The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nothing major, or posture issues except the low right shoulder but try sizing down. These look too big everywhere.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2012


  2. tossaway321

    tossaway321 Member

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    Thanks. That brings me to another thing. Those are both 40R. For me, really, the ideal RTW size tends to be a 39R for most brands. Of course, a lot of places don't carry 39... only even numbers. So I end up having a dilemma. I can either buy a 40, which feels too big in the shoulders, but doesn't pull in the buttoning area; or, I can buy a 38, which feels great in the shoulders but pulls quite a bit in the buttoning area (too tight in the waist, I assume). Is the solution to buy a 38 or 39, and then have an alterations tailor let out the waist a bit?
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    As long as the jacket has enough outlet to let out the waist, I would buy the best fit in the chest and shoulder. Which size works best for the trouser?
     


  4. tossaway321

    tossaway321 Member

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    For the trouser, typically a 33 or 34 in the waist. As far as the jacket goes, how do you tell with RTW garments whether there is any (let alone enough) fabric to let out in the waist of the jacket? And am I correct in saying that if the jacket is pulling in the buttoning point, but fits fine in the shoulders, that means that the waist is too tight?
     


  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think letting out a 38 or 39 will look better on you as long as it can be done with the outlets available. You can feel thru the lining or along the outside cloth along the seams for the edge of the outlet to see how much is there. Opening the lining and looking is also an option. The less expensive the make the less outlet. Some jackets have hardly any outlet. minimal at best.

    Pulling on the button does not mean the jacket is tight at the waist, could be the cut of the shoulders. a result of a low shoulder or your posture and the balance of the jacket.
     


  6. IsteRed

    IsteRed Senior member

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    Thank you! what about making the sleeves slimmer? and what is your comment on the suit in general?
     


  7. bnovc

    bnovc Well-Known Member

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    I bought two new shirts from ModernTailor. I'm interested in opinions.

    First, a tuxedo shirt. I think this came out well in terms of fit, but the buttons in the front are visible through the placket. I'm not sure why it came out this way, since I copied an existing shirt from MT. It seems like the best solution will probably be to have the front buttons replaced with white buttons.


    [​IMG]

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    The second shirt is a purple gingham. I think this came out pretty well. Next time I think I will get a non-spread collar if I don't plan to have it buttoned. It seems like a point collar would look better?

    Perhaps a little smaller at the waist to avoid the bulging in the second picture?


    [​IMG]

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    Thanks for any feedback!
     


  8. aw82

    aw82 Well-Known Member

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    Can I get some input on whether you would send this back for a size smaller? I'm primarily concerned by the dimples on the shoulders.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  9. Diefenbaker

    Diefenbaker New Member

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    Thank you very much, a tailor and Despos. Hopefully with your advice, I can get this to a satisfactory resolution. If you don't mind, I do have a few follow up questions. I never knew my posture was that unusual!
    Can you further explain the waistband issue? In all my lurking here, I haven't seen this issue discussed before. I guess I'll excise forward pleats in the future, though I prefer them in theory. What exactly makes them not work for me?

    Quote:
    I may have missed it, but I didn't see shortness at the top mentioned before. What symptom is this causing?

    Thanks!
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Can't see anything but black. The dimples on the sleeves are not related the jacket size
     


  11. aw82

    aw82 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, sorry. My house is dark and the on-camera flash didn't help. The suit is actually charcoal in color. I'll take some more photos during the day outside.

    If the dimples are not related to jacket size, what is the solution? It feels to me like it's a factor of the shoulder padding extending past my natural shoulder.
     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Forward pleats work best with a higher rise and someone with small hips and seat. This body type gets the best expression of regular pleats.
    This waistband is sewn equal or looser than the trouser top and the trouser looks snug through the abdomen area. Proper sewing of the waistband is when the trouser top is drawn in over the hips and the waistband pulled tight. Gives a snug fit at the waist and and creates ease over the hips. The trouser would fit better, the pleats would have a better drape.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012


  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is explained by jefferyd. It's the size/shape of the sleeve head fitting and matching the shape and size of the armhole. The armhole changes size and shape when you put the jacket on but it doesn't change in the same way on everyone. Someone with a different shape may not have this issue with the same jacket.
     


  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    please excuse me, my mistake. that was suppose to be an answer to R DIAZ not for you.
     


  15. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    R DIAZ just a thought
    if more cloth is available a new back can be cut to replace the short one.
    dont know what the cost would be. contact the m2m company..
     


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