The Styleforum x Archibald Hand-Welted Dress Shoes GMTO

[Potatoe]

I think grain leather is the big sell right now.

Big fan of the model below.

 

[archipel]

I think you should reconsider the last. I have 003 and 001 and I think 003 is much better for a boot. But I also think less people have experience with it.

 

[ArchibaldRoh]

I think you should reconsider the last. I have 003 and 001 and I think 003 is much better for a boot. But I also think less people have experience with it.

So the 003 is ACTUALLY a higher version of the 002.

The 008 which we are proposing for this will have the squared toe front and the relevant adjustments to be a boot last.

 

[archipel]

So the 003 is ACTUALLY a higher version of the 002.

The 008 which we are proposing for this will have the squared toe front and the relevant adjustments to be a boot last.

Are you sure? I have the captoes (001) and Chelsea's (003) and the last look the same, I might even say that the 003 are a tiny bit wider. When I look at pictures of the 002 last, it seems more pointy and less wide than the 001 last.

 

[ArchibaldRoh]

Wholecut Shellseas - Horween Shell Cordovan

 

[yshin10]

Beautiful!! Rohan, how much are they gonna run at Naked for US customers? These look beautiful. I CANNOT find any chelsea's with shell cordovan so this is definitely special in the marketplace!

 

[Devis4u]

Wholecut Shellseas - Horween Shell Cordovan


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There goes my bonus ?

 

[ArchibaldRoh]

So given we were gradually shutting down Naked... I am not sure.. but we could sort of go out with a bang!

I will work it out and we go live with pre-orders in the next days.

I think let call these the HW-02

Then Jumper can be HW-03? What do you guys think?

 

[dukenukem4ever]

Those Chelsea boots look nice! Personally, I feel that the toe is a bit bulbous + the heel cup is attached with a separate strip of leather and so it's not a wholecut (well from my perspective I don't see it as a wholecut) but otherwise, nice shoes!

 

[Proleet]

Beautiful!! Rohan, how much are they gonna run at Naked for US customers? These look beautiful. I CANNOT find any chelsea's with shell cordovan so this is definitely special in the marketplace!

a lot of brands stopped offering them as they were breaking too much Hide to make a pair afaik so yes definitely special.

 

[yshin10]

a lot of brands stopped offering them as they were breaking too much Hide to make a pair afaik so yes definitely special.

When you say breaking too much hide? What do you mean?

 

[clee1982]

Yield problem, x out of 10 would break during lasting, so have to throw out (Carmina said that? Ie harder for them to price right given sometimes have to build more margin when things break)

 

[ArchibaldRoh]

Those Chelsea boots look nice! Personally, I feel that the toe is a bit bulbous + the heel cup is attached with a separate strip of leather and so it's not a wholecut (well from my perspective I don't see it as a wholecut) but otherwise, nice shoes!

so that strip is there to close the gap beneath it. I guess we could remove it but its an aesthetic choice made.

Could you show me a picture of something you consider to be closed as a genuine wholecut Chelsea? I can get it in as a customization maybe.

 

[EgoCamisas]

so that strip is there to close the gap beneath it. I guess we could remove it but its an aesthetic choice made.

Could you show me a picture of something you consider to be closed as a genuine wholecut Chelsea? I can get it in as a customization maybe.

I might be wrong, but I am guessing he means something like RM Williams:

a lot of brands stopped offering them as they were breaking too much Hide to make a pair afaik so yes definitely special.

Shell is a durable material if we consider scratches and so, but its tensile strength sucks big time. It's common for artisans to break or ruin shell when pulling it over a last, for example. This is a big problem for wholecut constructions, since you don't have any stitches anywhere that actually work as a relief.

At least this is the way I always understood shell

 

[dukenukem4ever]

I might be wrong, but I am guessing he means something like RM Williams:

Shell is a durable material if we consider scratches and so, but it's tensile strength sucks big time. It's common for artisans to break or ruin shell when pulling it over a last, for example. This is a big problem for wholecut constructions, since you don't have any stitches anywhere that actually work as a relief.

At least this is the way I always understood shell

Yup, something like the RM Williams chelseas, or Gaziano Girling wholecut chelsea. But none of these are in cordovan so I can understand if that strip is absolutely required for longevity purposes.