and slim.
     
  9. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    I received this SC from a gent in the UK. It is a Caruso Sartoria Parma, and the fabric/pattern is amazing. Obviously it needs some work to fit me. Is it possible to make it work?

    The shirt is a Borrelli, and it has a spread collar.

    Also, the pants are way too tight on me, I will be giving them away soon. I only wore them so the outline of the coat would be clearer.

    Thank you for the help!

    Edit: After many tries, it seems that I cannot edit out my face via photobucket. Even though my photobucket picture is saved cropped. (as is the one with the sink, the sink is not in my photobucket album) So I guess I'll leave it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2011
  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    I think this may be a Photobucket cookies/caching issue. I've seen the same behavior, but I don't think that other people can see the unedited image. Eventually, I see the edited image in the thread. You could check by viewing the thread from a different computer/phone.
     
  11. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    Esteemed tailors, can you expound on the cause of this phenomenon of the fronts of the coat "hovering" away from the front of the body? I have a couple of coats which generally fit elsewhere, but do this same thing which is only apparent in the side view.
     
  12. Jobst

    Jobst Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    My main issue with the way this fits, is the quarters of the jacket being so far spread in the front shot. I notice this goes away if I draw my shoulders back a little, but this isn't really my usual posture. Can this be tweaked by a tailor?

    There's also the rumpling in the back thigh of the trousers that I think could do with a little clean-up.

    The shirt could also use some work, but for the life of me I can't figure out what. Untucked, it's borderline over my stomach, any more reduction would make it constrictive. But when tucked, after the first time I sit enough fabric comes out to cause the folds you see in the first three shots.

    Any other things that I've missed please advise! And thanks to the tailors taking their time to look over this thread, it's a great idea and has helped me a lot already in what to look for in terms of fit issues.
     
  13. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Well-Known Member

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    Those quarters are not really that open, they are probably just meant to be like that. The high buttoning point is the bigger problem, which exaggerates the open quarters by causing more shirt to be shown. Neither of these things can really be fixed anyway; you can potentially close the quarters a bit by shortening the front-balance, which achieves a similar thing to pulling your shoulders back, but if the front-balance is not the cause of the problem, and the quarters are just cut to be this open, then shortening it will mess up the balance of the coat.
     
  14. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

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    first do the shoulders fit or they too large? if they fit then it may be worth a try.
    look at the horizontal stripes. in the front they angle up at the center, in the side view they do the same. put this together with the front of the coat closing and pooching out.
    this means that the front is too short at the top. you cant lengthen it, so the back must shortened at the top to get the balance you need. only then can the coat be taken in .
    you have an erect posture, the coat has a stoop-ed posture. go to the search function ask for balance explained.
     
  15. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Well-Known Member

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    Thank you so much! I found and will be reading Manton's old post on balance.

    I am happy with the shoulders. As happy as I have been with a RTW at least.

    I may have to find a tailor in Chicago or Minneapolis this holiday season to get this fixed, I don't trust my local tailor with such a task.
     
  16. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    There are no tailors in Chicago.
     
  17. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
  18. MikeDT

    MikeDT Well-Known Member

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    Surely you're jesting? One of the biggest cities in the USA and there are no tailors there?

    EDIT:

    Just noticed a few posts up, a poster who goes by the handle of 'a tailor', who appears to reside in Chicago.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2011
  19. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Well-Known Member

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    Despos is also in Chicago; I believe Jeffery was joking.
     
  20. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    All three of us are in Chicago. So yes, a joke.
     
    1 person likes this.

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