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The Styleforum x Archibald Sneaker GMTO

ArchibaldRoh

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I thought that the same can be done with alcohol based dyes and polish


Anticato is basically a synonim to "patina", and the proper, lasting way to do it is how its done on the video from the Elegand Oxford that CWV linked just above. If it is simply painted as a top coat, it will wear off or fade eventually

So this is exactly how they do ours... to me that looks like painting (paint brushes etc are used). If you were to put a strong adhesive tape onto that shoe and rip off some of the underlying leather will be exposed according to how the leather has absorbed the colouring.

When you say dye, I am thinking of colouring and tanning (like a CXL is done).
 

ThePetros

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To be totally honest it is what I was expecting before finding out thanks to @Njcc040b that the roo was coated and seeing it myself when we got the shoes. No biggy here and I was willing to check them out, but the experience has reaffirmed that a dyed, uncoated (we are speaking or whatever kind of acrylic or similar coating the leather has) leather is the way to go for roo.
I think that's what appeals so much about the chromexcel leather. Structurally better than something like this. Considering other offerings in this cost range, there are so many better options than the current roo.

Don't get me wrong, coatings have their purpose, but they need to be reliable. On such a soft leather it turns icky very fast. I recall something similar happening to a lambskin jacket I had years ago. One rainstorm after purchase, the leather underneath effectively shrank away from whatever coating they put on top. On more structured leather, it would be totally fine.
 

Rewiag

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So this is exactly how they do ours... to me that looks like painting (paint brushes etc are used). If you were to put a strong adhesive tape onto that shoe and rip off some of the underlying leather will be exposed according to how the leather has absorbed the colouring.

When you say dye, I am thinking of colouring and tanning (like a CXL is done).

No, dye is something that penetrates into the leather and permanently colors the leather fibers. Paint is something that sits on top of the leather and can be pulled-off by either physical force (like scraping) or chemicals. (and obviously there are many in between, and there is a lot of overlap too, like bad quality dyes that do not penetrate that well or paints that do penetrate a bit more than usual)

The picture i showed you earlier is not where I used an exceptionally strong adhesive tape. It was just a regular electrician tape, and did not rip any leather actually, only the paint that was sitting on top of it. I also used the same tape on shoes i dyed myself and it had absolutely no effect.

When using a deep dye, the leather itself what gets colored, and thus it is much harder to remove by any means (as you would need to tear off the top layer of the leather), but if it is just painted, you can rip/remove it from above the leather.
 

XxLogo

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So this is exactly how they do ours... to me that looks like painting (paint brushes etc are used). If you were to put a strong adhesive tape onto that shoe and rip off some of the underlying leather will be exposed according to how the leather has absorbed the colouring.

When you say dye, I am thinking of colouring and tanning (like a CXL is done).
I'd be up to see if adhesive tape can rip off alcohol based dyes lol
 

ArchibaldRoh

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I'd be up to see if adhesive tape can rip off alcohol based dyes lol
ill put a demo of what is happening here...it doesn't come off in hordes as such bits come of with it. I am trying to find an old used up anticato shoe picture to show how it stands time and being beaten around as well.

We had a harsher anticato-ing liquid previously but what was happening is the marbling was sometimes not so apparent and it would come out as one block of colour as the video. That isn't the effect we are going for with our anticato... it is an antiquing effect so more tea stain than all a single block of colour...we are better off getting the actual leather in that colour if the desired effect is a block of painted colour. So the dye (using the right terminology now I think) we use now is allowing for more of the patchy, marble, non perfect effect we want from these (nor I suspect the customer... as we saw with the anticato greys).
 

stephenaf2003

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@ArchibaldRoh @OrlandoMo , I see you guys have quite a lot going on, which is admittedly a good thing for your business, the reliant artisans and a view to the future for us seeing you all around to bring more great products. A question from a selfish consumer perspective, is all this activity going to negatively impact the November SF-02 delivery in November?
 

ArchibaldRoh

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@ArchibaldRoh @OrlandoMo , I see you guys have quite a lot going on, which is admittedly a good thing for your business, the reliant artisans and a view to the future for us seeing you all around to bring more great products. A question from a selfish consumer perspective, is all this activity going to negatively impact the November SF-02 delivery in November?
So great question and we are actually getting feedback re delays given the past two weeks and will be announcing any news by Monday just confirming things. The delays are looking like 2 weeks i suspect... but a bigger thing happened yesterday and it is to do with the white veg tan. It isn't confirmed and we CAN deliver it with the rest but something within me wants to make a decision to delay the white/white. I am just collating thoughts and will share on Monday. I suspect it may lead to some cancellations and that is ok but we promised that we were making the ultimate sneaker and failed once and were further humbled by Rose Anvil's competition with the Goyal ones (his opinion but still). So want to hit back with these and im supremely confident in all the leathers except the st crispins white veg tan we were relying on was released recently (last week) and well its just not white. This made us double back and choose the option from Italy which I would like to put through its paces more.

A white veg tan is just not so easy to find. If it is there it is mor eoften than not a sub par skin so getting something carefully done that is white white from a tannery making to the quality or level of world's best is tough
 
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stephenaf2003

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Staxxx1

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stephenaf2003

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Thank you, it was a bit rough since it was my first, but it got my point across. Couldn't find a single other similar review for their dress shoes so figured I would make one
Yeah, looks like they still have some work to do to get to the refinement they’re after. Nice effort for the naked price. I’d want them to be better for the full price though.
 

Devis4u

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Yeah, looks like they still have some work to do to get to the refinement they’re after. Nice effort for the naked price. I’d want them to be better for the full price though.
I think for the naked price point and quality of construction/materials, plus customer service, they are a very strong contender. You're right though, there are some small things that would go a long way that they could change. I'm happy to share more of my experience with these shoes as they wear in. Ultimately, I'm pretty happy with them so far
 

Cheshire symposium

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I think for the naked price point and quality of construction/materials, plus customer service, they are a very strong contender. You're right though, there are some small things that would go a long way that they could change. I'm happy to share more of my experience with these shoes as they wear in. Ultimately, I'm pretty happy with them so far
I strongly agree with this; construction, quality of materials, customer service/ethos, and price, are all at a high level. I do think that the finishing/QC of their dress shoes needs to be improved, if they want to go to the next level.
 

OrlandoMo

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GAT Sneakers almost ready... coming to London next week! Video here too

IMG_4716 (1).jpeg
 

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