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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Yes, I'm wondering if the collar alone can be raised so I wouldn't have to move the jacket to fix the collar gap, which would minimize or even avoid the balance problems. Probably not, but maybe worth asking...

    Here's some pictures to illustrate.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    As you can see the back is pulling upwards and lifts the lower back, causing it not to follow the contours of my body. It also pulls a bit on the fronts making it look like the coat is tight (which it is not).

    The suit is unlined cotton so I can live with rumples and imperfect drape, but I really hate how the back is lifted...

    PS. The jacket might look boxy but that's because I am boxy [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2012


  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Raising the collar won't add length to the back which is what you need. Adding cloth at the top of the shoulder lengthens the back or adding at the hem. It's the relation of the back length to the front length at the neck points that regulate front/back balance.
    The collar gap isn't showing in these pictures.
    I would have said to just reduce the back to make it lie in but you have diagonal lines that won't change if you only take in the back. The proper fix is to raise the back 3/4" and see what happens. 3/4" is about all you will get at best, if that because of limitations of outlets. Since it is unlined the hem or turn up on the back will be much smaller along the back. Your tailor may have to add a piece on the back hem. Being a cotton suit doesn't help, you will probably have a line or a crease where the old hem was on the back. If he does this alteration, he could adjust for your low right shoulder too.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2012


  3. hpk1

    hpk1 Member

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    Help!

    I posted some pictures of this MTM suit earlier and didn't get any responses. Well, here are a couple pictures that more clearly show the issue I'm having.

    There's a bump in the fabric on the top of each shoulder. I think this is because my shoulders are pushing into the front of the jacket. I've taken it to about 6 different tailors, and they've all given me different answers on what needs to be done. Some have said it's unfixable, others have said the back seam across the shoulders needs to be let out a bit. Can anyone provide me with a definitive answer of how I can fix this, if at all?

    Thanks!


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Your pictures don't reveal enough but the issues are severe enough that the fix wouldn't be worth it and the result will probably be less than 100%. Some of the issues are the make/construction, cut/fit and these are problematic to correct. You would be wise to avoid jackets that fit this way, keep looking for brands that work for you.
     


  5. djkev

    djkev New Member

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    Hi all, this is my first post, but I've been lurking for a bit. I just picked up my first MTM 3pc suit and shirt from a local clothier. I was told it was full canvas and I'm pretty happy this the results. Only issue is that I request slanted pockets, but ended up with straight pockets. Some might say sleeves are a bit long, but I think they're ok I also have working cuff so can't really take them in too much. I'm also used to longer coats, and feel that this is a bit on the sorter side, but I can live with it. photos aren't the best quality and hopefully I can get better ones soon.

    Second suit is on that I had them tailor since I lost weight and it needed to be taken in. I still love this suit as its the one I used for my wedding
    [][​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2012


  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Diefenbaker
    heres a second thought.
    if the fabric is of H Freemans in stock of woolens, they may still have more yardage of it.
    they can cut a new back that makes up for the shortness at the top. they will need the order
    number inside the coat pocket. they can look up the cutting order to see how it was cut and
    correct the problem. while they have the coat opened up you might ask them to shorten the
    coat to a better length.
    dont know who is going to get the bill, if its you, your tailor or if freeman is really free.

    wish you good luck
     


  7. LokStock

    LokStock Member

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    I posted this a few days ago but didnt get a reply. I am going back to the tailor to sort out a few things with this suit I had made. Specifically, the diagonal lines on the right shoulder blade, and the pants, as they never seem to drape smoothly, always some wrinkling and bunching. Can someone please give me any more pointers on the fit so I can have them corrected before I leave HK. I was told by one poster in another threat that the sleeves are too short, I feel they are fine and another poster agreed with me. Can anyone comment on that as well.
     


  8. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    sorry about missing you, sometimes things get a bit confusing.
    first please button your shirt collar.
    the coat length seems short, no more than an inch. unless you favor shorter.
    your description and the faint show of diagonals on the back say that you have a right low shoulder.
    but look at the front view. it says that its a left low ? see how even pictures can be misleading.
    the back view of the trousers does not show us any detail. lighting problem?

    just took another look. i think there could be just a bit more waist suppression,
    on the side body seam, thats the one hiding underneath the arm.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2012


  9. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Thanks a lot for your feedback. The collar gap isn't there because this is after I adjust the jacket a little to fix it (otherwise the short back wouldn't show in the pictures). When the tailor comes back from his vacation I'll take the jacket to him and see what he can do. If he can make the back longer that would be perfect, but if not, I hope reducing the back width helps with the flare. I guess I can live with the diagonal lines on a casual suit like this.

    The shoulders were supposedly cut with my low right shoulder in mind (I usually get ugly bumps in that shoulder with RTW that are not present with this suit). Does it look off?

    Thanks again!
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2012


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Probably need to move the front button, that's all. The back flaring is a fitting issue, other things relate to the cloth as cottons don't drape or shape the same as wool.. This looks good for a cotton suit.
     


  11. IsteRed

    IsteRed Senior member

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    I've recently got this suit, and i want to get some things altered, because my hands are not equal i want to shorten/elongate hands to make them show amount of cuff. May be get sleeves narrower? i don't have the collar bones in that's why shirt collar is not looking good, what else would you recommend to alter?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  12. lychyrychy

    lychyrychy Senior member

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    Is this a TAT suit?

     


  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Lengthen right sleeve 1/4" and shorten left 1/2" or so. Fronts are short, you need about 1" more length added at the front shoulder.
     


  14. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    hello hpk1

    yea i agree thats not acceptable. you say that 6 tailors turned you down. now here is 2 more on the web.
    they are right the job will take a great deal of time [read$$$$$] and the results are very questionable.
    even car insurance companies understand when a car is totaled.
    send the suit back to the m2m people, and ask for a refund or a new suit.
    dont forget to send them that sad picture so that they will believe you.

    good luck
    a tailor
     


  15. tossaway321

    tossaway321 Member

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