The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

[Daniel Hakimi]

I'd love to see Black Lapel here -- mainline and Savoy line.

Mainline is half canvassed. Mine is filarte wool, bemberg lining, horn buttons, everything functional, nice buttonholes. Upper 2, easy.

I don't know too much about the savoy line except that it's fully canvassed, has nicer fabrics, and has milanese loops. Maybe comparable to SuitSupply MTM.

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

By the way, can somebody explain to me how this thread is organized? I have a link to the spreadsheet, which I found on reddit... But I can't find the spreadsheet anywhere in the thread about the spreadsheet. What's up with that?

 

[smittycl]

The list was interesting to me years ago but is a bit lost now I think. Not an exact science anyways. I stopped reading it after this version:

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...ical-suit-quality-list-sfwhsql.140387/page-84

 

[Ebitdaddy]

By the way, can somebody explain to me how this thread is organized? I have a link to the spreadsheet, which I found on reddit... But I can't find the spreadsheet anywhere in the thread about the spreadsheet. What's up with that?

It's out of date.

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

It's out of date.

This one is? Or the thread? Or what? Should somebody make a new thread, start it with a link to a new spreadsheet, invite other people to manage that spreadsheet, and keep it up to date?

I get that that's not easy, but... that's what we'd need, right?

 

[Ebitdaddy]

This one is? Or the thread? Or what? Should somebody make a new thread, start it with a link to a new spreadsheet, invite other people to manage that spreadsheet, and keep it up to date?

I get that that's not easy, but... that's what we'd need, right?

Yeah that's out of date. The poster above a bit ago pointed out the Borrelli stuff is not even close to what it used to be for example.

 

[Guizp]

Hello,
Does anyone have info on solito RTW (quality,maker) ?

Thank you very much

 

[Occy]

Hi Guys,

I made the excel hierarchy list (about 25 pages back) collating a lot of the information and making a lot of updates.
I've had a few people request access to edit the list which is great! Please don't use your work email addresses to request access as it will likely be declined automatically due to the restrictions on work emails (pwc guys looking at you!).
If anyone wants to read the last 25 pages and update the list OR provide me some of the changes (changes the majority agrees upon), I'd be happy to make the updates.

If you don't know how to request access to edit the sheet, post here or pm me your email address and I will add you.

Fortunately Google Sheets has version control so if someone goes rogue on the spreadsheet please call it out and we can roll it back. However opening this up to the general public, given the sheer number of views this sheet gets from reddit/google would be a big risk to quality control.

 

[coloRLOw]

can anyone comment on the quality of 'Sartoria Castangia Platinum Collection' ? are they used more handwork or just update the fabric compared to the normal S.C. line?

(want to check some details of castangia lines and find this on ebay)

update

quote from Sartoriale affiliate thread

Sartoria Castangia was always renowned because its impeccable craftsmanship. With the exception of their completely unlined pieces, all the coats feature full canvas construction, handmade collars and hand attached linings. The Platinium range costists of their finest creations with even more handmade details inside. This not just results in beautiful garments but a great fit off the rack.

 

[sartoriale]

update

quote from Sartoriale affiliate thread

Sartoria Castangia was always renowned because its impeccable craftsmanship. With the exception of their completely unlined pieces, all the coats feature full canvas construction, handmade collars and hand attached linings. The Platinium range costists of their finest creations with even more handmade details inside. This not just results in beautiful garments but a great fit off the rack.

Platinum Collection. slightly more handwork+Exclusive fabrics. we have seen some MTM, MTO pieces with this label.

Castangia 1850 label, is lesser quality (still great garments).

Giovanni Castangia is on par with Sartoria Castangia, as far as quality goes.

 

[coloRLOw]

Platinum Collection. slightly more handwork+Exclusive fabrics. we have seen some MTM, MTO pieces with this label.

Castangia 1850 label, is lesser quality (still great garments).

Giaovanni Castangia is on par with Sartoria Castangia, as far as quality goes.

glad to know that, many thanks!

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

It appears that the spreadsheet I linked is being updated... The Black Lapel stuff is new at least...

So, does anybody know who's updating it, or what the standards are, or where it is being discussed, if anywhere?

 

[1pete]

update

quote from Sartoriale affiliate thread

Sartoria Castangia was always renowned because its impeccable craftsmanship. With the exception of their completely unlined pieces, all the coats feature full canvas construction, handmade collars and hand attached linings. The Platinium range costists of their finest creations with even more handmade details inside. This not just results in beautiful garments but a great fit off the rack.

I've seen a couple of these jackets at my local Off 5th. The fabrics are great and they have a lot of handwork (hand sewn button holes, etc). If they ever come down from their "discounted" $2K price tags I would love to pick one up.

 

[sartoriale]

I've seen a couple of these jackets at my local Off 5th. The fabrics are great and they have a lot of handwork (hand sewn button holes, etc). If they ever come down from their "discounted" $2K price tags I would love to pick one up.

You can pick one up at our store

 

[JChong8]

So from reading through this entire thread, I'm still pretty confused as to where to rank Giorgio Armani Black Label sports coats. At one point, there were a few people saying it's all fused and made by Vestimenta, but then others have chimed in and said that's not always true. Furthermore, they mentioned that Armani actually now does a majority of it's black label line in house.

I found a brand new black label sport coat that is fully lined and is half canvased. I only paid $100 for it so it didn't break the bank in any way, but I'm still curious as to the quality overall.