The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Likes Received:
    106
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    the shortness at the top of the front will also cause the quarters to close.
     
  2. skilar

    skilar New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2009
    Location:
    IL
    

    Bespoke, bespoke, bespoke. Gotta get some.
     
  3. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

    Messages:
    8,491
    Likes Received:
    1,225
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2007
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    a philosophical question for you tailors... Im on the petit side at 5'6, 125, 37 inch chest, 30 inch waist, so not really skinny, just small. I've tried on a ton of OTR suits to try to find something that works and I've found a few that work but what I'm not sure about is which sort of 'style' would work better for me. I've found guys like Armani Collezioni, Canali 15000 body, etc are soft, rounded, and comfortable but expensive. Then I've found ones like RLBL, Z-Zegna drop 8, etc that are much more structured in the chest and shoulders. I happen to like both silouettes, and find the 'soft' ones are comfortable so I feel relaxed and at east while the 'firmer' ones are a bit more uptight but it also makes me feel more formal.

    as a tailor, do you have a preference on how you'd build a suit around that sort of body shape, or is it purely just a preference? Does the structure give me shape or make me look boxy/sharp lined? Does the soft look accentuate the small body?
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2011
  4. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

    Messages:
    2,952
    Likes Received:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2009
    

    17" drop? You dropped a digit or something
     
  5. mlongano

    mlongano Senior member

    Messages:
    303
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2010
    

    Oh man, i must be a lot fatter than I thought!!
     
  6. zerostyle

    zerostyle Senior member

    Messages:
    580
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2010
    

    To echo this, any suggestions in general for shorter/skinnier guys? I'm 5'9/150lbs with narrow shoulders and constantly find myself between sizes. (36 is too tight, 38 is too big).

    What I'm thinking so far:
    - 2 button over 3 button
    - normal to low button stance (this trendy high button stance looks ridiculous imo)
    - slightly short jacket
    - no cuffs on pants
    - 3" tie instead of 3.5-3.75"

    Sound about right?
     
  7. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

    Messages:
    8,491
    Likes Received:
    1,225
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2007
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    
    y'all be fatties.

    lol, yeah it was typo, 30 inch waist here.
     
  8. marlaypenn2

    marlaypenn2 New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2011
    TERRIFIC idea, especially for those who really care and/or really want to learn.
     
  9. Makoto Chan

    Makoto Chan Senior member

    Messages:
    624
    Likes Received:
    77
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Tokyo
    Thanks to emptym, a tailor, jeffreyd, Despos, and all others for any comments, criticisms, or suggestions you might have. I hope the pictures are adequate. What should be altered, or what should I reconsider for the next commissioned suit?

    First is a navy suit from Peter Lee:

    [​IMG]

    Second is a blazer and trousers from Peter Lee (both are wool-cashmere),

    [​IMG]

    Third is a blazer from Brooks Brothers, a 36-R and I'm not sure if it's a good fit or bad or what. Pretty sure the arms are too long. Sorry about the embarrassing butt-lump - I haven't unsewn the vent (in case I want to take it back or resell it as new).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2011
  10. tricky

    tricky Senior member

    Messages:
    3,314
    Likes Received:
    1,730
    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2008
    Location:
    Toronto
    Would love some feedback - this is my first suit and I just received it from TAT, so it still has to be pressed (I assume that will take care of the lumpy shoulders). I feel it looks ok unbuttoned but I'm not sure about the photos with the top bottom done up.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

    Messages:
    4,220
    Likes Received:
    80
    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Location:
    Santiago de Chile

    I think it the Peter Lee suits look quite good. I'm not a tailor, so I'm sure those who this thread is intended to answer questions will have better comments. BB isn't bad, but there's something funky with the upper arms. I say, return the BB. The Peter Lee is sufficient. I presume the BB would be for warmer weather. Is this right? I can't imagine a reason to own 2 blazers if they're both made from similar weight fabric/lining.

    @Tricky
    I can't really tell, but, at a glance, it seems like the shoulders are too wide and it seems to need a lot more waist suppression.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2011
  12. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,436
    Likes Received:
    338
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008
    Location:
    Rochester, NY
    

    Not enough light. See OP for a good example.
     
  13. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,436
    Likes Received:
    338
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008
    Location:
    Rochester, NY
    

    Please have someone press this (not steam) and post some photos with better lighting.
     
  14. FL_Z32

    FL_Z32 Member

    Messages:
    13
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2010
    Location:
    North Carolina
    Can a wool pea coat be tailored? I think I want to have it taken in a bit in the torso.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2011
  15. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

    Messages:
    8,491
    Likes Received:
    1,225
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2007
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    ^^^ quickest simplest fix is to just move the buttons over a bit...



    Any tailors have thoughts on my question...?
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by