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The Styleforum x Archibald Sneaker GMTO

Njcc040b

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I had the idea that coated leather and good leather were not compatible terms. I got this idea from the shoe snob
Definitely depends. I've had very good Allen Edmonds shoes made with Horween leather that had a coating. Not sure if it was applied at Horween or at AE. But you're right that many sneaker brands hide crappy leather with coatings. Or they use coating to get hues that are impossible with dye. You cannot get white leather via dyes, for example.
 

CWV

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Definitely depends. I've had very good Allen Edmonds shoes made with Horween leather that had a coating. Not sure if it was applied at Horween or at AE. But you're right that many sneaker brands hide crappy leather with coatings. Or they use coating to get hues that are impossible with dye. You cannot get white leather via dyes, for example.
Thanks for the answere. And can coated leather be conditioned? I understand that it can not
 

Njcc040b

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Thanks for the answere. And can coated leather be conditioned? I understand that it can not
I've never heard of a permeable coating or pigment layer, no. In fact, new oils or moisture could delaminate the coating. I think this is why we saw the picture a few posts back of delamination after the shoes got wet. There must have been a crack or pinhole that allowed in moisture or some type of outside substance and weakened the bond. Only way to fix is to get some Angelus and repaint.
 

CWV

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I've never heard of a permeable coating or pigment layer, no. In fact, new oils or moisture could delaminate the coating. I think this is why we saw the picture a few posts back of delamination after the shoes got wet. There must have been a crack or pinhole that allowed in moisture or some type of outside substance and weakened the bond. Only way to fix is to get some Angelus and repaint.
And is Ngelus also a paint coating or dye?
 

EgoCamisas

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I've never heard of a permeable coating or pigment layer, no. In fact, new oils or moisture could delaminate the coating. I think this is why we saw the picture a few posts back of delamination after the shoes got wet. There must have been a crack or pinhole that allowed in moisture or some type of outside substance and weakened the bond. Only way to fix is to get some Angelus and repaint.
... or strip the darn coating and let the leather breath!
 

Rewiag

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Anticato Calf also has some coat instead of dye i believe. This was something I discussed with @OrlandoMo speratedly and i think they fed it back to the manufacturer and were looking for a more permanent, penetrating dye option?
 

OrlandoMo

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Anticato Calf also has some coat instead of dye i believe. This was something I discussed with @OrlandoMo speratedly and i think they fed it back to the manufacturer and were looking for a more permanent, penetrating dye option?
to an extent though, we don't want to use too aggressive dyes that could ruin the leather. We are testing new dyes at the moment and new coating for the kangaroo, let's see what comes out
 

EgoCamisas

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to an extent though, we don't want to use too aggressive dyes that could ruin the leather. We are testing new dyes at the moment and new coating for the kangaroo, let's see what comes out
Does the roo really need a coating? Is there no way to get uncoated, dyed roo leather from the tannery? AFAIK it's what RM Williams does but I don't really know, I have never owned a pair of them in kangaroo.
 
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ArchibaldRoh

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Anticato Calf also has some coat instead of dye i believe. This was something I discussed with @OrlandoMo speratedly and i think they fed it back to the manufacturer and were looking for a more permanent, penetrating dye option?
Anticato by definition is a hand painted effect so it is a coating. Start with crust and each shoe is individually painted with the anticato colouring.
 

CWV

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Anticato by definition is a hand painted effect so it is a coating. Start with crust and each shoe is individually painted with the anticato colouring.
I thought that the same can be done with alcohol based dyes and polish
 

ThePetros

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Does the roo really need a coating? Is there no way to get uncoated, dyed roo leather from the tannery? AFAIK it's what RM Williams does but I don't really know, I have never own a pair of them in kangaroo.
I'd definitely be interested in this. Full grain dyed leather seems the better way to go on something like this.
 

EgoCamisas

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I'd definitely be interested in this. Full grain dyed leather seems the better way to go on something like this.
To be totally honest it is what I was expecting before finding out thanks to @Njcc040b that the roo was coated and seeing it myself when we got the shoes. No biggy here and I was willing to check them out, but the experience has reaffirmed that a dyed, uncoated (we are speaking or whatever kind of acrylic or similar coating the leather has) leather is the way to go for roo.
 

Rewiag

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Anticato by definition is a hand painted effect so it is a coating. Start with crust and each shoe is individually painted with the anticato colouring.
Anticato is basically a synonim to "patina", and the proper, lasting way to do it is how its done on the video from the Elegand Oxford that CWV linked just above. If it is simply painted as a top coat, it will wear off or fade eventually
 

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