The SwissArmySuit™: a sartorial strip tease

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Mar 31, 2009.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Ahh...where to begin?

    This is a two part strip tease...today, some photographs and comments, and on Thursday, I'll complete the details and provide more photographs illustrating how the suit operates.

    Once upon a time, Manton was getting a casual odd jacket made up in navy fresco, and instead of putting metal blazer buttons on it, he settled on brown horn. The jacket had other features to make it more casual: patch hip out pockets and swelled edges. While the jacket was being made, he had the thought that trousers in matching material could made the combination pass for a versatile suit, particularly good for travel. The Amazing BlazerSuit was born...read all about it here.

    Right around the same time that Manton posted that thread, I was thinking myself about a way to cut down on the number of things that I packed for trips. But, I wanted a wider gulf between formal and casual than what the ABS offered. An idea hatched in my mind, and I discussed it with my tailor, Edwin DeBoise of Steed. It just so happened that on that very trip, he, too, began thinking about this problem because of an experience that he had at the airport.

    Unravelling all this has taken a lot of time, effort, and experimentation. It has also taken a cutter, a tailor, and finish tailors of unusual patience and good humor. I learned that I was not the first to take this approach, but Edwin, Steed's tailor Ron Hardy, and I had no direct knowledge of how the, uhm, engineering problems had been solved in the few mythological cases of the past. Every solution had to be invented.

    I love the result. It is exactly all that I had hoped.

    So, today, here are some opening photographs. On Thursday, there will be more and we'll go into how the specifics were handled.

    The SwissArmySuit™:

    [​IMG]

    Steed (Edwin DeBoise) SB soft roll to 1 single-button bespoke three piece suit in navy Holland & Sherry 13/14oz fresco (for those of you who care, this is a model with the front cut). Double breasted shawl vest. Buggy ermazine lining. Single pleat trousers with English back.

    Closeup of the jacket, shirt, tie and square:

    [​IMG]

    Jacket open:

    [​IMG]

    Jacket without vest:

    [​IMG]

    Trouser detail...English back with no back pockets:

    [​IMG]

    Some shots of the DB vest. I love a DB vest because of how they cut straight across the front, which to my eye looks more trim.

    [​IMG]

    Just two vest pockets, with the signature DeBoise pleats going into the pockets:

    [​IMG]

    A flip of the vest lapel to show the hidden slit for a watchchain, should I decide to Sator it up:

    [​IMG]

    Can you guess what the secret is? Whether you can or cannot, stay tuned for the answers on Thursday with demonstration photographs.


    - B
     
  2. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    Don't tell me its reversable? Looks like a normal (well very nice) suit to me.
     
  3. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    Wow, that looks great.
     
  4. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Thank you for chronicling your sartorial road to ruin [​IMG] Looks like a well done suit. I am very relieved you didn't put patch pockets on this and chose a one button model. Is Steed coming to give some commentary on how he catered to your mad scientist desires?
     
  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Is Steed coming to give some commentary on how he catered to your mad scientist desires?

    He's too sensible to do that. I think that they might have put my photograph on the dartboard at the local pub in Carlisle...


    - B
     
  6. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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    Thats one great suit. I think its one of ur best ones.
     
  7. Closer

    Closer Senior member

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    looks great on you - can't wait to see what makes it a "swiss army suit"
     
  8. Chiaroscuro

    Chiaroscuro Senior member

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    Vox you're an inspiration.
     
  9. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Boxercise Toughguy

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  10. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I hope you got the extra corkscrew pocket. [​IMG]
     
  11. aragon765

    aragon765 Senior member

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    As usual with this high-level sartorial discussions, I don't really understand what I am seeing, but I like it. Interested to see what part II brings, I am think the pants double as a blazer, the coat for underwear, and the waistcoat for shorts, a la Thom Browne. Will be amazing to see....
     
  12. Philosoph

    Philosoph Senior member

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    I'm thinking the sleeves are detachable and can be transferred between the jacket and vest to go from SB to DB.
     
  13. Sebastian

    Sebastian Senior member

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    If this is the first reversible suit, Vox will be my new sartorial hero and he will remain it for a very long time... [​IMG]
     
  14. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    Vox, I frickin' love this suit. As I have said before, I personally think that you look much better donning undarted jackets, your physique supports it. The houndstooth tie, cordovan shoes and the polka-dot pocket square are a PERFECT match. I want that tie! The suit look kinda stiff in the 'jacket only' photo, makes me think something else is on the other side. but my mind boggles at how the lapels/sleeves etc would have worked. I don't think this is a reversible jacket, too clichÃ[​IMG] ... I think the secret lies in the vest. Maybe it attaches to the front in a weird way to make this a DB? Naah, that would be a Transformer™ jacket. Oh wait! Maybe the vest becomes a jacket! The longer you make me wait, the crazier my imagination is going to be. You have been warned!
     
  15. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    I'm thinking the sleeves are detachable and can be transferred between the jacket and vest to go from SB to DB.

    I thought about that ... even if the engineering is possible, there is the problem of length on the vest. So I dropped the idea. We have to think out of the box - rather out of the suit.
     

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