The SwissArmySuit™: a sartorial strip tease

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Mar 31, 2009.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    All of the wonderful, fanciful suggestions and theories (except for the ones that are correct...) would ruin and be incompatible with a well-constructed bespoke suit.

    - B
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    All of the wonderful, fanciful suggestions and theories (except for the ones that are correct...) would ruin and be incompatible with a well-constructed bespoke suit.

    - B


    Blah blah blah. Pictures, dammit!
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Can't you see the line forming. We will be calling crowd control soon.
     


  4. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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  5. aragon765

    aragon765 Senior member

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    http://dailyabuse.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/july_1_snooze.jpg[IMG][/I]

    +1 - awesome picture - perfectly conveys my feelings.
     


  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    +1 - awesome picture - perfectly conveys my feelings.

    I didn't understand the point of Vox's tie knot thread, so I'm very eager to understand what's going on here.
     


  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    The SwissArmySuit™ Pictorial.

    One of things that you can enjoy in these closeups is all of the delicate English handwork.

    1. Closeup of jacket in suit-mode, with navy horn buttons.

    [​IMG]

    2. The buggy (a.k.a. quarter) lining in ermazine and taped seams. You're not going to flip this sucker inside out, my friends.

    [​IMG]

    3. The right lapel flipped over, showing the interior and the MoP backing button.

    [​IMG]

    4. The fastening button removed. Now, it was a true headache to figure out the correct compromise between precise placement and removability, and how the backing buttons shoud be sized, and how to accomodate the various ways that a jacket can pull. Sounds simple, but it was not.

    [​IMG]

    5. The cuff undone.

    [​IMG]

    6. The horn cuff buttons off. Yes, double the number of handsewn buttonholes were needed, and note the two different styles, again to get as much precision in placement as possible.

    [​IMG]

    7. The horn cuff buttons and the MoP backing buttons.

    [​IMG]

    8. Look, Mum...no buttons.

    [​IMG]

    9. Holland & Sherry gilt buttons from their Gold Button Collection VII. MoP backing buttons sewn directly on the shanks.

    [​IMG]

    10. The two sets of buttons.

    [​IMG]

    11. Blazer buttons on sleeve.

    [​IMG]

    12. Buttoned through.

    [​IMG]

    13. Voila. From a very formal three piece suit to what Americans would know as a blazer.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    In addition to the navy horn and gilt sets, I have smoked MoP, brown horn, and a set of solid sterling buttons from Benson & Clegg. The latter are being hand-engraved like so:

    [​IMG]

    These are my son's initials. I plan to wear these as he grows up, and before he goes on to college (or goes into mall security,) I will have his first bespoke jacket made up and these sterling buttons attached, from father to son.

    I am elated with the results of this experiment. There will be a DB version of this in navy Lesser Golden Bale in time for the autumn.

    Rationales and discussion in the next post.

    I hope that you enjoyed my little caper.


    - B
     


  8. randallr

    randallr Senior member

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    I Am Underwhelmed.
     


  9. Sebastian

    Sebastian Senior member

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    And this is it... [​IMG]

    Pf... not quite revolutionary. [​IMG]
     


  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Very neat. But the real show-stopper is still the fit and cut of this particular suit, which stands out even against the other things Steed has made you.

    I'd love to see what it looks like with the MOP buttons facing out. The greyish shade of blue you picked would be beautiful with MOP, I think.

    But Bill, ultimately, I have three words for you: detachable patch pockets.
     


  11. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    I Am Underwhelmed.

    I concur.

    [​IMG]
     


  12. kryn13

    kryn13 Senior member

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    I like that detailing. The buildup was a bit much.
     


  13. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I Am Underwhelmed.

    And this is it... [​IMG]

    I concur.

    [​IMG]


    The buildup was a bit much.

    Is Vox's wife posting now?
     


  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I like that detailing. The buildup was a bit much.

    Yay!

    - B
     


  15. randallr

    randallr Senior member

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    It's like anal sex for the first time. At first, you are all amped up and excited. Afterwards, it was just meh.
     


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