The Styleforum x Archibald Hand-Welted Dress Shoes GMTO

[JohnMRobie]

so that strip is there to close the gap beneath it. I guess we could remove it but its an aesthetic choice made.

Could you show me a picture of something you consider to be closed as a genuine wholecut Chelsea? I can get it in as a customization maybe.

Yes - wholecut = 1 piece of leather for the entirety of the shoe so the strip closing the gap is exactly what makes it not a wholecut.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

so that strip is there to close the gap beneath it. I guess we could remove it but its an aesthetic choice made.

Could you show me a picture of something you consider to be closed as a genuine wholecut Chelsea? I can get it in as a customization maybe.

Aesthetically, it's probably not worth the effort to make this a "genuine wholecut" for the purists. With pants on it looks the same anyway since your Chelsea is already featureless on the front end. Wholecut vs. Not-Wholecut is a more practical argument with shoes that have laces or straps on the front as you have to sort out how to build the vamp seamlessly.

Besides, if we want to be reeeeaaaally obnoxious about it, there are true true wholecut shoes (probably not boots) that don't even have the back seam at all, just a continuous piece of leather, but obsessing over those details is the road to ruin.

 

[dukenukem4ever]

Haha... I only meant to state my opinion. Anyway, the bigger thing that stands out to me is the toe, just too bulbous. G&G DG70 toe cap would be more up my alley.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Haha... I only meant to state my opinion. Anyway, the bigger thing that stands out to me is the toe, just too bulbous. G&G DG70 toe cap would be more up my alley.

Yah no no I get it; technically you're right. I'm just practical and would just rather have these babies in hand sooner rather than wait for them to do another cycle of revision.

 

[Noblekostas]

Those Chelsea boots look nice! Personally, I feel that the toe is a bit bulbous + the heel cup is attached with a separate strip of leather and so it's not a wholecut (well from my perspective I don't see it as a wholecut) but otherwise, nice shoes!

You are referring to a seamless wholecut I suppose.

The price difference for that would be astronomical.

 

[dukenukem4ever]

You are referring to a seamless wholecut I suppose.

The price difference for that would be astronomical.

I don't think a seamless one would be necessary, but something like the RM Williams or even GG Burnham (single line of stitching down the heel) would aesthetically look better. I have some John Lobbs with a seamless heel and they're nice to look at personally but no one else will ever notice unless you have weirdos crawling on the floor checking everyone's heels.

 

[Noblekostas]

I don't think a seamless one would be necessary, but something like the RM Williams or even GG Burnham (single line of stitching down the heel) would aesthetically look better. I have some John Lobbs with a seamless heel and they're nice to look at personally but no one else will ever notice unless you have weirdos crawling on the floor checking everyone's heels.

I see what you mean. I have one pair of actual seamless (needs a new patina) and the cost was almost $600 more. A discreet backseam might be nice as long as it has no effect structurally.

Meccariello won't do that anymore, Carmina also stopped on Shell Chelseas

 

[clee1982]

I thought someone on the AM thread showed a wholecut seamless shell cordovan chelsea, though that was probably Aurum rather than Argentum handwelt line.

 

[JohnMRobie]

I see what you mean. I have one pair of actual seamless (needs a new patina) and the cost was almost $600 more. A discreet backseam might be nice as long as it has no effect structurally.

Meccariello won't do that anymore, Carmina also stopped on Shell Chelseas

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Yes - I'd say wholecut chelsea (ie RMW, Carmina, etc) vs seamless whole cut vs this which has an extra superfluous strip of shell added at the back

 

[ArchibaldRoh]

Im learning so much . Thanks guys.

 

[clee1982]

I thought someone on the AM thread showed a wholecut seamless shell cordovan chelsea, though that was probably Aurum rather than Argentum handwelt line.

found it, think it's actually Argentum

 

[ArchibaldRoh]

found it, think it's actually Argentum

Edit: Found out how

 

[JohnMRobie]

found it, think it's actually Argentum

Antonio remains a magician. Those are @shirtingfantasy’s right?

 

[clee1982]

Antonio remains a magician. Those are @shirtingfantasy’s right?

yup I think those are @shirtingfantasy, though just double checked, got to make a correction, NOT seamless heel, horse butt is not big enough to do that apparently

 

[stephenaf2003]

found it, think it's actually Argentum

Are those actually seamless? If so it’s odd that he doesn’t photograph the back to show they’re seamless, given it would be quite special since virtually no one makes a seamless one. I actually don’t know of any maker currently doing one, in this proposed price range.