The Styleforum x Archibald Hand-Welted Dress Shoes GMTO

[CWV]

Also, what do you think about the back of the shoe? the stitching and the shape

Could you post a picture from behind?
Whit what I can see it seems that the heel is quite close to the shoe giving it the needed sleekness.
I don’t know if it is an option or even if it would look good or if it would be too much. But what about if the heel slightly followed the curve of the back? just an idea

 

[OrlandoMo]

Could you post a picture from behind?
Whit what I can see it seems that the heel is quite close to the shoe giving it the needed sleekness.
I don’t know if it is an option or even if it would look good or if it would be too much. But what about if the heel slightly followed the curve of the back? just an idea

we were planning on making the “strap” slightly smaller, what do you think?

 

[EgoCamisas]

we were planning on making the “strap” slightly smaller, what do you think?

View attachment 1381004

The shoes look beautiful. Now, to comment on precise aspects:
- The last is lovely but I wouldn't mind if it were a bit more elongated. Still, I know how difficult it is to change such a thing and the current one looks good, nothing really wrong with it and probably a matter of personal taste.

- The back strap looks a bit clunky to me. Maybe if it's shape weren't a square and the lower edge would taper towards the upper one with a curve it could look better? Sorry, I know maybe I am not explaining myself that well but I don't find better words... I might draw it if you find the explanation poor.

 

[bsarosi]

(Note: suggestions aren’t just my opinion only and are by no means expert, just personal taste)

I concur with a more elongated or chiseled last adjustment in the toebox. If a round toe is preferred, maybe a little more pointed then currently as it looks a little bulbous. Can’t really tell from the photos but curious to see how voluminous the instep and vamp is...that may be contributing to the bulbous look for me.

Agree with above poster on strap - it’s a little too large. Curved would make them look a little more elegant IMO.

 

[Cheshire symposium]

I am broadly happy with the other aspects of the shoe but I do think that the strap lacks elegance.

 

[doofalb]

+1 for the more elongated or chiseled toebox

Sorry to say that, and it is of course only opinion, but the strap in it's present form totally destroys the elegance of shoe. Looks like an afterthought. Again, sorry to be so blunt.

But overall, I think the shoe looks great and I can't wait to see the final version and the leather options.

 

[OrlandoMo]

Yes I totally agree with all of you about the straps, we must change it. Should we keep the squared shape or go with a more rounded strap? Any example would be very helpful

 

[EgoCamisas]

Yes I totally agree with all of you about the straps, we must change it. Should we keep the squared shape or go with a more rounded strap? Any example would be very helpful

I imagined something classic, like this slightly tapered strap by C&J (courtesy of pocket.co.uk). But it's just an idea, finding pictures of back straps is not as easy as I imagined hehe. Maybe tomorrow with better light I can go through my shoes and see if I find something that gives a better idea, but this should do it, even if it can also be a bit wider, I wouldn't mind.

 

[stephenaf2003]

I love the way the shoe looks as is, with the exception of the back as many have said. It really destroys an otherwise fabulously executed wholecut. IMO it needs to be smaller, and the shape is not well conceived, something not square I think. Other than that, I think you’ve nailed everything else, I especially like the shape, and width of the toe box. i don’t concur with making it more elongated, it looks really good as is to me.

 

[OrlandoMo]

Yes, 100% we have to change the back strap. Should we keep it straight (but smaller) or make it rounded?

 

[flx]

I'd personally prefer the straight and smaller option but both are miles better than the original one and I also like the rounded.

 

[OrlandoMo]

In the meantime... Horween samples coming in, we might do all of them for the HW-1

 

[CWV]

Any chance of elongating the toe shape? Just to know and manage expectatives

 

[OrlandoMo]

Any chance of elongating the toe shape? Just to know and manage expectatives

we're having a chat with the craftsman, we might go for a chiseled toe box... not sure about elongating the toe shape

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

+1 for chiseling the front a bit. Right now from the angles you showed, the toe has a bit of a blobby flair to it that would work for a brogue but looks a bit mismatched against the overall sleekness of a wholecut. EDIT: For an example of something that I think works well, look up Carmina's wholecut on the Rain last.

Re: the back seam, might I suggest no seam at all? It's a nice little feature that I think really completes a wholecut. It's rare because of the craftsmanship involved, but it sounds like you guys might have the skills to make it happen?